The charmed life of Mary Lou Prieto-Lovina

Mary Lou Prieto Lovina, la unica hija of two of the most beloved figures in Manila society, has lived a charmed life.

Her mother, Mary Prieto, the epitome of elegance, was the Philippines’ premier guru on etiquette. A true lady in every sense of the word, she beautifully weaved the power of style with the energy of wit. Her father, the handsome Leo Prieto, a great athlete on both the basketball court and the football field, was a coach at the 1956 Summer Olympics in Melbourne, Australia, where the Philippine Basketball Team accomplished their second best finish ever. He is also considered the Father of the Philippine Basketball Association and a skilled businessman, who acquired property and established food enterprises for his family.

Her parents cast a guiding light in Mary Lou’s life. It allowed her to develop a sense of wonderment for distant places—to absorb arts, cultures, and histories of the world—and different people—to appreciate their traditions, cuisines, and lifestyles. But beyond the grandness of globetrotting, the Prietos set forth a plan for a priceless education, grounding the formation of their daughter in the real world as a student, visitor, wanderer, and resident.

After attending Assumption Convent, Mary Lou was sent to the Mary Mount International School, a boarding school in Kingston upon Thames in England. Then, she was off to Le Manoir, the finishing school in Lausanne, Switzerland, where she specialized in Math and French. And perhaps to meet the high standards of the doyenne of Manila style, Mary Lou attended another finishing school, Mademoiselle Anita’s in Paris, France, for an array of lessons including art appreciation and even the card game, bridge. The student would visit museums in the morning and write her school report in the afternoon. Her worldly education continued in Florence, Italy, where she took classes at a familia de Medici castle.

While on holiday in Manila, Mary Lou fell in love. The well-traveled young woman married Negros sugar baron Manolo Lovina, and had two daughters, Macky, now an environmentalist living in an idyllic barangay in Panay, and Marta Ines, who dabbles in arts and currently lives in the old part of the city. During her marriage, the traveler took some time to plant roots, raising her young daughters and enjoying a quiet family life in the Visayas.

Manila soon beckoned, and Mary Lou returned to a glittering life filled with a swirl of socials, fashion shows, operas, and ballets. What made her return even more special was a commitment to worthwhile projects, including fund raising, together with her mother, for causes involving babies, children, and women’s rights. Truly, it was the best of times. In her heyday, the young Prieto Lovina was a ravishing creature, full of life. Vogue even named her “one of Asia’s most beautiful women.”

Today, there is still no stopping Mary Lou. Now a widow, she remains active in the family business and divides her time between exploring all the new things the city has to offer and, of course, traveling both here and abroad. Forever the wanderer, she cherishes the unique opportunity that her blessed life has afforded her, holding dear to her heart the little apartments of her school days, the never-to-be-repeated experiences in faraway lands, and, of course, all her traveling companions—the wonderful friends and family that made every trip more enjoyable.

More important, Mary Lou continues the legacy of her mother, supporting various organizations such as the Philippine General Hospital, Don Bosco School, and the Cultural Center of the Philippines, for a life that, just like her father’s and mother’s before her, balances social graces with grace of heart.

A final note: As a testament to the chicness of both Mary and Mary Lou, the mother had impressed upon her daughter the value of dressing well for travel at a young age. At 16, while on her first European tour, before attending Mary Mount, Mary Lou recalls being immaculately dressed in a navy blue suit punctuated with a string of pearls and a pair of brand-new shoes. Up to now, she still honors her mother’s lesson in style, preparing elegant yet practical clothes for trips to anywhere, whether it is the snow-filled valley of Jiuzhaigou in China or the warm beaches of Cannes in France.

Through the looking glass(es): Mary Lou, seen here in Russia, makes the most of every experience on her world tours.

PHILIPPINE STAR: What do you remember most of your first trip abroad?

MARY LOU PRIETO LOVINA: I was 16 then and was sent off to London to attend the Mary Mount International School, a boarding school exclusively for young girls. My traveling companions were my querida tia y madrina, Tita Mameng Caro, and my cousins, Rosarito Caro — now Augustines — and Raffy Prieto.

It was summertime and classes had not started yet. After meeting the school mistress, inspected the facilities, and buying our school uniforms at Harrods — parece mentira but that was the only place where you could get them — we soon embarked on our scheduled grand western European tour in style.

