Java on my mind
Two months after a visit to Central Java, I am left with vivid memories of a place that abounds in natural beauty, where the greatest monuments of the ancient world still stand proud — the 9th century Buddhist sanctuary of Borobudur, and the Hindu temples of Prambanan built between the 8th and 10th centuries. In the countryside, the distractions of contemporary life fade away as you enter a realm where men erected majestic monuments to honor the gods, and carved thousands of stone panels to recount the life and teachings of Buddha.
Central Java is Indonesia’s arts center where in the royal courts of Yogyakarta and Solo, traditional art forms still flourish — gamelan music and Wayang Kulit puppet performances, batik and silver. In rural Java, religious and philosophical traditions such as Hinduism, Buddhism, Islam, Christianity, Taoism and Confucianism developed in varying stages yet still coexist in harmony today. It is said that 2,000 temples once graced the Kedu Valley but a volcanic eruption at Mt. Merapi during the turn of the first millennium buried the temples under a deep layer of ash.
Amanjiwo, one of the landmark structures of the area, sits at the foot of the Menoreh hills where many Javanese still come to seek spiritual wisdom and revelation. The resort overlooks the vast and fertile Kedu Valley. At a distance, volcanic mountains rise from the eastern and western horizons. Amanjiwo’s core circular structure, crowned by a bell-shaped dome, was built from local limestone, and inspired by Borobudur and Java’s ancient architectural traditions. From the bar, dining room and terrace, a vast and verdant landscape rises to view.
We arrived in the late afternoon and enjoyed soursop martinis at our outdoor bale bedecked with rose petals and votive candles. Before long, the sun came down, and the Muslim call to prayer slowly filled the valley as devotees glorified God, sought peace and blessings for their brethren.
The next day, we left after sunrise to visit Borobudur, and later to have breakfast in Dagi Hill. Borobudur is one of the great wonders of the world — conceptually, spiritually and aesthetically. It is the largest and the oldest Buddhist sanctuary in the world. The structure consists of a series of terraces that decrease in size as one nears its central peak. Most stunning of all are the 1,460 bas-reliefs set within 600 square meters of decorative panels that surround them. Some 504 statues of Buddha carved from volcanic stone are set around the monument. In ancient times, Javanese would ascend the steps all the way to the summit to gain spiritual merit. Here, Buddhists could physically and spiritually pass through 10 stages that would transform them into enlightened beings or bodhisattvas. This is said to be the principal purpose of the monument. Thus, the architecture, and the stories depicted in its bas-reliefs, all conform to this theme.
Leaving Borobudur, we headed to the top of the adjacent Dagi Hill where we enjoyed a picnic breakfast of homemade muesli and banana muffins, local coffee and fresh tangerine juice. Sitting under the pine trees, we gazed at outlines of Borobudur from beneath a hazy morning sky.
At midday, we drove back to the resort to explore the grounds at leisure. Amanjiwo has often been described as a destination in its own right. All 36 suites radiate from a dramatic circular structure marked by soaring ceilings and tall colonnades. Down several levels, and at the far end of the resort, a 40-meter pool is set within rice fields, and shaded by clipped Banyan trees. Clustered around the entry hall of the resort are the library, the boutique and the Art Room. The Library occasionally serves as a venue for lectures led by Indonesian experts on Javanese arts and culture. At the boutique, you’ll come across an enticing selection of hand-woven silk scarves and shawls, fine and antique jewelry, gamelan instruments and shadow puppets. In the Art Room, the solo exhibition “Love, Life and Pray†features the works of contemporary artist Deddy Paw, whose canvases depict images of Buddha surrounded by apples in various colors and formations. In the mythologies of several cultures, the apple is endowed with symbolic meaning. For Deddy, the apple symbolizes the connection between man, nature and God. Like all Javanese who have lived with different religious traditions, Deddy looks at the relationship between life and spirituality in his works.
