Manila by night

MANILA, Philippines - Why would one want to venture into Manila at night, especially in the Ermita and Malate area? Tourists would most likely veer away from the seedier part of the capital and long-time residents like us find little time or interest in touring the city. For George Ordona, however, Manila still has so many hidden gems to discover.

In his earlier years, George arranged adventure tours – some all the way to Tawi-Tawi. A self-confessed jack-of-all-trades, George is a mountaineer, teaches both diving and speed reading, and is now the operator and tour guide behind Manilakad, a new and original night walking tour of Manila. At his age, he says he can’t do the adventure tours to far away destinations anymore, but Manila offers its own different kind of adventure and thrill.

Unlike many other walking tours, Manilakad is more casual – the itinerary is not set in stone and participants can venture and explore if something piques their interest. George keeps up the banter along the way, stopping sometimes to point out a building or share a historical tidbit.

As a long-time Manila resident, we often take for granted the rich history of the place. In Manilakad, George highlights this. Even the meeting place – the Ateneo Bell outside the Padre Faura entrance of Robinson’s Manila – has historical significance. The tour begins as we wait for others to join us. George brings back the days when Ateneo was still found in Manila and the La Salle-Ateneo rivalry (and before that, the Ateneo-San Beda and La Salle-Letran rivalries) were a lot more violent and exciting.

Old Manila seems to come alive with George’s stories. We walk by the Supreme Court as he tells us about World War II, how we lost the original copies of the Declaration of Independence and the National Anthem, as well as other Manila sites destroyed during that time – the National Library and National Museum.

Even the street signs become talking points for George, who gives faces to the names – Padre Faura, Maria Orosa, Jorge Bocobo and Aristocrat’s Engracia Cruz-Reyes.

George is not the only one who talks during the tour. The vibe during Manilakad is like you’re with a group of people with different interests, all with something to share about Manila. At the Philamlife building, we talk about how the auditorium was once a musical hub that has been shut down for years now. Near it is the Manila Pavilion, where George’s wife Pura tells us about her days working there in public relations. She remembers fondly Top of the Hilton and the popular lunchtime fashion shows.

Manilakad is not just about history and nostalgia though. There are new discoveries, too. We turn a corner and see something that we in all our years in Manila have never noticed before – a store with no sign to share its name, but with a window display full of model houses, which turn out to be coin banks. The elaborate alkansyas come in small houses with picket fences, some bungalows, condominiums and even a coin bank perya, complete with ferris wheel.

A little bit further is National Artist F. Sionil Jose’s bookstore, Solidaridad, where you can find rare books that cannot be found elsewhere. The shop was closed when we were there, but if you’re lucky, you can meet the National Artist as you browse through the wide selection of books.

We pass by the popular Tesoro’s souvenir shop, but bypass it for some nearby antique stores. Here you may stumble upon some curious finds, religious icons and more.

Along the Manilakad trail, you can discover some new talents as well. 1335 Mabini, housed in the Casa Tesoro colonial building, is a treasure trove of contemporary art with exhibitions, workshops and lectures. As we view the gallery exhibit, George remembers another story. The Beatles, he says, went to Mabini instead of Malacañang during their (in)famous trip to Manila back in the ’60s. There, Paul McCartney is said to have bought a painting from National Artist BenCab, who was then just one of the Mabini artists.

Of course, all the walking will make you hungry and Manilakad has many refuelling stops along the way. We stop first at Hizon’s for the famous ensaimada which has so many fans, led by the late comedy king Dolphy. We also stop at the Shawarma Snack Center, reportedly the first and original shawarma store in the country.George recommends buying take-out and eating shawarma while watching the Manila Bay sunset. We stop by the AdvoCafé for some coffee with a cause. The products sold here benefit indigenous scholars. The night ends with dinner at Eras, which offers very cheap but authentic ramen – something unexpected for a simple street-side restaurant.

A stop at Malate Church offers some time to reflect on the evening. “This place has character, heart,” George says, adding that he would take the chaotic streets of Manila over the posh Bonifacio Global City any day. “Manila was a beautiful city… it still is, if you know where to look and if you have a little imagination.”

Glory days now well in the past, Manila still has some excitement and beauty tucked around every corner. George hopes that more people will start to appreciate Manila and patronize its businesses. Hopefully then, there will be more importance put in restoring and protecting this city of our dreams.

To know more about Manilakad, visit facebook.com/manilakad