MANILA, Philippines - For many visitors to Paris, it is the grand, jaw-dropping, must-not-miss experiences that make it one of the most beautiful cities in the world. And rightly so, because Paris has the iconic sites, world brands, and outstanding food all in one place.
But for me, Paris is all about living there and enjoying the things that residents enjoy doing, without spending tons of money and rushing from one tourist site to another. Of course, a few weeks in a rented apartment does not make one a Parisienne, but the experience is so much more relaxed, more senior-friendly, than a whirlwind visit. There are so many apartments available for rent on the Internet, and one’s decision is based, first and foremost, on the arrondissement of choice and the money one wants to spend on rent.
Renting an apartment is far cheaper than staying in a hotel. A couple can eat inexpensively, move around using the Metro or the bus (taxis are expensive, and because of the traffic, quite slow) and — best of all — walk, walk, get lost, discover something new, and walk some more.
Breakfast is a baguette bought from the boulangerie at the corner, taken with butter and cheese from the fromagerie, and eggs and salami from Monop (Monoprix’s convenience store). Lunch can be roast chicken from the charcuterie and salad greens and fruits from the open market on the plaza. Of course, dinners can be more special — if the suggestions of best eye surgeon, master travel planner, foodie and Francophile Dr. Vic Caparas are followed. He researches all the blogs and tests the restaurants with his lovely wife, Dr. Corlu. When he gives his stamp of approval, you can be sure the restaurant, which need not necessarily have a Michelin star, is worth trying.
When our Pinoy palates tire of French food (and maybe it is just us who need to eat rice once in awhile, wherever), there are numerous Asian restaurants — Chinese, Korean, Vietnamese — that serve very affordable meals. We are always on the lookout for tiny spots that can take on a few people, elbow to elbow, with more people waiting outside. That is a sign of a good meal at a good price. There are also a lot of relatively authentic Japanese ramen and tempura restaurants on Rue Petit Champs, pretty much their “Japan†town, complete with a Japanese supermarket.
The simple joys of being in Paris are available to locals and visitors alike. For less than 20 euros, the weekly Navigo pass allows unlimited rides on the Metro and the bus. One can reach a lot of tourist sites, without joining a formal tour. Line 13 passes through the Basilica of Saint Denis, where many of the French royalty are buried, including King Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette. Line 1 goes to La Defense, where the Grande Arche, which reminds me of a square doughnut, is their 20th-century interpretation of the Arc de Triomphe.
Please be warned, though, that the Metro has a lot of stairs, and not too many lifts or escalators. While it is a bit of a challenge to climb up, I see a lot of elderly people, sometimes with a suitcase in tow, managing to do so.
Music is everywhere in Paris. There are live performances on the plazas and in the churches. Live music echoes within the subterranean walkways of the Metro, masking the metallic whoosh of the trains as they stop and go. There are even musicians who board the metro trains and serenade the passengers with their accordions. Of course these performers request, but never push, for a “donation.â€
The River Seine is the focal point of inexpensive entertainment. Just bring a baguette, some cheese and salami, a bottle of wine, and select a preferred area on the riverbanks and have a picnic. In the summer, on the Quai St. Bernard, near the Jardin des Plantes, different dance groups show off their skills in tango, salsa, even boogie — and you don’t have to pay to watch them!
Berthillon ice cream — freshly made, sans preservatives — so that one can taste the flavors, creamy or fruity, only by buying them from Berthillon itself or from locations within or very near Ile Saint Louis. A double scoop of ice cream, taken while waving to the tourists on boats, is one joy. Another is a paper plate of caramel beurre salé crepe, savored while seated on a park bench in front of Saint Sulpice Church. Pure bliss!
My husband runs along the Seine early in the morning before he buys our breakfast baguette. He counts the number of bridges he passes, from Pont de Archeveche, all the way to Solferino and back. He sees the street cleaners open the sidewalk water valves to rinse the streets and hears the machines brush and vacuum the cigarette butts.
Compared to other cities, Paris sparkles — even in the morning! And during a full moon, it is lovely to see her chimneys and rooftops all aglow.
Walking is the way to feel Paris’s soul: the intimate streets and alleys, the covered passages, the courtyard gardens that one can only peep into from the sidewalk, the markers on the walls of houses of famous people who lived there. Tree-lined parks are accessible, providing a quiet space for people who wish to play Petanque or just enjoy a sandwich lunch on a sunny day.
Paris provides entertainment especially in the summer months. Fete de la Musique, which happens on the 21st of June, allows musicians of every genre to perform in street corners. And hey, if you don’t like what a band is playing, move to another corner! This day truly has music to the rafters.
Also in the summer, the Paris Gay Pride Parade is super, super fun. It starts from Montparnasse, winds across south Paris, and ends at the Place de la Bastille. The costumes that the participants wear are so imaginative and, uh, naughty. Decorated floats carry people dancing to their kind of music. The beat is so contagious that everyone watching the parade dances, too. A moving street party!
Paris is not inexpensive, but there are many things that can be enjoyed without maxing out one’s credit card. Art and music happen on streets and parks, free for anyone who is willing to look and listen. And no matter how many times one visits this most truly beautiful city, there is always something new that is discovered, learned, read about on posters in the Metro, on church doors, of more things to love about Paris — and many of these on foot.
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Coming next: AFFORDABLE SHOPPING IN PARIS