Iloilo, beyond 'batchoy' and 'biscocho'
Of all the Philippine destinations I’ve been to, it is perhaps Iloilo City that I’ve been to most frequently. Not only because of the warm hospitality of my aunt Dra. Alicia Tayag Saldaña and my cousins who live there, the general charming disposition of the Ilonggos, but also because of its plentiful nami (delicious) gastronomic delights the city has to offer that makes me keep coming back for more. It has been like my second home since I was bitten by that Ilonggo bug during my first visit in 1978. Over the years, I’ve found every excuse to go there, mainly to satisfy my craving for a whiff of that Ilonggo thing with fresh oysters, managat (mangrove jack fish), imbao (mangrove clams), diwal (angel wing clams), lampirong (scallops), lechon, batchoy and inasal (in that order). Though most of it is available in the metropolis, somehow it never tastes the same unless one goes back to the original scene of the crime.
Just the past two months alone, I found myself going there twice. The first time, I embarked on a mission to research (and of course eat) and photograph for a forthcoming book on the best of Philippine to-die-for dishes. And naturally, Iloilo is on top of my list — next to my home province Pampanga, of course, if you’ll pardon my bias. Three weeks later, I was there again having missed trying other dishes, coupled with the fact that it’ll be another chance to visit my “other” family (oh, really now?). This time around, my cousins Beboy and Chang Araneta brought me to other establishments which I’ve never been to before, discovering new and emerging theme restaurants that are adding texture to the Ilonggo food landscape, with a lot of exciting dishes that are fresh new takes on old standards.
Ever since my involvement with Kulinarya cookbook as co-author and food stylist, I never looked back on my freewheeling days, so to speak. I am now armed with a keener eye, plus a macro lens investment, more aware that there’s more to food dishes than one-dimensional grubbiness, or as something to merely wolf down. I have learned a trick or two from internationally famous food stylist Delores Custer, whose two previous workshops I attended; namely, that a food stylist’s job is more than just getting the food ready to have its picture taken, whether for print or video, but most importantly, to make it look not just appetizing but mouth-watering. If a reader sees a food picture that makes him drool over it, then the stylist has succeeded. The only downside now is the food always get cold while I tinker with my newfound gadget, coupled with the impatient looks I get from my companions. “Matagal pa bay yan? Gutom na kami!” is the usual complaint I get. “Ako rin gutom na, ha!”, I answer. If they only knew. Many times, in my haste to shoot the food, I get so-so photographs. I’ve solved the problem by ordering my own food just to tinker with it, then getting my revenge when I nibble on theirs. (Heh, heh!)
Fast becoming the hottest nightspot of choice is The Avenue, designed and built by Ilonggo architect Johnny Que only late last year. He opened four different restaurants in quick succession: Bauhinia — offering a fresh new take on Filipino cuisine; Mojave Grill and Steakhouse with its Tex-Mex fare and high-end steaks; Amalfi Cucina Italiana serving refined Italian fare beyond the usual pizzas and pastas; and Nothing But Desserts which offers the sweet tooth an array of irresistible nothing but. Que is by the same guy who built the national kiosk brand Waffle Time and Cofeebreak, his four-year-old coffee shop chain combining top-quality coffee and chocolate desserts in chic surroundings but at amazingly reasonable prices. He’s also into organic farming, supplying his family-owned Iloilo Supermarkets and other hotels and restaurants around the city.
One of the Ilonggo treats I never fail to buy every visit is the mazapan de pili of Tinapayan Bakesop of Evelyn Que at the Atrium. It’s been one of my must-eat or must-buy pasalubong items before flying home over the years. Coincidentally, there’s an ongoing chocolate festival, “Sinful Desires @ Tinapayan,” running until Oct. 31. Held annually for the last five years, it is the much-awaited, month-long celebration dedicated to chocoholics. Witnessing the launch firsthand, the chocolate spread was a visual feast. Tinapayan Bakeshop has been the venue for this festival wherein the latest and trendiest designs and flavors in cakes, pastries, breads and other chocolate goodies are featured and made available exclusively for the whole duration of the event. It prides itself on using only the finest ingredients. Every week, special chocolate cakes, bars and breads will be featured.
Directory:
Amalfi Cucina Italiana – The Avenue, Smallville, Diversion Road, Mandurriao.
Andres Special Pata – at the foot of Tabucan bridge, Mandurriao.
Bauhinia – The Avenue, Smallville, Diversion Road, Mandurriao. Tel: 033-329-6951.
Deco’s Original La Paz Batchoy – La Paz Public Market, Rizal St. Tel: 033-320-0725
Eugene Jamerlan – for culinary and heritage tours of Iloilo City. Tel: 0918-506-4776
Maridel Uygongco – home order: Tel: 033-320-8656.
Mojave Grill and Steakhouse – The Avenue, Smallville, Diversion Road, Mandurriao.
Nothing But Desserts – The Avenue, Smallville, Diversion Road, Mandurriao. Tel: 033-329-5815
Tinapayan Bakeshop – at The Atrium, Delgado, Jaro and Mandurriao.
Wilson Esperencilla Catering – Tel: 033-337-2358