The next day, we visited the OHD Museum in the town of Magelang. The museum features modern and contemporary works of art by Indonesian artists. Dr. Oei Hong Djien, who founded the museum, began collecting art since his early days as a medical student. His collection is considered one of the finest in the country. The first thing that strikes you about the museum is the aluminum installation by Entang Wiharso that covers the building’s dark gray façade. Beyond the courtyard, the first gallery showcases the art of modern masters such as Hendra Gunawan, Affandi, Sudjojono and H. Widayat whose works have appeared in regional art auctions of Southeast Asian Paintings. The next section features abstract and installation art by a group of artists from Western Sumatra, who later became members of the Jendela Art Group that rose to fame in the mid-1990s.
At Dr. Oei’s residence, modern and contemporary works by local artists occupy two separate wings within his home. His collection spans over a hundred years. The earliest of these is a portrait of a woman by Raden Saleh from 1864. Affandi’s depiction of Borbudur is particularly striking as its textural and tonal qualities capture the mystery and the haunting beauty of the monument.
Later that evening, we drove to Pak Bilal’s for dinner in a traditional home. The path to the small bamboo dwelling was lined with paper lanterns. Inside, the place was aglow with candlelight. An Aman chef prepared our multi-course meal over charcoal flames. Gamelan music emanated from an adjacent outdoor pavilion. We relished every moment in this intimate, rustic setting that was unlike anything we have ever known. Pak Bilal welcomed us to his home with his warm smile. When we sat outdoors to take in the moonlit sky, he would pop by to offer us his greetings. Our delightful meal consisted of a local salad enhanced with shredded coconut, lime and chili, grilled marinated mushrooms in banana leaves, braised beef in soya sauce, a garden vegetable curry and a selection of tropical fruits. Steps way from Pak Bilal’s home stands the Pawon temple, built between the 8th and 9th centuries. It was the smallest of the ancient temples we visited yet one that stands out for its decorative details.
Before midnight, we stopped at the Mendut Temple for a late night meditation. This 8th century Mahayana Buddhist temple is regarded as “one of the greatest manifestations of Buddhist spiritual thought and art.†Inside, the three-meter Buddha carved from a single stone is said to be one of the most beautiful statues of Buddha in the world. Mendut takes on an aura of mystery and mysticism by night. Gone are the open-air markets, the food stalls and the hub of daytime activity. We were told that the temple is imbued with positive energy that is best felt in the last hours of night.
On our last day, we visited the H. Widayat Museum, and the Prambanan Temple Complex — vastly different forms of artistic expression, yet both a testament to the rich cultural heritage of Indonesia. The Widayat Museum is situated in a white colonial structure, located between the Mendut and Borobodur Temples. The museum mainly features the work of Widayat, a modern master who is best known for his decorative painting style as well as his use of recurring elements from traditional and primitive motifs. The museum also highlights the work of young artists from the Indonesian Institute of Arts at Yogyakarta where Widayat once served as a lecturer. In the lower galleries, we came across some primitive statues and wooden poles — yet another aspect of Indonesia’s wealth of art forms.
A few kilometers east of Yogyakarta lies the Hindu temple complex of Prambanan, built between the 8th and 10th centuries. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Prambanan Temples are a marvelous architectural and artistic achievement. The impressive tiered structures are dedicated to the Hindu gods, Shiva, Brahma and Vishnu. Stone-relief panels depicting themes from the great Hindu epic, the Ramayana, are a tribute to the talent of Javanese craftsmen who sought to immortalize the teachings of the ancient Hindu sages.
We left Central Java at dusk, when Amanjiwo was at its finest hour. The rotunda and the pathways were gently illuminated as the purple sky turned deep blue. The Muslim call to prayers began to spread throughout the valley — a powerful demonstration of faith and devotion. Being here for a few days deepened my appreciation for nature and its refrains, for spirituality and the arts — aspects that have shaped this land and culture for hundreds of years. The memories of our visit will always stay close to my mind and heart. PHOTOS by TONETTE MARTEL
