Places to visit in Hong Kong's 'unexplored' Northern destination Sha Tau Kok
HONG KONG — Sha Tau Kok, the last undiscovered, unexplored and unheard-of spot even by the most ardent of Hong Kong habitues, has slowly opened to the world.
Designated as part of the Frontier Closed Area in 1951 and with only individuals having a closed-area permit granted access to it, Sha Tau Kok is gradually welcoming non-residents. The first phase of its opening began in June 2023, and the second phase opened this January.
Located in Hong Kong’s North District and right next to Shenzhen’s Yantian District, Sha Tau Kok has become a great choice for weekend getaways with its Instagrammable attractions, such as its postcard-perfect scenery, local delicacies and cultural landmarks.
Starting December 2023, Hong Kong residents and overseas visitors can apply for a Tourism Closed Area Permit through the online platform of the Hong Kong Police Force. All applications, though, must be submitted three working days before the day of visit in a first-come, first-served basis.
Visitors can board a kaito ferry to explore Sha Tau Kok. They can also take a ferry to nearby islands such as Lai Chi Wo, Kat O, Ap Chau and the Hong Kong UNESCO Global Geopark.
Legend has it that Sha Tau Kok’s name originated from a poem written by a Qing dynasty minister: "The sun rises from the beach (Sha Tau), / the moon hangs above the cape (Kok)."
In the middle of last year, the Hong Kong Tourism Board invited media persons from Malaysia, Singapore and the Philippines to a tour of this mysterious border town.
Besides the Salmon Houses, and old fire station and post office with a drop box with an insignia of Queen Elizabeth II, there are several eye-catching attractions:
Shun Ping Street Murals
Located near the old fire station, its name connotes “good luck” and “wellbeing.” There are murals depicting the deity-thanking ceremony, a traditional cultural event in the town, and the dragon boat dance performed by Hoklo women.
Chung Ying Street Garden and Viewing Deck
A street inscription about this intriguing area reads:
“The geographical location of Chung Ying Street is of particular significance as it straddles the boundary. During the early days of Mainland China’s reform and opening-up, demand for supplies in the Mainland was huge. Many Hong Kong merchants set up stores at Chung Ying Street to sell local goods to Mainland customers. For many years, due to security reasons, only holders of Closed Area Permits who have residential, living or working needs to enter Chung Ying Street are allowed access.
“To others in Hong Kong, Chung Ying Street remains a place of history and mystery. Located in front of the Chung Ying Street Checkpoint, the Chung Ying Street Garden offers a full view of the mysterious street from the viewing deck. Visitors can also find a life-size locomotive model against the walls of a retro railway station model, and make wishes by hanging wishing plaques on the viewing deck’s railings.”
Sun and Moon Pavilion
“Nestled at the corner of the bay, this is the perfect place to take in the breathtaking scenery. Here, you can enjoy the first ray of dawn in the morning and relish the arcadia of woods and waters of the bay, or bask in the golden sunset. As night falls, the moon illuminates the waters in a tranquil ambience.”
Starling Inlet — the Mirror in the Sea
A brief history of how the majestic, panoramic scenery came to be:
“In the 1960s, the Sha Tau Kok typhoon shelter was where Hoklo and other boat dwellers docked their fishing boats. However, when Typhoon Wanda hit Hong Kong in 1962, most of the fishing boats were destroyed. The fishermen therefore moved inshore and built stilt houses, which gradually formed a large squatter area.
“In 1985, the government launched the redevelopment of Sha Tau Kok with rural public housing. Three years later, the squatter occupants were relocated to the new housing estate and the stilt houses became history. Throughout the years, Starling Inlet has acted like a large natural mirror, reflecting both the former stilt houses and the small fishing boats of today, offering a glimpse into the evolving scenery through the decades.”
Fish Lantern Square
Despite its modest size, Sha Tau Kok has a rich cultural legacy. The Sha Tau Kok fish lantern dance, originating from the Wu family of the Hakka clan in Shalanxia Village during the early Qing dynasty, has a history of more than 300 years and was listed as a national intangible cultural heritage in 2008.
Mimicking the movements of fish, the dance demonstrates the Hakka people’s custom of worshipping Tin Hau. Accompanied by gong and drum music, dancers perform holding candle-lit fish lanterns to bring the underwater world to life. At the Fish Lantern Square by the waterfront, visitors can get a glimpse of the dance through colorful installations, alongside the town’s mascots Enggie Pup and Arttie Kitty.
Sha Tau Kok Pier
The longest pier in Hong Kong, built in the 1960s, lies in Sha Tau Kok. Measuring 280 meters in length and is only 20 to 30 minutes away from Kat O and Ap Chau by ferry, the pier extends into the deeper part of and halfway out in the sea to allow vessels to berth more easily.
How to get there
As per the Hong Kong Tourism Board, this is your best way to visit Sha Tau Kok after getting the Tourism Closed Area Permit. Individual travelers must use public transportation to enter Sha Tau Kok and are not allowed to drive there on their own.
1. Take bus 78S (Express departures) from MTR Sheung Shui Station, or 78K from MTR Sheung Shui/Fanling Station; or
2. Take minibus 55K from MTR Sheung Shui Station; or
3. Take bus 277A from MTR Lam Tin Station; or
4. Take the kaito ferry from either Lai Chi Wo Pier, Ap Chau Pier or Kat O Pier.
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