Batanes High
MANILA, Philippines - Forget the typhoon references. That is one misconception that will keep you from enjoying what could be the most beautiful place on earth. However, you cannot be completely faulted for it. After all, the weather bureau almost always uses Batanes as a reference point every time a storm comes along. Unsurprisingly, when we informed friends and family that we were off to Batanes, we got the exact same response, “Isn’t it stormy over there?”
As soon as we landed in the capital of Basco, we knew that it was about time we shattered this false impression of Batanes. For starters, it is sunnier than anyone would dare imagine! Despite the sun, the breeze is cooler and lighter. Most likely, it owes itself to the province’s proximity to the sea and natural surroundings. And Mt. Iraya, which overlooks the airport and the rest of the island, is impossible to miss.
Getting to Batanes now is easier — there is South East Asian Airlines (SEAIR) offering 11 flights a week, with second flights every Saturday, Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday. The flight takes 80 minutes. The frequency was unheard of in the past, but with more people discovering Batanes, the airline just had to accommodate more flights.
SEAIR vice president for commercial affairs Patrick Tan said, “When we introduced our Batanes flight, the public response was so great. As a leisure airline, SEAIR’s clientele is historically a tourist market. By bridging Batanes to the rest of the country, we are able to boost local commerce and tourism and show how traditional Batanes culture can coexist with the modern.”
To fully realize this, the airline has tied up with the Batanes Cultural Travel Agency (BCTA), which promotes the cultural heritage of Batanes. BCTA director Dr. Joel Mendoza said, “We want tourists to appreciate the Batanes culture and interact with local folks. BCTA is here to make that tour as comfortable and enjoyable as possible.”
Both Mendoza and Tan agree that Batanes is the best place for visitors who are after natural landscapes and seascapes. Truth be told, our stay in Batanes proved that point. It was positively sensory overload as we were guided through the most unique and eye-catching hills and valleys, seasides and coastlines. Batanes is likewise one huge cattle farm, so expect plenty of cows and goats along the way.
After dropping off our bags at the Batanes Seaside Resort, we proceeded with our Batan Island tour. First stop was Tukun, site of the country’s northernmost PAGASA station. Now you know why typhoons equal Batanes — this station is the reference point.
For the record, Batanes does not have wet and dry seasons. Owing to its close proximity to Taiwan, the province has fall (September to November), winter (December to February), spring (March to May), and summer (June to August).
“While Manila is being ravaged by typhoons, Batanes is all sun,” Mendoza said. It now makes sense to us who prefer longer summers: extend the season by going to Batanes from June to August!
We have seen pebble, white-sand, and black-sand beaches but never a boulder beach such as Valugan. It is the side of Batan Island where the Pacific Ocean comes in full view. The stones that cover the beach came from Mt. Iraya’s eruption in 400 AD.
With the rockiest part of our trip out of the way, we were brought to the Naidi Hills for the lighthouse and to Vayang Ranch (Rolling Hills) that not only provided lush greenery but also a spectacular view of the sunset. Now, trust us on this one. It is not every day that you get to witness a sunset that virtually sinks into a most unrestrained view of the ocean. In fact, just watching the sunset from any hill or cliff in Batanes is a treat unlike any other.
We looked forward to the next day’s trip to Sabtang, a 40-minute boat ride from Batan. Our friendly Ivatan friends told us a trip to Batanes would never be complete without visiting the smallest of Batanes’ three islands (the third one is Itbayat). And every time we had the chance, we heard the same thing: it is heaven on earth.
Judging from what we went through in Sabtang, we dare say that that declaration was an understatement. It is totally different to hear one thing and then to actually experience it.
Our first taste of the island was at Nakabuang Beach, which is known for its rock arch formation in a private cove. It was here where lunch of lobsters, fish, and turmeric rice was served on kabaya (breadfruit) leaves. Forever summer indeed.
A main attraction in Sabtang is Barrio Savidug, where the oft-pictured traditional houses are found. Moving along, we arrived in Chavayan, famous for its old houses, traditions, and hospitable villagers. It was here where we met 102-year-old Marcelo Hestarilo. Lucid, very much active (we found him merrily chopping vegetables in his spacious kitchen) and looking younger than men half his age, Hestarilo owes his longevity to fresh fruits and vegetables, seafood, and buco juice. Whenever he gets sick, he only uses medicinal plants and nothing else. A relative whispered to us that he shuns MSG in his diet. Noted!
His relative enthusiastically offered us the famous coconut crab, called tatus in these parts. Boiled to a strikingly bold coral hue, the crab was sweet and very tasty. The high-cholesterol fat actually tasted like coconut, which should not come as a shock considering this arthropod feeds on coconuts.
The tatus has the ability to crack open coconuts with its powerful pincers. Not for people suffering from high-blood pressure. Don’t think of turning it into pasalubong as it is prohibited to bring the creature out of Batanes.
Upon the suggestion of our Ivatan friends, we spent the night at Sabtang’s heritage center. The rooms are well appointed, and the bathrooms are surprisingly large. There are a fully equipped kitchen, a TV and a refrigerator, creature comforts for a minimal fee. The friendly staff told us it is so safe in Sabtang that people do not close their doors even at night. Electricity stops at midnight and resumes at 6 a.m. Since the building is right by the water, we decided to sleep at the terrace where, true enough, the sound of the waves woke us up in the morning.
We were sorry to leave — there’s always next time — as we had to check out the southern part of our Batan Island tour. As we headed out to the Chawa View Deck on our way to Mahatao town, we also confirmed another oft-repeated observation: it is impossible to take a bad picture in Batanes. Stand by the deck and take in another breathtaking view of the ocean and the island. 
Batanes is also home to old churches. Mahatao’s St. Charles Borromeo Church and Ivana’s St. Joseph the Worker Church are just some of the ones built in the 1700s. While in Ivana, we dropped by the celebrated Honesty Coffee Shop. Devoid of a staff, visitors are instructed to leave the money for their purchases. The store has become a symbol of Batanes’ honor system.
The Ivatans themselves, who are the nicest people we have ever met, made our experience in Batanes even more special. Truth to tell, they are successfully turning their place into a welcoming community.
“We have what we call a community stay program,” shared Batanes Gov. Telesforo Castillejos. “The Batanes house is the bedroom and the barangay is the reception area. The people there will even cook for you if needed. Visitors tell me that it is the Ivatans that they love the most about Batanes.”
He said visitors enjoy talking to the residents, whose simple life is something he is proud of. “There are no beggars and homeless people here. Everybody eats three square meals a day. Simplicity is key. I think that’s why city folks love it here; they can see that our happy lives are devoid of pressure and the so-called rat race.”
“Those who come to Batanes are after the rustic charm. They do not fly over here looking for modern-day conveniences. Whatever we have, they embrace wholeheartedly. It is great to have visitors who come here to understand and represent our environment and culture,” Gov. Castillejos said.
He is not the least worried that the frequency of visitors is a threat to their existence. After all, “our culture is very strong.” That’s for sure.
Well, days have passed since we returned to Manila, but our Batanes high has yet to dissipate. No other place could produce that kind of effect.
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For more information on SEAIR, call 849-0100 or log on to www.flyseair.com. Contact the Batanes Cultural Travel Agency at 813-0510 or 892-4006, e-mail at batanesculturaltravel@ya-hoo.com or visit its site at www.ba-tanestravel.com.
