Bukidnon: Memories and thrills

MANILA, Philippines – Bukidnon then and now has changed so much, and yet has somehow remained the same. During my youth, summers were spent either on the beach among coconut trees in Leyte or with the cattle and local cowboys in the open fields of Bukidnon.

I remember the low-lying fog in the deep mountain valleys, rolling hills and some plateaus, blooming orchids on monumental trees just waiting to be picked and brought home, wild boars and mountain deer peeping through the thick dense forests and flowing rivers with crystal clear water that could quench a thirst.

Childhood flashbacks include meeting members of the indigenous Manobo tribe, led by our Lumad friend only known as Loloy, who loved bartering plants and flowers for tobacco and salt, horses and cows freely grazing in the pastures and plantations of pineapple and sugarcane as far as the eye could see.

A recent long weekend found us in the region. And guess what – for those who were unable to get a whiff of its golden age, a blast from the past is waiting as you may still get a feel and taste of the same old Bukidnon we have grown to appreciate and love.

For the brave, the Dahilayan Adventure Park will leave you exhilarated with its extreme rides – ziplines and drops of various heights, lengths and speeds perched on top of lush timberlands wherein the man-made, nature-friendly installments all coexist perfectly amidst its natural surroundings.

“We have multiple attractions for the whole family,” says operations manager Ravi Victorio, the Manila-born-and-bred former commercial model who has settled there. “From simple trails to expeditions that get your adrenaline-pumping, we have it all.”

“If you can’t muster enough courage to get a full-blown zoom through the greenery, you can try the specially-constructed 320MT + 150 MT Cable, which gives newcomers a sample of the aerial venture,” he continues, as he shows us the not-so-high, less intimidating course. “But for those who itch for the ultimate, a four-wheel-drive Safari Cruiser brings you to Asia’s first longest dual zipline. Boasting of two 840-meter runways and a drop of 100 meters, zipping through the forest canopy at 60 to 80 kilometers per hour is an experience to brag about,” he declares with a huge smile.

A quick walk around the estate brought us to the Dropzone, the country’s first. “It’s a 120-foot edge-of-your-seat freefall, which stops barely a couple of inches from the water,” Victorio entices. All throughout, we notice the high standards of safety and ever-present assistance.

A winding road surrounded by vines and blooms – a positive sign of nature undisturbed – led us to the Pinegrove Mountain Lodge, where we relished home-cooked comfort food amidst the chilly gusts, serene beauty and calm vibe of the well-preserved estate.

For families with smaller children and the elderly, and those who fear heights, speed or whatever other phobias, the Dahilayan Forest Park Resort, which lies in mountains nearby, is most ideal for it is a kinder and tamer refuge.

A favorite attraction, we noticed, was the Forest Luge. Who could resist a gas-free journey down a not-too-steep asphalt road on a cart pulled down by nothing but gravity? Others eagerly got on an all terrain vehicle (ATV) – with helmets and kneepads on – for a bumpy ride along a 3.5-kilometer trail at the foot of Mount Kitanglad, the Philippines’ fourth highest peak.

We reminisced childhood memories as we passed by the playground, filled with nostalgic slides, see-saws, swings and monkey bars, among life-sized animal sculptures.

Upon the gracious insistence of Therese Perrine Foley, an old friend and colleague from the days of now-gone Hotel Intercontinental Manila, we visited her sister Paula, who presently manages the Bukidnon Country Lodge, a one-time-family home now turned into a business villa.

Situated in the midst of pineapple and sugar fields and a well-kept garden of fruit-bearing trees and flowering shrubs, it is the epitome of gracious living.

Time seemed at a standstill when we caught up with each other’s lives as we sipped rich home-grown coffee, with slices of freshly baked moist chocolate cake – served in porcelain antique cups and saucers, perfectly polished silver cutlery and well-starched cloth napkins – by trusted and reliable housekeepers of old who today ably assist in providing memories to its guests.

