Bohol, beyond the Chocolate Hills
Back in 2006, I attended the International Conference on Heritage Houses and Vernacular Architecture held in Tagbilaran City, Bohol. It was conducted not just to promote the restoration of grand old houses but to create public awareness of their significance in preserving and rebuilding local identity. It was a highly successful conference on heritage and culture; incidentally, the first of its kind in the country.
During that three-day stay, I discovered not only how rich Bohol was culturally and its beautiful natural sites, but also how proud Bol-anons are about their place. Though my heart was filled to the brim with Bohol’s food for the soul, it left me somewhat bitin – hankering, wanting, craving for that something which hadn’t quite captured my heart through my stomach literally. After all, one can only stare so much at the world-famous Chocolate Hills, no matter how awesome they may be. I left Bohol with grim memories of forgettable harried hotel meals, and the few times I was able to scurry out for a dining adventure with some like-minded souls (mutiny, I called it back then), it was the same unexciting grub served cold everywhere. If the stomach is indeed the way to a man’s heart, I left Bohol with a bleeding heart. I had literally been left cold out in the rain (pun intended).
Continuing our quest for the so-called Holy Grail among the best of Philippine regional dishes for our book project, Mary Ann and I were at a quandary whether to include Bohol at all, considering my past experience.
“Since I haven’t been there myself, why don’t you give it another chance?” she said. “Well, okay,” I replied, as it sounded more like a command.
That’s when I called our friend Lisa Suarez, whom I first met in Tagbilaran City at the heritage conference back in 2006 where her family’s circa 1830 ancestral house, the Casa Rocha-Suarez, was the conference’s centerpiece. Lisa, a sixth-generation Rocha, was born and raised in Manila. But during the course of her summer vacations in Bohol, she developed a unique and special attachment to the house of her forebears, the house that her father, Gregorio, grew up in. This explains why working on the house’s initial restoration in 2005 became a passion for her. She also comes from a family with a special culinary “pedigree” as far as Bohol is concerned. Her great-grand-aunts, known to the older generation as the “Hermanas Rocha,” started the pastry-making industry in the province and won top awards in national fairs for their legendary “hojaldres de Hermanas Rocha.” So it goes without saying, food — the love for and appreciation of it — is also very much a part of her heritage. And as far as her visits are concerned, food is always in the agenda. Just our kind of gal.
So it was Lisa whom I tapped to do a four-day itinerary food trip of Bohol. Once there, we were often joined by kindred spirits architect German Torero and Marianito Jose Luspo, both officers of Bohol Arts and Cultural Heritage Council or BACH. Together, the three are ardently active in promoting and protecting Bohol’s cultural heritage, its cuisine included. It was truly a memorable trip, made possible by the warm hospitality of our hosts, filling both our hearts and stomachs to the heavens.
Directory:
Amarela Resort: Panglao Island. Tel: +63-38-502-9497; fax: +63-38-502-9499. E-mail: reservations@amarelaresort.com. www.amarelaresort.com
Aup-Aup: Inday Campos. Tel: +63-38-504-9467; +63-928-399-9376; Maribojoc town, Bohol, towards the wharf past the big church.
Bohol Bee Farm Resort and Restaurant: Vicky Wallace. Dao, Dauis, Panglao Island. Tel: +63-38-502-2288; +63-917-304-1491. E-mail: vickywallace@boholbeefarm.com. Visit www.boholbeefarm.com.
Café Olegario: Poblacion Ubos, Loay, Bohol 6303. Tel: +63-917-304-0293
+63-38-538-9388; e-mail cafe_olegario@yahoo.com.
Casa Genaro Bed and Breakfast: Sitio Ubos, Causeway, Tagbilaran. Tel: +63-38-501-8910; +63-917-895-1157.
Cafe Lawis: Dauis Pilgrim-Heritage Center, Poblacion, Dauis. Tel: +63-905-231-1268; +63-38-502-3016. E-mail: armae28@yahoo.com.
Lic-Lic’s Sugba Tula Kilaw: Tel: +63-910-301-2193, across Manga Market, Tagbilaran, Bohol.
Lisa Suarez: For heritage and culinary tour inquiries +63-920-950-3799; e-mail melissa_suarez95@yahoo.com.
Sampaguita Broas and Sikwate: Baclayon. Tel: +63-38-540-9281.
Soledad Suites: Lou Square, J.C. Borja cor. M. Parras Sts. Tagbilaran. Tel: +63-38-411-3074; fax: +63-38-411-2117; email: _soledad@mozcom.com; visit www.soledad-suites.com.
