Stargazing in Atacama
As a child, I had always been fascinated by things I could not understand, things that seemed beyond my reach. All I knew was that one day I would venture out to experience the world as I dreamt it to be beautiful, impeccable, mind-boggling, made in the image of God who is the source of it all.
High up in the Andes Mountains at the bottom of the earth in the northern part of Chile lies a billion-dollar scientific project known as ALMA (Atacama Large Millimeter/Submillimeter Array). An international partnership of Europe, North America and East Asia in cooperation with the Republic of Chile, it is the largest astronomical project in existence. ALMA is a single telescope of revolutionary design, composed initially of 66 high-precision antennas located on the Chajnantor plateau, 5,000 meters above sea level. This project aims to solve the mysteries of the universe.
Wildlife abounds in the dramatic and mysterious Chajnantor plateau at 16,500 feet above sea level where the telescopes are located. It is interesting to note that portions of the James Bond film Quantum of Solace were filmed in this vicinity. An invitation to visit this site from my childhood friend from Colegio San Agustin in Makati, Tony Rodriguez, a Filipino who is currently the lead antenna IPT engineer at the US National Radio Astronomy Observatory, elicited sheer excitement. Tony, who is the grandson of Filemon Rodriguez who was at the helm of the National Power Corporation and founder of Phinma in the past, is proud to share that “scientists from around the world will soon employ this remarkable facility to probe the very first stars and galaxies, and directly image exo-planets, possibly discovering the first traces of life.”
Tony added, “ALMA will open a new window to celestial origins, capturing never-before seen details about the very first stars and galaxies in the universe, probing the heart of our galaxy, and directly imaging the formation of planets. It is the largest leap in telescope technology since Galileo first aimed a lens on the universe. Currently, half of the 66 radio telescopes can be moved to span 10 miles of desert, creating nearly 71,000 square feet of radio light collecting area. By next year, the observatory will be open to the public.”
Valley of Death, also called “Valle de la Muerte,” is characterized by mostly craggy hills of sand and rock formations. One can go sand boarding down one of its sand dunes.Photos courtesy of ALMA, Awasi Resort and Tony Rodriguez With Aerolineas Argentinas GSA-managing director Menchie Gregorio, Tony and I paid a courtesy call to Chilean Ambassador Roberto Mayorga Lorca in Manila, who expressed his excitement and support for this amazing breakthrough.
I thought that when I visited Tibet, which is located at an altitude of 15,000 feet, it would be the highest that I could take. The Chajnantor plateau at 16,500 feet above sea level is the height to beat. It is interesting to note that portions of the James Bond film Quantum of Solace were filmed in this area.
I asked Tony why they built the ALMA project here and he was quick to reply that the Atacama Desert is the driest place on earth and humidity distorts the electromagnetic signals received from outer space. Also, it has the best conditions to view the stars since there are hardly any clouds due to low humidity. Did you know that in some places here, the homes and restaurants have no roofs since it hardly rains?
To explore the Atacama Desert and its surreal shapes, dramatic volcanoes, scenic dry salt lakes, ponds and steaming waters emerging in the midst of the desert is to appreciate Mother Nature in her most powerful expression. The world’s most amazing telescope observatory is just 20 minutes away from the charming and quaint town of San Pedro de Atacama, a desert oasis town that has been a silent witness to the harshness of time and the evolution of ancient cultures.
Moon Valley also called “Valle de la Luna” is a dramatic terrain that resembles lunar formations. It is one of the most visited sights in the region. The premier address to stay in the Atacama desert is the posh Awasi resort located within the vicinity of the town of San Pedro de Atacama. Awasi is a luxury boutique hotel, but not of traditional luxury; rather of luxury defined by personalized service and details. Awasi comes from the words wasi or huasi, meaning home or house in the ancient language Aymara.
Elaine Roman, Hotel PR shared, “We were looking for a place to lodge, in an intimate, comfortable environment with touches in perfect harmony with the culture and the nature of the land, which surroundings would invite us to a rediscovery, contemplation and enjoyment of the soul. Unable to find such a place, we decided to create it.”
