Amanbagh: Opulent oasis in Rajasthan
A Hollywood actor once said: “Do not be afraid that your life will end. Be afraid that it will never begin.”
We live to travel and travel to live. To be passionate about exhilarating destinations is as necessary as breathing for those who wish to attempt to satisfy their otherwise insatiable wanderlust. It has been said by many a poet that what lies behind us and before us is not as significant as what lies within us.
In the middle of a sacred valley in the Ajabgarh in Rajasthan, India lie the ancient hunting grounds of the royal family. The Maharajah Jai Singh camped here in the 19th century during his hunting expeditions in the dense jungles of Sariska where the wilds provided abundant game for his pursuit. During cool crisp seasons of the year, the high and mighty echelons would converge at Ajabgarh. In luxurious grace, the maharajah and his men spent precious time in such sacred grounds and created memories of well-spent vacations and celebrations. A sacred Hindu temple, Barakhambi, where the sounds of chanting bells resonate through the valley, can be found in this valley. It was a resident sadhu or holy man who predicted that this site would be the most ideal for a very special kind of resort.
From the Sanskrit word for peace, aman, and the Hindu word for garden, bagh, is an illustrious Aman property in Rajasthan. Truly an opulent oasis. Today, this honor can only be bestowed on the Amanbagh, an opulent oasis of pink sandstone and marble architecture surrounded by mature palms, fruits and eucalyptus trees within a walled compound of former royal hunts. The bespoke spirit of the regal Moghul era resonates in this surreal haven where 24 haveli suites and 16 pool pavilions around a main swimming pool provide a restful refuge where the rich heritage of Rajasthan’s frontier is reverently respected and known for.
Rajasthan is after all known as the Land of Kings — a kingdom of fortresses that are perched high above the mountains or at the edge of the arid expanse of the Thar desert. The colors that epitomize this sartorial sanctuary are hues of pink, salmon, gold and white. In this land of juxtaposed contrasts, every corner radiates eclectic color and culture. Beautiful varieties of fabrics, jewelry, quilts, clothes, beddings, dwellings, linens and even ancient art proliferate here. From Jaipur, which has earned the moniker the “Pink City” for the color of its impressive walls, monuments of preserved wealth and palaces built in pink sandstone, we took a three-hour scenic drive aboard a land cruiser driven by the friendly Amanbagh chauffeur named Rambabu. Amanbagh belongs to the illustrious Aman properties. Just a few kilometers away is another glorious Aman property called Aman-i-khas, a royal tented camp in the middle of the wilderness.
From Jaipur, we passed exuberant fields of yellow dal and mustard blooms like a scene from the French impressionist painter Monet against a backdrop of dramatic mountains, antiquated fortresses, beasts of burden alongside women working in the fields in their colorful saris and men selling marble wares and hot masala tea. We reached the ruins of what Rambabu described as a haunted edifice that was reportedly under the mighty spell of black magic and this was the reason for the exodus of people from here to Jaipur.
Experience the dramatic culture and heritage of ancient Rajasthan, a photographer’s dream. Who would have thought that at the end of what appears to be an ordinary road in the middle of a verdant valley that resembles Provence in France, with its lavender-tinted hills seeming to dance with abundant yellow blooms, there exists a place of such ethereal beauty and majestic splendor, timeless and ageless at that? Today, only present pleasures beckon at Amanbagh, reminiscent of the grand era of the maharajahs. GM Tim Weiland welcomed us to the lovely grounds, the Moroccan-inspired pink building with a magnificent pool in the middle, well-manicured lawns and a loving staff to take care of our every desire.
Executive chef GSN “BG” Bharghav showed us how all the fresh food is prepared and even gave us a tour of his herb and veggie garden as he explained how he plans his menus according to the harvest of his produce. Our hearty lunch was served at the dining terrace. Chef’s recommendations here are sarson dhor mach, a delicate sole fillet of fish poached in yoghurt stone-ground mustard and mango kozhi varuval, which is a tender chicken stir-fried with cinnamon and curry leaves served with kerala parathas (18 spices in coconut milk ). Also a must-try is their kache gosht ki biryani (a lamb and rice dish sealed in a pot of mint and spices).