I was in for a quick history lesson when we drove by the solitary General Douglas MacArthur Landmark, an obelisk-shaped memorial, with a remnant of a war plane propeller, at the end of the vegetation-covered, presently-abandoned Del Monte Airfield at Barangay Dicklum. With the destruction of Clark Air Base during World War II, the strip became the staging area for combat missions. I learned that from this hallowed ground, the American Caesar of the “I shall return” fame departed from our islands to seek refuge in Australia.

We then moved on to Barangay Poblacion and KampoJuan, another adventure site. A deep and narrow ravine runs through the property, where it offers anicycling, zip, the hanging bridge and rappelling – all not for the faint-hearted. The ever-so-charming Mercy Balendez, the official greeter/general manager/PR manager/sales and marketing manager/tikilyera/cashier, is definitely a woman for all seasons in her dedication to the job. Thanks to Michael Orjalesa, the operator-in-charge of these heart-stopping ventures, who encouraged and built up our confidence and gave us a you-can-do-it push to defy our fears, as we successfully bargained for just one adventure – anicycling. Phew!!!

And that’s not all there is to KampoJuan. Within the wilderness exists a six-hectare demo farm, which showcases their signature sweet mini-pineapple – a wonder of plant cross-breeding.

Running behind a meticulously-prepared itinerary by Decius Esmedalla of the DOT Region 10, we hurried to the Kaamulan Open Theater for the Kuwa Kid On (Dali Namo), an appropriate opening gala for the province’s Kaamulan Festival. Dramatic cultural presentations, like no other we’ve seen before, spotlighted the mesmerizing chants and elaborate body movements  which gave us an exclusive peep into the daily lives of the mountain tribes, as well as their history and heritage, traditions and beliefs.

The Bukidnon State University Chorale amazed us with their rendition of generations-revered tunes such as Bogoyan (Hatagan Ko Ikaw) and Limbay hu Anak. Another group known as the Kalayag contributed the songs Kahayag and Bukidnon. Meanwhile, the Bukidnon State University Dance Troupe with their version of Goray, Tagwapuhan and Sagakad, provided a fitting climax to the night’s festivities.

Throughout the presentations, we admired the animated narrative of Iso Montalvan, undoubtedly proud daughter of Bukidnon and a storyteller par excellence.

The following morning, in contrast to the buzz of the city, we found a deafening silence at the Transfiguration Monastery, a Benedictine sanctuary situated in a 100-hectare property in the outskirts of Malaybalay. Father Columbano – no surnames needed – a jolly old monk that knew it all – people, places, and events – lovingly shared interesting anecdotes on the long history and origins of the place that warmed our hearts, as he welcomed us with caffeine-free Monk’s Blend coffee.

The Silver Jubilee of the monastery brought about the inauguration of the Museum of Liturgical Vestments, where presently a 50-piece display of historically-based handmade priestly robes made of fabrics such as piña and abaca by Dom Martin is on show. Many fondly remember him as Gang Gomez, an erstwhile leading Manila fashion designer. He certainly has not lost his touch – more so in his new calling!

“Benedictine buildings are revered worldwide as centers of culture and the arts,” Father Columbano confides.

We whispered a little prayer at the iconic chapel – an obsidian black shrine, designed by the late National Artist for Architecture Leandro Locsin – which is popular today for wedding ceremonies. And everyone realizes why: the imposing exterior, with an open-air design overlooking Mount Kitanglad, and the solemn interior featuring an altar over a huge rock – all make the abbey a scenic and memorable venue.

On the last morning before our noon flight back home, we barely found time to shop. So we focused on Vjandep the pastry shop for our fill of pasteles followed by a quick visit to the Stoneware Pottery Inc. Despite being a Sunday, factory owner Reynan Abella happily accommodated us. We selected our favorites from randomly arranged piles of handcrafted cups and bowls, saucers and plates, vases and decor -- all seemingly trying to catch our attention.

With the wonderful memories of childhood then and the progressive developments we experienced now, we know all too well that we will revisit – next time, for a longer stay. Photos by Edu Jarque