MANILA, Philippines - “Though it frequently rains – probably more than any other city here – we are confident that there will be a window of sunshine on your visit,” our gracious hosts Daphne and Geoffrey assured us.
Situated in the northeastern part of Taiwan, approximately 30 kilometers from its capital city Taipei, Keelung is the country’s second largest seaport, after Kaohsiung. Known as the Rainy Port for the frequent drizzles, it forms a part of the Taipei-Keelung metropolitan area and, as such, is a frequent destination for locals, with foreign holidaymakers only recently discovering it.
To kick off our day in Keelung, we headed to the Chung Cheng Park, home to a 25-meter sculpture of Guanyin, the Goddess of Mercy – with huge lion-esque figures on guard – considered to be the tallest in Southeast Asia. Firm believers of one of the most-loved deities of the Buddhist divinity preach that she possesses miraculous powers, assisting those who seek intercession. It is further accepted that when a devotee passes on, the soul is placed in the heart of the lotus, and is then ferried to the pure land of Sukhavati.
Surrounding the sculpture were several other Buddha figures in playful poses.
We then made a quick stopover on Jinshui Road, at the Gold Waterfall, a shallow but wide land mass which is said to glow a golden shimmer whenever there was as little as a light drizzle. Through chemical reactions, acidic water comes out of the hilly area in a yellow-brown color, which makes it look like it is gilded.
What next caught our eye was a seemingly Japanese building called the First Guest House, also known as the Jinguashi Crown Prince Chalet, which was constructed as a travel lodge for the royal in 1923. The wooden structure, hailed as a historical site in 2007, hints of Japanese influences and local preservation efforts.
From a distance, we noticed rooms complete with props for a hearty dinner, as well as a recreation area for a game of checkers.
As the entrances were sealed, we merely caught glimpses into the master’s bedroom of the crown prince, a spacious two-part resting area separated by a pillar, which is appropriated with the best scenery throughout all the four seasons.
We decided to explore the exteriors of the mini-palace, and stumbled into a modern entertainment area, with an archery field and mini-golf course, a prime example of Westernization.
In the overlooking garden, there is a 100-year-old Snow Bell tree, which is said to bloom white flowers that fall like snow whenever the wind blows.
On our leisurely walk, we bumped into a curious sculpture called the Gold Carrying Beast. The four-legged animal is said to be covered with coin-like scales, which gleam like metal under the sun. Rumor has it that the mythical creature only shows itself to people who shower others with kindness. You may attempt to touch it and, if lucky enough, it will lead you to the place where golden treasures await.
What followed was the Benshan Fifth Tunnel, a divergent burrow which served as the premier mining site. Unprepared though we all were, we took the challenge to wear our hard hats, read the do’s and don’ts, recited the catchy lyrics of the Safety Song and descended into the depths of the underpass, where we discovered various life-sized dioramas of workers who toiled the underground. Throughout the twists and turns of the lair, there were descriptions on the activities of the miners, as well as history of the company which started it all.
We were told of the taboos inside the subway: nobody was allowed to whistle, for it is said to disturb communications. Women were not allowed inside the tunnels then, due to unexplainable rules of olden times. Finally, it totally creeped us out when we discovered that the word “snake” must never be mentioned anywhere near or inside the premises, because it was an omen that mining would begin well, but would eventually end up badly, with not even an ounce of gold dug out.
As Aurum was the common theme for the day, we finally made it to the Gold Museum, an eco-friendly venue which combines community-generated power while preserving natural resources.
Our jaws dropped and eyes popped at the sight before us. Shining pieces of jewelry as well as art work with tinges and dashes of gold make up much of the expanse, which gave off a luxurious vibe. King Midas would have been at home here.
Not to be missed is the Giant Gold Piece, which holds the world record for being the largest ever – a whopping 220 kilograms. To taunt visitors, a sign next to it says: “If you can lift me, carry me home!” We tried, oh how we tried, but alas! we failed.
We were then whisked into the old street of Juifen, actually an alley of flea markets bursting with unusual finds, stores lined with dresses, shoes and bags, flanked on both sides by a plethora of stalls of rare dishes and exotic fare, familiar snacks and local delicacies – but there was no stopping for a quick bargain for unique items nor a taste here or there, for time was of the essence. We rushed though the very narrow lane, avoiding any temptation, or we would lose our reservation.
We slowly climbed up the steps to the row of restaurants atop mountains and settled inside the homey Amei Tea House, a quaint foodie destination situated atop the heights of the locality. We feasted on dumplings, duck and other Taiwanese specialties and, as a bonus, enjoyed the vista, which overlooked the sea, the city and its environs.
When food should have been farthest from our minds right after the hearty meal, we nevertheless loaded up on curious desserts and savory treats as pasalubongs on our way down.
We made it to the airport tired, exhausted, but content – each one of us busy reviewing photos of the day, as we recalled the goddess, the hamlet of the crown prince and its peaceful surroundings and the surreal mountain village, which made the whole day seem so much like a dream, yet it was all too real. Photos by EDU JARQUE