This is Amanbagh, where all clocks seem to stop as we surrender to the enigmatic assault of the senses. A veranda of Indian art, a welcoming ceremony with angelic singing and flower wrist bands gently tied around our wrists made us feel as though we truly belonged to one special family. This is how you are treated at Amanbagh, with this signature hospitality, gracious and sincere. It is the magical experience that truly counts. This modern innovation to the nobleman’s mansion epitomizes the glory of Moghul architecture far from the crowds that gravitate towards Rajasthan.
Godhuli is a Hindu word that best describes the late afternoon for the cow dust tour when the cows are led home along the village road. A great way to explore rural Rajasthan. Aboard our jeep are Mike Mina, author Christine Dayrit, Jaqui Boncan, Michelle Soliven and Rita Trinidad. At Amanbagh, my gregarious sisters Michelle and Jaqui together with my childhood friend Rita Trinidad and our Miladay Jewels creative consultant Mike Mina literally fell in love with their respective posh two-bedroom Terrace Haveli suite and refused to leave their room because they felt so attached to such beauty and grandeur. Executive chef BG was looking for all us at the dining room since a special dinner was prepared. Our rambunctious group was ready for our pajama party in our terrace and we were already garbed in our comfortable Amanbagh robes; thus chef BG resorted to sending the five-course meal elegantly served on silver at the terrace of our suite. Under a star-strewn sky, a cool breeze kissing our faces, with the magnificent view of the Amanbagh gardens and impressive well-lit pool like an aquamarine mirror, we dined unforgettably. The delightful cuisine included red pepper pineapple soup, trio of prawns, croquettes and samosas with mango chutney, followed by the most flavorful aubergine curry and succulent lamb basmati. Peals of ecstasy filled the air as my sisters declared that the lamb biryani served us was the most succulent and delicious they had ever tasted. For a sweet ending, we had homemade crème brulee and local delicacies like kulfi and gulab jamu. Earlier in the day, chef BG had shown us how he makes fresh bread using dough made from brown flour, water and salt. He taught us how he prepares his dishes that authentically epitomize the taste of exotic Indian dishes the way the people of Rajasthan in Northwestern India have done for centuries. Masala tea served in silver pots were piping hot, its flavor so rich and aromatic. It may have been a chilly night but we were warmed by the satisfaction of our appetites.
It was a cool afternoon when we departed from Amanbagh by open jeep for a tour of the charming community where villagers welcomed us with genuine smiles and warmth. Just 15 kilometers from the resort lies the 17th-century Bhargath, a national heritage site that includes an entire city of bazaars, palaces, gardens, temples, bathing pools supposedly deserted overnight due to a curse. No wonder Bhangarh is known as the Abandoned City. Traditional Indian tea was served at the top of the Queen’s Palace overlooking the whole of Bhangarh and the valley beyond. Other outdoor activities include horseback riding, camelback rides, trekking and cycling. One can also tour the nearby Ajabgarth Fort and temple connected by an underground passageway, dine under the stars on a stone chatris while being serenaded by talented musicians. Shikara boat trips as well as lakeside picnic and yoga sessions can also be arranged.
When we left Amanbagh, we knew we were still the same people but something had touched us and changed our lives forever. The beauty, tranquility and the magnificence of the environment, the nature and character of everyone — their loving kindness, hospitality and respect for one another is a balm to the senses. We wouldn’t want to have it any other way.
At the end of the day, we are responsible for not only the choices we took that made us happy but those we denied ourselves. This is where the difference lies — why settle for forfeited endings when we can always embark on glorious new beginnings?
Amanbagh awaits.
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For more information, log on to http://www.amanresorts.com/amanbagh/home.aspx.
Philippine Airline flies to Delhi via Bangkok three times a week. Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. Log on to http://www.philippineairlines.com. Transfers to Amanbagh from Delhi and Jaipur by car, plane or helicopter can be arranged.
E-mail the author at miladay.star@gmail.com.
