A spiritual landscape in Iloilo

MANILA, Philippines - To take away the religious gifts and architectural marvels that were built in Iloilo through the years would leave a void in the province’s narrative of history and nostalgia.

Nestled in communal avenues to be shared by all, churches remain testaments to our country’s Christian heritage, and more importantly, our people’s culture of undying faith and unfailing devotion. With our vivid spiritual experiences and tradition of storytelling, they have also become the root of folklore and even miracles.

During a memorable trip on a meticulously planned itinerary prepared by the Department of Tourism Regional Director of Western Visayas lawyer Helen Catalbas, we had a chance to re-visit and whisper prayers in a number of these halls of worship from Iloilo’s capital districts to its southern countryside, as we were led through the province’s treasures by the on-top-of-everything-gentleman Ray Tabafunda of DOT RVI, able tour guide Erlyn Alunan, and dependable driver Ernest Sandoval.

At the surrounding districts, a splendid collection awaited us.

La Nuestra Señora de La Paz y Buen Viaje or Our Lady of Peace and Good Voyage in La Paz district had its beginnings as far back as the 1600s, with the original image – now weathered with age – brought in during the Manila-Acapulco Galleon trade.

As it came all the way from Mexico, then our country’s sister in trade, the dangerous three-month voyage over the Pacific Ocean was blessed as no harm befell the ship and its men. Travelers and merchants sought supplication at her shrine for safe expeditions and were devoted to the Holy Mother for her protection on travels over vast bodies of water.

With its gorgeous and intricate interiors, it is a favored venue for ceremonial occasions such as weddings and baptisms.

The centuries old Church of St. Elizabeth of Hungary and the National Shrine of Our Lady of Lights, La Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria – commonly known as the Jaro Cathedral – was devastated by an earthquake in January 1948 and then later restored, preserving its Baroque and Gothic themes.

Visited by St. Pope John Paul II, its 400 year old image, the solitary female patron among a host of male saints – transferred from the main altar where it no longer fits in its original niche – is now encased in glass outside sheltered by a limestone grotto where it is believed to be growing taller over time.

The cathedral recently garnered attention from media as Senator Grace Poe became big news, and her origins as a foundling in its enclaves caused a temporal sensation.

La Iglesia de Sta. Ana, simply called Molo Church and dominated by the retab-lo of the district’s patron, is a familiar landmark and attraction that is a testament to the beauty of old architecture with its fusion of Romanesque and Gothic characteristics, and its pointed spires reminiscent of skyscraper silhouettes. The primary building material is coral rock held together a drab egg-white and sand mortar, which glow a soft gold at sunset.

Its interiors are defined by fine wooden gothic pillars and biblical scenes. Female saints housed in their own niches, are the patrons of many ladies who pray for grace. Thus, it has earned distinction as the women’s church. Our tour guide, however, coyly asked if we had earlier noticed the only male saint, St. Pedro Calungsod, who somehow found his way into the almost exclusive feminine company.  

The Arevalo Church has the image of Sto. Niño de Arevalo, which was brought by the Augustinian friars. It is said to be miraculous and is honored by the devotees with sworn statements of its power to heal diseases, serious injuries, infertility, and even prevent famine and drought for the poverty-stricken, as well as a beacon to the spiritually lost.

Once upon a time, the beloved Sto. Niño was believed to have defended Villa Arevalo from a Moro attack. Legend has it that as the pirate armada was spotted at sea, the image was brought to the shore, and invaders quickly retreated due to the apparition of a radiant boy warrior in a crimson cape.

We next headed south, mapped our way to the town of San Joaquin, and then drove up to Miag-ao and Oton, where one can still find magnificent sacred edifices which are notable expressions of Filipino creativity.

La Iglesia de San Joaquin was built in 1869 and is most distinctly remembered for its militaristic and intricate bas reliefs in depiction of the Battle of Tetuan, where the Spanish conquered the Moroccans.

In a collection of columns and rosettes, and with its arched entrance adorned with the Augustinian Seal flanked by child-like angels, it is a stunning homage of quarried limestone and artistry. Its intrinsic relevance is recognized as it was declared a National Cultural Treasure by the National Historical Institute.

The municipio is also imperative in the myth of the Barter of Panay, where Bornean Datus exchanged items of value, such as the Golden Salakot, with the Aetas to live in peace and harmony.

Overlooking the sea and not to be missed is the Camposanto de San Joaquin, the ancient Roman Catholic cemetery, with its grand mausoleum and stone walls, which is considered to be one of the most beautiful in Asia.

Marked as a strong, monolithic fortress, the Sto. Tomas de Villanueva is often referred to as the Miag-ao Church. Gorgeous with its ornate and well-preserved designs, it is inarguably of global importance, as it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1993, along with three other Baroque-Spanish era churches in the Philippines.

Its solidity is unsurprising as it served as a defensive tower of the sitio against Muslim raids, in a time when conflict between the two religions was still prevalent in the region.

A relatively new sanctuary is the Immaculate Conception Church of Oton. Modern with its white concrete, clean lines, colorful stained glass windows and sculptures of the Crucified Christ and His suffering Mother, it now draws pilgrims and devotees of its own.

However, though it no longer stands, its predecessor the Church of Oton is worth recalling, with its Greek cross and a confluence Byzantine, Gothic, and Roman classical features. Sadly, it succumbed to the earthquake of 1948. 

Now, nature has slowly yet beautifully reclaimed the ruins, with tree roots and vegetation artfully growing in its crevices-- the beautiful accents to a grotto devoted to the Blessed Virgin Mary.

The churches of Iloilo, with their dedication to wonders of God and man’s humbler creations, will forever hold their place in our collective story as a people. Our journey came to an end with the genuine tranquility of having had meaningful moments of admiration and faith. Photos by Edu Jarque