The day I stalked the whale sharks in Sumilon

Every now and then, we are blessed with moments of the surreal and spectacular and our lives are never the same again. Being whisked off to a paradise of eco-luxury, we feel much closer to the one who created it all.

An invitation to swim with the whale sharks of Sumilon in Oslob, Cebu captured my attention as I actually monitor these glorious creatures to determine which part of the world they are at a certain time of the year. Call me a whale shark stalker but this really is one of my ultimate passions. In fact, I have a map of their migration route alongside my world map dotted with my own travels. Never in my wildest dreams did I imagine swimming with 12 of them, all at one time in Sumilon.

Here in the tropical tranquility of the well-appointed Bluewater Sumilon Island Resort owned by gracious Julie Alegrado, a comfortable three-hour drive away from Cebu City or a brief 45-minute boat ride from Dumaguete, it has been reported that fishermen have been feeding these gentle giants since September last year. Photos on social media reveal this incredible reality but like I often declare, some things are better experienced than explained. This new method of attracting this herculean fish stirred some controversy and I was determined to find out for myself what all the frenzy was about. Cannes Palme d’Or winner for best director Brillante Mendoza had just shot a film here and he confirmed to me that they come around 5 a.m. to 1 p.m. daily. Just two minutes by boat from the shore, you will find them feeding gently, patiently and graciously.

The mangrove-rich lagoon at Bluewater Sumilon Island Resort is a perfect place to kayak.

Julie shared that it was in June last year when the whale sharks, led by the seven-meter-long “Fermin,” would feed on the fish that the fishermen were trying to catch. At first, the fishermen considered the whale sharks to be competing with their catch until they realized they should feed these whale sharks so they would frequent the area much more. Every day since, rain or shine, they have been coming to this area where the cerulean waters are as clear as the sky. Truly, the efforts of this first-ever declared marine sanctuary in Cebu has proven to be worth it because today, Sumilon has become the whale shark habitat of the region. Successful in their initial actions, the local government, the private enterprise and the local community work together for the preservation of their marine resources. How long will these graceful creatures feed like pets from the hands of these fishermen? How long can we enjoy the privilege of swimming with them? Only God knows.

Before meeting these gentle giants of the sea, we first enjoyed the three-hour scenic drive from Cebu City’s Bluewater Maribago Beach Resort to Bancogon, Oslob. The excitement of each member of our group was palpable but nothing could beat the eagerness of Kay Cinco Rodriguez, 19, of Houston, Texas and a freshman at Rice University, who went into a frenzy taking pictures of every sight she saw.

Upon setting foot in the paradisiacal Bluewater Sumilon Island resort, we were ushered into a gentler world, impressively quiet and divinely peaceful. We were welcomed by amiable general manager Ed Navas and his equally compassionate and competent staff. After a light snack, we trekked the 24-hectare island and found, at the end of this rocky promontory, the sandbar of our dreams that resembles the ones in the Maldives. This is fondly called the “Shifting Sandbar” because its shape varies depending on the movement of the tides. Sometimes it is oval, sometimes elongated, sometimes C-shaped. Swimming here is like frolicking in the clearest sea devoid of fish due to the absence of coral. The tides and the waves, however, can become so powerful they can lash you away in an instant. There is a reliable lifeguard till 4 p.m. daily, at which point the sandbar is off limits to swimmers.

The rocky promontory of Bluewater Sumilon Island Resort, the first marine sanctuary, is now a whale-shark habitat.

We had a fabulous hilot massage in the alfresco pavilion overlooking the azure waters. Reminiscent of a scene from Mamma Mia in Santorini Greece, my heart smiled as these blessings unfolded right before us.

Dinner was set by the lagoon where the freshest seafood and fine meats complemented by delicious brazo de mercedes, piña colada and lime mojitos. Kay played her favorite songs on her ukulele to our delight. Ed shared that the resort offers a popular activity called glamping where guests can stay in cozy tents beside the lagoon that is perfect for kayaking and fishing.  

We retreated to our cozy air-conditioned lodging in anticipation of what the next day would bring. Before we dozed off, we prayed fervently for a successful encounter with the gentle denizens of the deep.

The sun was beginning to rise as we had a hearty breakfast of fried danggit, fried squid, garlic fried rice, scrambled eggs, fruits and cereals. Right after, we embarked on our much-awaited date with the whale sharks. My heart skipped a beat. Would they come to greet and welcome me? Would they stay to play? Would they take me with them through the silvery waters of the ocean deep? Or would they decide to make me wait another day?

My date with the whale sharks was an answered prayer. As we approached the cove that was designated as our meeting place, I knew they would keep our date. It was, like true love, a date with destiny.

The Tumalog Falls resemble umbrellas from where gentle rain showers fall.

They did come — an army of them — to meet me. This close encounter with these denizens of the deep was a heavenly, surreal experience. Twelve whale sharks, ranging from six to nine meters, circled around our boat. I was in tears as we went up close and personal with these grand yet gentle creatures who were feeding on krill. The whale shark is a filter feeder whose formidably sized mouth passively sucks in everything in its path.

Another magnificent attraction you should not miss in Oslob is the heavenly Tumalog Falls, which resemble umbrella-like stone formations. As you stand beneath the gushing falls, clean, icy-cold water like Evian mist spray drenches your entire body.

Our farewell dinner was lovingly prepared by GM Ed and his staff. They laid-out alfresco luau spread by the sandbar replete with tables, cushions on the sand, candles and torches. There was also a bonfire to keep us warm from the chilly evening. Our feast consisted of a clambake of crabs, prawns and giant diwal. There were also grilled squid, salmon, steamed rice, chocolate cake and other pastries. The winds in Sumilon blow as if they wish to convey a message to you. When we arrived, the wind kissed our cheeks to welcome us. In the evenings, they blew gently as we dined under the stars and candlelight. Later at night, they were howling as they shook the trees dramatically. Perhaps the winds were celebrating with us because we had spotted several whale sharks.

Under the starless night, we savored life’s best and priceless treasures.

I have been to many places around the world but didn’t expect that it would be here in our very own backyard that I would have a surreal encounter with these glorious denizens of the deep. I can proudly say that witnessing this spectacle touched my heart as I realized that immense trust is involved here. The whale sharks trust that the fishermen will feed them, protect them, while man trusts that the whale shark will not harm him, toss him around or even drag him down to the ocean deep.

At this point, I can only say we truly have a mighty and awesome God who created such magnificent animals and this same Creator made it possible for all to live in harmony, unity and peace. This is what the world and its citizens have been attempting to achieve.

The freshest catch of the sea lovingly prepared by the chefs of Bluewater Sumilon Island Resort

Once you have experienced something so stunningly surreal, it becomes a part of your glorious memories. Just close your eyes and you are back there in that state of nirvana, where time stands still for that one solitary moment and you wish it could last forever. My life will never be the same again after this close encounter with a very special kind. A chance to swim with these powerful yet gentle creatures poses the ultimate thrill. They say on earth there is no heaven, only bits and pieces of it. This experience will certainly prove that the ethereal exists in our midst.

Do set a date with the whale sharks in Sumilon. I assure you, they will come.

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For more information on Bluewater Sumilon Island Resort located at Bancogon, Oslob, Cebu, Philippines, please call  (63 32) 481-0801 or 516-7236. E-mail sumilon@bluewater.com.ph or log on to www.bluewater.com.ph.

 Philippine Airlines flies to Cebu daily, call 855-8888.

E-mail the author at miladay.star@gmail.com.

Bluewater Sumilon nostalgic lighthouse baluarte is located right on the property of the resort.