MANILA, Philippines - Two decades of blossoming together, Baguio is once again ready to welcome thousands of tourists from all over the country to celebrate the annual flower festival that is Panagbenga.
While most of us are aware that it’s a display of creativity of the locals, it actually started in 1995 as an initiative by Damaso Bangoet Jr. of John Hay Poro Point Development Corporation (JPDC) and Victor Lim of the Bases Conversion Development Authority (BCDA) to create a festival that the locals could own. It’s also envisioned to bring back the tourism growth in the city after the devastating 1990 Luzon earthquake.
From then the festival grew to what it is today, a colorful display of resiliency and celebration of new life – like the flowers blossoming in full glory on the grand floats.
Aside from the much awaited grand float parade on Sundat and street dance competition the day before, I’ve listed three “must-do” things while in Baguio during the festivities.
Head to the rodeo, yeehaw!
Few of us know that Baguio City was once a vast plateau of rancherias used by horse-riding Ibalois for pasturing their cattle.
Long before the Americans established the American Hill Station now called Baguio City, it was known as Kafagway where early settlers like the Ibalois used horses to trade livestock in the Old Stone Market and traverse the narrow mountain trails adorned with grassy plains and towering pine trees. The Ibalois are good horsemen,and with the arrival of the Americans the colonizers further enhanced this tradition.
The scenic trails were replaced by concrete roads and walks, and many years have passed but a group of horse riders known as the Wright Park Pony Boys’ Association continues to keep alive the tradition of horse racing and other western-style activities. So who says we need to travel all the way to Texas to see real life cowboys?
To those who will be attending this year’s festivities, Pony Boys’ Day will be held at the Athletic Bowl on March 7th. So ready your leather jackets and boots, dust off that cowboy hat and get ready to show some horsemanship and hop in line and dance to good old country music.
If you’ve not done something like this before, don’t worry – the pony boys will gladly guide every tourist through these activities.
Shop like a local
You don’t really know Baguio if you haven’t discovered that the city is a haven for bargain shoppers. From clothes to fresh goods that are usually priced like gold here in the lowlands, Baguio thrives with thrift shops and trade centers. Indeed, the locals are lucky to have these blessings all within reach.
For us tourists, learning how to bargain for the best price is a must, as prices are usually high during these “cake times” in the city. Using some Ilocano terms will also help you get the good deal, so awan tawad nan? No seller can ignore a persistent shopper, right?
Almost all the clothing brands in ukay-ukay centers are sold at very low prices. But keep in mind that most of these clothes and shoes are second-hand imports from our neighbors in Asia.
According to a study published by Ma. Rina Locsin of University of the Philippines Baguio, the term ukay-ukay was derived from the Filipino word hukay which means “to dig up.” Other terms also include wag-wag or “airing out” and “dusting off” a piece of clothing.
Digging into shelves upon shelves of clothes and scrambling your way to different stalls with the thick crowd is one of the challenging yet fun part of ukay-ukay shopping, and finding a great designer piece for less than P50 is even more rewarding.
The most famous of all ukay-ukay centers is the one set up along Harrison Road from nine in the evening till midnight. If you aren’t feeling that adventurous, there are a number of thrift shops in Teacher’s Camp and Mines View Park that are open during day time.
The Camp John Hay Commissary has authorized retail stores of apparel and sports wear brands to sell discounted and sometimes ‘factory priced’ items.
For locally made pasalubongs, Mountain Maid Training Center or Good Shepherd is the right spot for the justifiably famous ube halaya and strawberry jams. The products are slightly pricey as their income will be used to fund the needs of their scholars.
Located at the lower end of Session Road, the city’s public market is a hub for fresh produce of the Mountain Province and the center for souvenirs typical in Baguio. While making your way to the vegetable shops in the north wing of the market, one can easily get waylaid by the aromas of coffee and spices that waft from a shop that sells locally grown coffee beans and an adjacent store of various dried spices. This alley will surely awaken your senses. Come in the morning to pick up the best produce at the best prices. Oh – and bring your largest shopping bag and enjoy!
Because Eat’s More Fun in Baguio
One of the perks of discovering the city by foot is to go on a food trip, since the cool climate makes the appetite heartier and the eating more delightful.
Morning starts with a cup of hot Rizal’s tsokolate-eh with brioche cinnamon toast along with other freshly baked bread at Cafe by the Ruins, which is known for tasty comfort food made from locally sourced ingredients. Highly popular, they just opened their first branch, Cafe by the Ruins Dua in Upper Session Road.