Thus Awasi was opened in November 2006. It is the only property in the Atacama region to be part of the prestigious Relais & Châteaux Association. This is a true distinction for Awasi and for San Pedro de Atacama as a tourist destination. Located a few blocks from the town square, the antique church and museum, it is ideal for guests who wish to enjoy the “life of town” in comfort, and to know what life was like and still is in the millennial Atacama oases. In the heart of town, art, jewelry, and clothing stores abound and many quaint restaurants offer al fresco dining with candlelight and bonfires during the cool evenings.
Roman added that the resort was constructed with the intimacy and comfort of each guest in mind, while respecting the natural surroundings, the culture and the local architecture. There are only eight cottages, all of them built out of stone, adobe and wood. Each cottage is over 500 sq.ft. with a private patio, a reading armchair and a solarium. Reservations must be made at least six months before arriving.
Awasi resort was constructed with the intimacy and comfort of each guest in mind, while respecting the natural surroundings, the culture and the local architecture. At Awasi, outings are individual and private, personally tailored for each guest customized for the most adventurous, for the faithful hiker, for the lover of heights, and for those who just want to be surprised. An Awasi jeep with professional guides is always available for private excursions so guests can plan according to their own preference and pace. For maximum safety, all vehicles are equipped with a GPS unit and VHF or satellite telephones.
Take a private astronomy tour to be able to appreciate the clearest skies in the world.
The Valley of the Moon, also called “Valle de la Luna,” is one of the places on earth that most resembles the moon. It has a very unusual landscape where many lunar movies were filmed. Many walking trails, rock formations, ruins and caves abound in this national park, which has both large sand dunes and rock formations. It was a surreal experience hiking the beautiful trails and enjoying the beautiful scenery and views from high up. Right beside this national park is the Valley of Death, also called “Valle de la Muerte,” with mostly craggy hills of mud and rock formations. Hiking through the valleys and sand boarding down the large sand dunes is definitely an experience to remember.
A visit to the dry salt lake Chaxa, a national reserve, was also an out-of-this-world experience. This underground lake has a very high salt content and is often compared to the Dead Sea in salinity. No fish thrive in these waters but many varieties of birds live here including the famous flamingos, which are perfect to watch during sunset since these birds fly from one side of the lake to the other at this time.
For the love of lamb: Savor the epicurean cuisine in Awasi Resort, the only property in the Atacama region to be part of the prestigious Relais & Châteaux Association. Cejar Lake is a set of three very salty ponds where you are allowed to swim. The landscape is completely flat and offers an open view of the Andes Mountain Range. When we swam in these lakes, we realized the temperature of the water was very warm compared to the outside air. The deeper you went the warmer the water got. Due to its high salinity, it was very easy to float but after a swim, rinsing with fresh water is needed to remove the salt from your skin.
A stone’s throw from the town of San Pedro de Atacama are the ruins of the fortress Quito built on the side of a hill where you can climb to the top and see the most spectacular views of the landscape and mountain ranges. From Chile, you can also visit the picturesque Easter Island known to be among the world’s most isolated marvels.
Who would have ever thought that in this lifetime, man would be able to create such magnificent breakthroughs such as the ALMA telescope observatory in the most spectacular region of the Atacama in the desire to make known the mysteries of the universe? It is humbling to realize that anything is possible.
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For further inquiries on Awasi Resort, visit
Tony Rodriguez, a Filipino who is the lead QA Antenna IPT engineer of the US National Radio Astronomy Observatory, poses in front of a North American antenna at the Vertex site. The shortest route to Chile from the Philippines with a same day connecting flight to Santiago may be availed via the transpolar route on Aerolineas Argentinas from Sydney, Australia or the transpacific route via Tokyo, Japan on Aeromexico.
Travel Excellence Corp., GSA for Aerolineas Argentinas, Aeromexico and Czech Airlines, can be reached at 892-6012; 553-7200; and 818-7970 or email at
travelexcellencecorp@yahoo.com.
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