We had a huge chauffeur-driven car — don’t ask me the make, please — and sailed the English Channel bound for France. We proceeded to the French Riviera, where I stripped down to my bikinis in Cannes — it was the thing to do — while my cousins visited the casino in Nice. We crossed the Alps, where Raffy played in the snow, not having experienced it before. In Germany, my aunt had a mud bath in Baden-Baden, and then, onward we drove to Austria and Switzerland. Oye, it was such a marvelous trip — un viaje fabuloso.

However, listen to this: When we returned to London, I had to be quarantined at the hotel due to smallpox. Cousin Raffy could not stop laughing for he said I looked like a salami. But deep within me, I was not so miserable as classes were to start soon and I wanted the holiday to go on and on. (Laughs) It was a wonderful summer and, as the English would say — indeed! Oh, yes, I finally went to the boarding school within the beautiful grounds of Kingston upon Thames.

What won’t you leave home without?

I bring what I call my warmers — a shawl and a jacket, both of which originally belonged to my mother. Sadly, I suffer badly from the cold. Soy friolera. No matter how many sweaters I put on me, somehow there’s always a lack of warmth. The shawl is so practical. On one side, it’s beige and on the other side, it’s brown. It has fox or mink tails hanging from the edges. The jacket is one made of mink. This piece, I would not get rid of. I put this on when it’s really cold. Friends tease me that it must be mother’s warm embrace that keeps me warm. I just sit and smile. Que mas puedo decir.

Describe your present passport photograph.

Horrible, as in horrible. It shows a face without makeup and, to make it worse, the hair needed a trim. No, it needed a haircut. Te digo, h-o-r-i-b-l-e. (Laughs)

How would you pass time at airports?

I totally love to relax at the lounge and have all sorts of picas and some drinks, while scanning the pages of ladies’ or lifestyle magazines. There’s no running around to shop. That sets the tone for the flight and the trip, as well. I just love airport lounges — pure and simple.

Who is your ideal traveling companion?

Mis padres, sin duda. Traveling with them was both such a classy and classic act — one that is difficult to outshine. Besides, for the longest time, my dad was the president of the Manila Jockey Club, and every year, the club had their congress of all the presidents of the associations from around the world with their wives and some members of their families in tow. At times, yo tenia la buena suerte of joining them. I remember being billeted in gorgeous properties, including the Meurice Hotel in Paris and the Hotel Bernini in Rome, where the presidents and their families would be hosted by international dignitaries and global celebrities like the legendary Aga Kahn.

Street tour: Conchita Toda, Mina Montes, Mary Lou, and Isabel Araneta in front of the Catholic Cathedral in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam.

Other ideal traveling companions would include Carolyn Manning, before she permanently resettled back in the States, Nikki Coseteng, and Thelma Gana, with whom I would explore a number of off-the-beaten-track destinations around Asia. Lately, my list includes mis dos hijas, who are a delight and fun to be with whenever we visit both familiar and newly discovered areas here and abroad.

What is the first thing you do upon checking in at a hotel?

I instantly draw the drapes and take a shower. If it’s a city I previously visited, I stay in bed, read, watch the news on television, and try to relax. However, if it’s a place I’ve never been to, it’s a quick drop of my maletas, a not-so-leisurely shower, a speedy dress-up, and then out the room I go to join the rest of the ladies. Where to? Wherever the little group goes — usually an area some have read about or others have watched documentaries on or, better yet, some suggestions from friends.

What do you consider a must-do activity in every foreign city that you visit?

Ya sabes, me encanta the opera and the ballet. I would plan and sort of schedule my trips to coincide with what the city has to offer in the field of entertainment. If it’s the ballet season, I must catch it in London and, for the opera, it’s New York. A couple of years back, when I spent Christmas in San Francisco, I enjoyed A Christmas Story with Mr. Scrooge and all that. It was so heartwarming. The timing was perfect.

Describe your most memorable trip.

The year was 2005 when I joined Thelma Gana, a veteran China junkie. We took a plane that landed in Jiuzhaigou Valley, near the Nepalese border, in an airport that recently opened. Our hosts handed out little oxygen masks with specific instructions on its usage. Having survived Machu Picchu during my younger days, I simply didn’t bother. Well, the bus that took us on the trip went on zigzags for over an hour. Upon our arrival at our final destination, I peeked out the window and saw snow over an entire virgin forest of ferns. What a sight — awesome, overwhelming! We crossed a tiny bamboo footbridge and noticed a little, flowing stream down below. Everything was so clean, completely pristine. The next day’s schedule included a tour of a nearby lake, which I had to miss due to the funny sensation that my head was playing on me. Remember the little oxygen mask? Well, there you are. I soon learned my lesson and caught up with the group’s other activities. Later in the day, I remember seeing all the green, red, and blue stones in the stream, because the water was still so clear.

