MANILA, Philippines - It’s June once again. For most people, this month signals another hectic school year, but for those from the town of Balayan in the province of Batangas, it is once again the appetizing “Parada ng Lechon†- a celebration coinciding with the Feast of St. John the Baptist.
Every 24th of June, the streets of Balayan are filled with mouth-watering aroma coming from the lechon’s fresh meat, bit by bit roasted to golden brown over a bed of charcoal. The townspeople get even more exhilarated, as they look forward to that succulent and luscious meat under the glazed skin crackling wildly tempting them to grab a bite.
“Lechon,†a Spanish term, which means roasted suckling pig has been a symbol for feast for most Filipinos. It is a desired dish that brings all the people in the community together. According to history, affluent clans during the Spanish and American period would parade a lechon on their way to the church every 24th of June to show gratitude and devotion to their patron saint for all the blessings they have received in the past. Through the years, the tradition had become one of the most celebrated festivals in Batangas.
Before the parade begins, an Anniversary Ball is held at the town plaza the night before the 24th. The “Queen of the Festival†is crowned on that night. A mass is held on the following day in honor of St. John at the Immaculate Conception Church. To signify the baptism of John the Baptist, the lechons are arranged on the patio and blessed. After the mass, the parade begins and the vibrant and waterlogged fiesta kicks in.
Roasting and grooming the lechon
The pig is cooked by removing the entrails and skewering its entire body. In Balayan, the charcoals are placed on the side of the pig, in a roasting pit. To achieve a flavorful taste, a big bunch of lemon grass, peppercorn, and other condiments are put in the pig.
The pig is roasted for at least five hours while wiping the skin with brush made of leaves with water and the pigs own oil or fat to make the skin brown and crispy.
After roasting the pig, the exciting part begins- dressing it up. The presentation of the lechon depends on the theme chosen by the social organization heading the event. The comical and amazing line up of lechons with raincoats, sunglasses, wigs, and other amusing costumes is a sight to see in the fiesta.
Parading the lechon
Usually, at least 50 lechons participate in the celebration. The parade proceeds after blessing the lechons and people in St. Johns' name. Since splashing water is also a part of the festivity, some may toss water over the lechons, drenching the lechon bearers as well. Some participants guard their lechons with barbed wires to stop pranksters from touching or eating the enticing lechons.
After parading on the streets, the lechons are taken back to their homes for yet another fête. Otherwise, for those who believe in sharing, their prized lechons are given to the mass of people.
For those who are planning to witness this merriment on the 24th, do not forget to bring extra clothes, extra patience and extra room for food in your stomach.