My El Nido

MANILA, Philippines - It’s neither the distance nor the exoticness of a destination that makes travel an exquisite experience. A short flight less than an hour from Manila can do wonders to a weary soul.

Something different from the usual was evident in the small hangar that housed the ITI plane that would take us to El Nido, the famed resort in Palawan. No two-hour-long wait. No body inspection. None of the experience of being herded around like cows.

Mae Mangaoang of El Nido greeted me when I arrived. She was to be a constant, pleasant presence wherever I went during the next two and a half days. After a light snack and a safety briefing from an airline ground stewardess, we were off to the wild blue yonder.

I had been to El Nido before. There was the resort in Pangalusian island I visited in 1996 before it burned down, and some eight years ago, the family made a trip to Lagen. Both experiences were magical, to say the least.

I had been angling for a writing assignment that involved travel and so I was pleased to be invited on a two-night, three-day trip to Lagen and the new acquisition of El Nido Resorts in Apulit, formerly known as Club Noah.

We flew out of Manila at 3 p.m. on a Sunday and were in Lagen in less than three hours, counting the plane ride and two transfers aboard sea crafts. The same warm greetings, complete with singing, dancing and abundant smiles that greeted us eight years ago, were still there when we arrived at the resort dock. The eagerness of the staff that welcomed us touched this jaded traveler’s tired soul.

Lagen and Miniloc, the two El Nido resorts situated on Bacuit Bay, have a lot going for them. The ancient limestone walls and corridors, so ruggedly natural, strewn on islands dotting the bay are just awesome — beautiful beyond description. There are secret beaches, underwater delights, hidden islands, caves, flora, fauna and endless rock formations available to view or visit. Add to all these, the thrill of swimming in an unspoiled, unpolluted sea, a safe haven for marine life and host to one of the largest repositories of biodiversity on this side of the planet.

At day’s end: I had been angling for a writing assignment that involved travel. My wish was granted — a two-night, three-day trip to Lagen and the new acquisition of El Nido Resorts in Apulit, formerly known as Club Noah.

Before I got there, I wondered whether El Nido could still take my heart away considering that it would be my third time to visit the place. The answer came back to me in no time. As I looked around, the crisp wind caressing my face, I realized how foolish I was to doubt the enduring impact and awesome power of nature’s rock creations chiseled through millions of years by time, tide and rain. How could I, a mere mortal with a double-digit lifespan, even imagine being unimpressed by such majesty?

During a boat ride, I sat at the front of the vessel to take it all in while getting a tan. I was multi-tasking and doing my meditations amidst the breathlessly beautiful surroundings. Navigating between massive towering limestone wonders, I was totally present to God’s creation, absorbing everything with gratitude. While my skin darkened under the sun, my spirit soared in the searing beauty overload. 

My favorite spot in El Nido is a quiet setting called the Small Lagoon. One must pass through a hole in the rocks during low tide to get into it. Its appeal is raw and prehistoric. Its beauty, with its lush flora and occasional birds, stingrays and other creatures that find their way inside the lagoon, is unparalleled. This has to be the “adoration chapel” of nature in this part of the world.

Another favorite is Culasa, a private, quiet, out-of-the-way beach with a tiny frontage and interesting rock formations.

In truth, it is difficult to choose so-called favorite places in a place as rich and varied as El Nido. There are just too many picturesque sites everywhere. I find myself falling in love with practically every location I visit.

The staff at El Nido is amazing. They are trained to go out of their way to guarantee that a guest’s needs and whims are attended to and one has a truly pleasant stay.

The experience of a destination, whether near or far, is especially heightened when you meet and interact with the right people. I have taken many trips all over the world and nothing beats the warm, true Filipino hospitality in making one feel comfortable and very much at home. It is a major factor in having a truly memorable time.

The staff at El Nido is amazing. They are trained to go out of their way to guarantee that a guest’s needs and whims are attended to and one has a truly pleasant stay. I was asked about possible food allergies and dietary preferences. My room had small touches that spelled “caring,” decorated with small knick-knacks here and there. In and out of boats, helping hands are ready with towels and plastic bags to protect camera equipment from sea spray and other little things that ensure nothing spoils one’s holiday.

Guests were given an environmental briefing that explained how the island resorts handle their water resources and waste, and cautioned us against needless, harmful environmental impacts we may unwittingly cause. This was not a PR stunt but an earnest concern communicated to all visitors in the area.

We had a full day of sightseeing, and the next morning, we took a five-hour trip out of Lagen to Apulit Resort in Taytay Bay. It is a much smaller venue and, this being off-season, the pace here was relaxed, laid-back. Apulit is laid out in such a way that there is a lot of walking between rooms and to eating venues and activity places. After lunch, I went Hobie Cat sailing with the club manager, Franck Merot, who gamely and ably took me on his rig.

The major event of our visit to this resort was a trip to the caves at the back of the island. St. Joseph’s Cave is humongous and really impressive with its stalagmites and stalactites largely untouched. Our guide was a young man named Hiro who, between jokes, shared some fascinating facts about rock formations while we were spelunking in the cavernous cave rooms.

At the end of the day, I set up of my photo gear to capture the breathtaking El Nido sunset. I took dozens of pictures as the beauty of the scenery intensified every few seconds, mystifying me and my companions. As the colors turned from blue to gray, from yellow to deep orange, from gray to black, it seemed to me that God Himself was showing off, playing with my senses, and reminding not to take His greatness for granted. More than a fading light, I saw the dramatic exit of a glorious presence that gracefully gave way to nightfall.

During a boat ride, I sat at the front of the vessel to take it all in while getting a tan. I was multi-tasking and doing my meditations amid the breathlessly beautiful surroundings. I was totally present to God’s creation, absorbing everything with gratitude.

Mae Mangaoang told me that the company will soon be introducing attractive packages to entice more locals to enjoy what will soon be a string of four resorts, after Pangalusian is fully reconstructed. But even without the tour packages, I believe that some things are just worth the money it costs to be there. In this age of climate change and other earth-altering events that have transformed the landscape in many parts of the world, it is has become an increasingly rare treat to find places when one can find nature still in truly pristine condition.

Any way I look at it, these El Nido resorts, with their level of luxury set in what is probably one of the world’s last primeval destinations, are a wonderful deal. I will keep returning to El Nido to feed my senses and nurture my soul.

* * *

For inquiries on El Nido, call 894-5644, e-mail holidays@elnidoresorts.com or visit www.elnidoresorts.com

* * *

1) Tapping the Creative Universe (the six-session run): A cutting-edge experience. The most soulfully liberating workshop you can attend! Nov. 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 21 from 7 to 9 p.m. Call or write for info. Or check http://jimparedes-workshops.com. Warning: This workshop will probably leave life-long effects that will make you happier, and creative for life.

2) The last run this year. If you have been using your DSLR camera like a point and shoot, it’s time to learn how to use it properly. Basic Photography Workshop on Nov. 26, Saturday, 1 p.m. to 6:30 p.m. You must have a DSLR. Call 0916-8554303 or 426-5375 or write to jpfotojim@gmail.com.