What do you miss most when you’re away from home?

The plain comforts of home. In addition, I miss the manicure and pedicure, the hair trim, and the hair coloring. No one does it better than my manicurista and hairdresser. No one beats them. Te aseguro.

What is the best travel advice you were given?

It may sound very basic. Perhaps, it may even make you feel un poco stupido. (Laughs) But it always makes great sense to have with you, at all times, a business card of the hotel you’re presently staying at — complete with all contact details. It will save you a lot of grief.

For example, I once got lost in San Francisco, a city that I know like the back of my hand. I was staying at a private residence at the time. One day, even if my sense of direction was nothing to write home about, I went out to explore the area by myself. I was walking down one way and must have missed my turn. I just kept on walking, turning on some streets along the way, until my legs finally gave up. I entered a little shop and ordered some food. I asked someone, “Could you please do me a favor? I want to get home, but I don’t know how.” He asked me what the address and telephone number of my place was, and I just told him it was around the vicinity, but I didn’t know exactly where it was. So he called for a cab. The cabbie asked me the same questions. In the end, he drove me around the area, and we finally ended up on Sacramento Street. It was a familiar sight and I knew where to go from then on. My daughter told me that she thought I was lost. And I was! But, really, you can never get lost in a city that’s as friendly as San Francisco.

What has been your strangest trip?

Belles of the ball: Mary Lou and good friend Georgina Padilla Zobel de Ayala de Mac-Crohon, both elegantly dressed, prepare for a party at the Prieto ancestral home in Forbes Park.

Outer Mongolia. I was with my travel buddies, Carolyn Manning, Mina Montes, and Isabel Caro Wilson. It was such an experience! Imagine staying in tents and using a tabo for your baths and a porta potty as your toilet. Then, on a day trip to see a festival, the tire of our car blew and our driver had to change it. We were in the middle of nowhere with nothing to do, so we just did calisthenics to entertain ourselves! When we finally reached our destination, we found the silver lining of our little adventure — a dinner show with acrobats. We also visited a cashmere factory, where we stocked up on the softest shawls and coats.

Let’s talk favorites now. Name your favorite city abroad.

Though my stay was brief, Amsterdam won me over! I found it to be una ciudad muy linda. I fell in love with the canals, the architecture of the buildings, the trees. It has so much character, and yet it is so underrated.

Favorite spot in the Philippines?

Several. Before, it was magical Zamboanga, exotic and mystical! I was captivated by the Lantaka Hotel by the Sea, where I would see gypsies on colorful vintas. The nearby island of Santa Cruz was isolated, and it had pinkish-peach sand due to its pink corals. There was also the tree house in the flower-filled Pasonanca Park. The houses on stilts felt so remote and mysterious. Today, it’s Bohol. It’s really a complete destination with something for everyone — heritage, nature, beaches, adventure, food. You name it, and they have it. In the days of my youth, it was Boracay. (Laughs) Long, long time ago — as they say, once upon a time — the place was very raw. There was neither power nor basic amenities, and the only way you had your food cooked was with a grill. But even now that I’m older, I still enjoy Boracay with its many luxurious hotels and resorts, spa pampering, and wide choice of food.

Favorite airlines?

I love my own, my Philippine Airlines. En serio, after being away, its service — courteous, friendly, warm — is truly a welcome feeling. They have the best airline pilots, too. No one beats them with their landing — absolutely the smoothest. No hay otro igual.

Favorite airport?

I was fond of the old Kai Tak Airport, which, even if it was small, was very efficient. I’ve always had this fear of big, new airports, because I felt they would be chaotic and unmanageable. But the Hong Kong International Airport — I can never recall the complete proper name (laughs) — is surely different. To my delight, it has pulled it all together. It runs how it should be — seamlessly.

Favorite museum?

I’m very proud of our own Ayala Museum. Of all the permanent exhibits, I’m most impressed by the Gold of Ancestors collection, their blue-and-white collection, their celadon pieces, and the works of Fernando Zobel. I likewise look forward to their rotating exhibits. Sabes, we spent so many happy moments there.

Favorite hotel?