Open daily from 6 a.m. to 11 p.m., Le Chef by The Manor at Camp John Hay offers all-day dining goodness, from Filipino specialities to tender juicy steaks. Other Asian and the chef’s creative dishes are also available at the menu.
Located along Upper Session Road, Mario’s Restaurant’s pasta and pizza is something to look forward to during day time. While their caesar salad is famous, their pasta carbonara is divine, its creamy white sauce a well-balanced treatment of taste. Its old western house inspired interiors will make you feel like coming to grandma’s house.
March 1 to 8 sees Session Road in bloom, when Baguio’s busiest road will be closed for a week and stalls are put up for food, plants, art items, concert stages and everything in between. It’s the mother of all food and souvenir expos. Enjoy a hot lhaksa with friends or binge on freshly cooked chili cheese sticks and popular shawarma while roaming around looking for your next food target. Always be reminded that the crowd swells from the afternoon ‘til night, and be extra careful with your belongings as thieves see this as a buffet of opportunity.
Wrap up your day-long tour around the city with a tasteful Spanish dish over a glass of wine in Te Quero Tapas Bar and Restaurant. Live acoustic bands add character to the Spanish inspired interiors and decor, making it an ideal place for romantic dates and family gatherings. The restaurant is located at Microtel Inn and Suites by Wyndham Baguio and adjacent to the Victory Liner bus terminal.
Where to stay
For those who want to be in the epicenter of activities without weighting on your budget, city center hotels like Hotel Veniz offer a great vantage point for all the celebration that will happen along Session and Harrison roads. The budget hotel just got even better with its newly renovated facilities and expansion is on the way for their first branch along Session Road to accommodate their growing number of regular guests. Other conveniently located city center hotels are City Travel Hotel, Starwood Hotel, Burnham Suites, Eurotel Baguio, The Golden Pine Hotel & Restaurant and Chalet Hotel. Rates are kept steadily affordable at Mile Hi-Inn, Marian Kisad Hotel and Summer Place Hotel.
Microtel Inn & Suites by Wyndham are recommended for the mobility-conscious travelers. The hotel is located right across the Victory Liner bus terminal in Upper Session Road, making it a convenient hub for travelers who will take the bus to and from Baguio City. This year, the hotel will start construction on its new wing that will house more rooms to accommodate the demand of their regular and new happy guests.
Also located along Upper Session Road, Casa Vallejo is conveniently where beautifully decorated floats will be lined up for the parade. One can open the room window and sit on your bed while watching these events pass by in front of the hotel.
Standing firmly with its log cabin inspired architecture, The Manor at Camp John Hay guests are liberated from the pressures of the city, thus making it a perfect place to relax after joining the crowd in the city center. Also located inside Camp John Hay, Le Monet Hotel offers comfort and quiet while staying updated on the festivities.
For those who are traveling with family or group of friends, Azalea Residences Baguio’s large apartment suites are ready to accommodate your need for extra space. The hotel’s suites let big groups warm up together while enjoying the comfort of their beds.
The Mediterranean-inspired Hotel Elizabeth in Gibraltar and log cabin inspired The Forest Lodge in Camp John Hay also offer convenience of space, serenity and comfort on their own specific styles.
Got extra time?
Take Ben Palispis Highway and turn left to Santo Tomas Road, the scenic drive will take you to Mt. Sto. Tomas Ranger Station where you can view the entire Baguio City from literally above the clouds. Go very early in the morning so you’ll witness sunrise amidst a sea of clouds. A local TV network began shooting a tele-drama there and has thus popularized the place, which they now call La Presa.
An hour-and-a-half drive from the city you will find the Halsema Highway to Atok, where the highest national highway can be found. Truckloads of fresh vegetables pass through this road, and you can actually negotiate with the farmers for some of their goods before they reach the city market.
On your way back to Baguio you’ll pass Kabayan, Benguet where mummified early settlers inside caves can be visited. A local tour guide will take you on a picturesque 20-minute trek to the caves. In respect for the dead, I encourage you to keep your cameras away when they open the log coffins.
Those bringing their cars need not to worry about an empty tank as they roam around the city. Caltex, Petron and Shell fuel stations are readily available around the city so you won’t miss an event.
No matter how you will spend Panagbenga this year, always be reminded that like any other tourist destination, Baguio is striving hard to make our time fun and memorable. Be responsible, bring out what trash you brought in, and treat the city as your second home.
For more information, check The Philippine STAR’s Hotel and Restaurant Guide published every Wednesday and Friday. For freebies from The Philippine STAR please visit our booths in strategic areas in Baguio City from Feb. 27 to March 1, 2015. Photos by Fernan Nebres AND Andy Zapata