Amen to Amanoi

It is imperative to travel and see the world to discover the most fascinating places. I once said that “We live to travel and travel to live.”

To be passionate about exhilarating destinations is as necessary as breathing for those who wish to attempt to satisfy their otherwise insatiable wanderlust. It has been said by many a poet that “what lies behind us and before us is not as significant as what lies within us.”

I was reminded of these thoughts as a slice of paradise on earth welcomed our senses: Amanoi, a member of the prestigious Aman collection. From Manila, I took a three-and-a-half hour flight to Ho Chi Minh then a 45-minute flight to Cam Rhan Bay in Nha Trang. Another 45 minutes by car would reveal the paradise called Amanoi. 

The enchanting Amanoi is a 31-room boutique resort perched on the dramatic mountaintop with overlooking views of the immaculately blue bay standing like a sentinel over the seas. Drawing its name from the Sanskrit-derived word for “peace” and “noi” meaning “place” in Vietnamese, Amanoi is a tranquil beachside retreat. Embraced by the rolling hills of Nui Chua National Park, the resort overlooks the picturesque Vinh Hy Bay of which 7,300 hectares is a marine reserve.

As it overlooks the turquoise bay, the resort is spread over rocky outcrops surrounded by thick vegetation. The intoxicating luxury of Amanoi embraces nature while providing a serene beachside retreat on the coast of Vietnam.

Rice paddies and coconut trees lined the well-paved highway that led us to the resort located 300 feet above sea level. As our vehicle climbed its way higher and higher, we were surprised to see cacti and what looked suspiciously like the Joshua tree in Nevada. We found out that the area where the resort can be found is actually in one of the driest areas in Vietnam set on 43 hectares. It is adjacent to the 29,000-hectare Nui Chua National Park.

Nature lovers have different hiking trails with varied levels of difficulty to choose from. Designed by Asia-based Jean-Michel Gathy, a favorite of Aman, all is picture-perfect here with expansive views. Every nook and cranny is poetic architecture with candles and colonnades.

In luxurious grace, there are guest accommodations that include 31 pavilions, some with private swimming pools; and five Aman Villas, all with impressive views. The design of the Aman pavilions and villas combines contemporary style with traditional Vietnamese architectural features to complement the natural surroundings. After a scenic drive through Nui Chua National Park, guests ascend a broad bank of stairs to Amanoi’s Central Pavilion. Situated atop a hill at the property’s highest point, the Central Pavilion houses a number of relaxation and dining venues.

As we were preparing to go out for breakfast, we heard a racket outside our door and we went out to investigate and saw several birds between seven and 10 inches long in height hopping merrily about. Referring to our guest information book, we learned that these were the aptly named White-crested Laughing Thrush, one of the 181 bird species in this nature reserve. (Birders, take note!)

After breakfast we went for a swim in the beach club and the water was refreshingly cool and clean—a perfect contrast to the arid weather conditions. The service was attentive and guest assistance quickly set up beach lounge chairs under an umbrella with icy complimentary juices and water at hand. We enjoyed the sea breeze that came in off the ocean over the infinity pool before reaching us. Snorkelers will be treated to coral reefs filled with different species of Acropora corals. Acropora is a genus of small polyp stony coral in the phylum Cnidaria. Some of its species are known as table coral, elk horn coral, and stag horn coral. Over 149 species are described.

Backed by huge granite boulders, the Beach Club is located on the sandy white beach of Vinh Hy Bay. It offers lounging and dining areas, as well as a swimming pool and changing rooms. A range of water sports equipment is provided including snorkeling gear, kayaks, stand-up paddleboards, and hobie-cats.

We spent the lunch hour at the nearby Vinh Hy fishing village and we found a cove full of fishing boats all pointed upwind and gently riding the gentle swells. We had lunch overlooking this scenery and enjoyed the seafood roll very much and eyed the large lobster at the next table.

For high tea, we had local rice cake with shrimps and mango and ice-cold lemon grass tea. The resort offers complimentary tea service between 3:30 and 4:30 p.m. and serves Vietnamese snacks. It was prepared in front of us in a traditional Vietnamese way with individual covers. The little built-in bowls is where the rice flour mixture is poured and covered just a minute before it is thoroughly cooked with the savory fillings pressed into the top. We had chicken and seafood and onion. Those with a sweet tooth had a mango filling.

 The restaurant occupies the very heart of the Central Pavilion. Elegant and spacious, it offers an air-conditioned interior, as well as shaded al fresco dining areas. Notable items we enjoyed were the Bahn mi, the quintessential Vietnamese sandwich served on a crusty French baguette filled with paté and “siu mai”— Chinese dimsum. The caramelized grouper baked in a clay pot was delightful as was the various Vietnamese rolls, both fresh and fried.

The Library is situated below the restaurant, and offers a varied selection of reading material in several languages. Next to the Central Pavilion is the Cliff Pool, one of the two main swimming pools. Backed by a wooden deck and granite boulders, it overlooks the bay.

We were lucky enough to watch a scintillating full moon rise out of Vinh Hy Bay. A reddish faint ball emerged and turned from the hazy purple horizon and slowly transformed into a bright orange ball. The higher it climbed into the sky, the brighter it sparkled like a silver orb glistening all in its path.

Dinner was never second best as we had fresh grouper in clay pot with garlic rice and some bokchoy vegetables. After a hearty meal, we pampered ourselves with a relaxing massage at the lovely spa. The gentle hands of the masseuse and the scent of verbena were more than enough to rest our weary bodies. Each of the five double treatment suites features a private dressing area and shower, as well as unique double bathtubs. Several offer access to outdoor relaxation areas.

Our breakfast the following day was divine, too. It consisted of eggs Benedict with the hollandaise sauce served on the side. Only when they set it up did they gently spoon the amber liquid over the quivering yolks.

Come dinnertime, under the pale glow of the full moon, we dined with Amanoi general manager Sean Flakelar, who has been with the Aman collection for 23 years.

I have proudly shared in my past articles that I am an Aman junkie, the term used for those who have visited at least three Aman resorts. I had been to Amanpulo in the Philippines, Amanbagh in Rajastan and Aman Bali. Sean shared his experiences in the different Aman he worked in. We learned that the Amanwana in Indonesia offers a seven-night adventure through the pristine wilderness and waters of the Komodo National Park. A two-night stay at Amanwana caps the experience, a luxury tented wilderness hideaway on Moyo Island and takes place aboard Amandira or Amanikan, Amanwana’s custom-built sailing vessels.

My friend Yvette Lee and Sean shared their love for diving. It was amazing to learn so much from their diving escapades. It was a magical moment we wished would last forever.

There may be countless resorts in the world but nothing compares to the distinct flavor and philosophy of the Aman collection. The level of service and discretion offered by Aman makes them the prime choice of the discerning travelers for more than a quarter of a century. 

At Amanoi, one will feel like royalty as one is pampered to one’s delight.  After all, it is here that you realize that that there are no perfect lives but only perfect moments wherein you travel to live and live to travel.

There are places on earth that captivate you and make you realize that a life worth living for can be found.

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For reservations at Amanoi log on to www.aman.com/resorts/amanoi.

For flight bookings, call Violet Chua of Journeys & Discoveries, Inc. at 667-3239 to 40.

Email the author at miladay.star@gmail.com.