Hotel Barceló Formentor in Mallorca, Spain. It’s on top of a little mountain. I liked it even better when they told me it was famous. Celebrities would stay there! (Laughs)

Favorite resort?

Our very own Amanpulo. When you arrive, they know your name and address you as such, and that always touches my heart. (Smiles) You also get a free massage and free champagne. You have your own cottage and a golf cart with or without a driver. You can go to the library and get very good films. For all three meals, I remember we had the services of an excellent chef. I find that, if you want to have that much-desired personal time by the sea, go to Amanpulo. The beach is cleaned constantly and continuously. Everything is so tranquil. Plus, the service is top-notch, and yet you never see or feel the attendants. In fact, you don’t see anyone. That’s paradise right there!

Favorite building?

As a student, I used to live in a little, old-fashioned building with wrought-iron elevators in Paris. It was most charming. I was living with a French couple with two female roommates, one Russian and another Spanish. They were studying at Sorbonne, one of the first universities in the world, while I was at Mademoiselle Anita’s. Madame Thibierge, our landlady, would only serve us salad and cheese all the time. Eternally! I don’t know why I didn’t lose weight. (Laughs)

I also liked the whole area. It had a village feel, and everyone was friendly to one another. Across my building was the Île Saint-Louis, a little island on the river Seine. What a view! Around the same vicinity, I would frequent daily favorites — a newsstand, a florist, a tiny café, where I often had a cup of coffee. And guess who walks in one day? The actor George Hamilton! The second time I saw him was in Hollywood during my visit to L.A., and my legs turned to jelly. He came often to the Philippines as a guest of Madame Imelda. I saw him a number of times here. Increíble!

Favorite musical or play?

Sin duda — Cats. Lo vi en Londres, Nueva York, y en Manila. I like it better than any of the other musicals, and I must say I love the London production, which I saw twice with my dad, best of all. The fellow who portrayed that tom cat role did it so convincingly well that it felt like he was undressing you.

Favorite mall or store?

Macy’s in San Francisco. It’s a place where you can find everything that you need. It reminds me of El Corte Ingles stores all over Spain. Besides, you get good value for your money because their prices are reasonable.

Favorite restaurant?

I really don’t have one. We serve Filipino and Spanish dishes at home. So whenever I eat out in Manila or during my travels, I always yearn for Japanese, French, and Chinese cuisine, in that order. Nowadays, when my children are with me, we often end up in Sala Bistro in Makati.

Name an event anywhere in the world you would like to participate in?

Several come to mind. I want to watch once again the Bolshoi Ballet — the entire corps — in any Russian city and Giselle in London. Also, the opera Aida at the Colossuem in Rome complete with all the horses, any opera at La Scala in Milan and, would you believe, as strange as it may seem, a live rock show. I was going to tell my daughters to take me to the Smart Araneta Coliseum when one of these rock stars would come over to perform.

What are the pasalubongs that you bring from the Philippines?

Outbound — my friends have everything — que suerte tienen — and don’t long for anything. They just want me to hurry over and spend more time with them. Inbound — oh, I bring small items for those in my service — my most loyal driver, my full-of-ideas cucinera, and other members of my household. Pequeñas cosas como T-shirts y colonias.

What is the worst souvenir you have ever brought back from a trip?

Lo siento but I can’t thing of any, though I can share with you some excellent buys. I’m constantly on the lookout for perfumes in small bottles for tiny, tiny evening bags where nothing really fits.

Aside from unpacking your suitcase, what is the first thing you would do upon returning home?

No matter what time of day or night I get home, I always have a home-cooked meal. Oftentimes, I have arroz caldo or chicken cooked with tofu.

Name a city you have never visited but would like to someday?

I’ve recently been to Moscow and St. Petersburg. I wish to see other, shall we say, secondary Russian cities, too.

Name a country that you wish to explore.

España, sin duda. I wish to take an extended land trip crisscrossing the land desde el norte al sur con mis dos hijas.

What would you say is the best part of travel?

Nuevas experiencias. New sights to experience, new people to meet, new food to enjoy… The list is endless.

What would you say then is the worst part of travel?

The long plane rides. It terrifies me. Why can’t we just have a time capsule, and, in an instant you’re at your desired destination? If only that was possible! Let’s just say I love to travel but I don’t enjoy the process of getting there. (Laughs)

If you could reside anywhere in the world, aside from the Philippines, where would it be?

San Francisco. I spent so much time there through the years and have wonderful memorable memorias de mis padres and my daughters. It’s really my second home.