Marooned (for a day) in Marrakech
March 25, 2007 | 12:00am
Play it once, Sam, for old times’ sake." This is probably the most unforgettable line in the movie Casablanca which starred Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman. Before you start thinking that I’m that old, excuse me! That movie was shown in 1942 and I was born in… secret! Basta!
Imagine what a thrill it was for me to learn that we were off to another city in Morocco that was just as exotic as Casablanca: Marrakech! An even bigger thrill was finding out that no visa was needed. Hurray! Located in North Africa, Marrakech is hot, humid and bustling with life. Nothing shy about the people or the culture here and everything is just full of color. Could I have been Moroccan in a previous life? My good friend Ben Chan could have been a souk trader, with his flair for business (just look at his Bench empire!).
Since this was my first time to visit, I had to make sure I at least knew something about my destination. And I also practiced saying a few basic French phrases to get by since French is understood by most people in Marrakech and Morocco. So I kept saying "Bonjour" and "Merci" and trying to get the right French accent over and over until Ben decided to change seats in the airplane. Sorry, Ben!
Marrakech or Marakesh is known as Al-Hamra or the Red City. Why it’s red was something I was bound to discover later. The best time to visit this city is from late March to mid-June when it’s springtime. However, our arrival here was in late September, which I think is so much better since the weather was more pleasant and the evenings were a lot cooler. It was a good thing that I was here right before the beginning of Ramadan or else there would have been nothing to see. Sayang ang miles!
The city seemed more alive, probably because, with Ramadan around the corner, their everyday enjoyment would soon be forbidden. Also, the great spots for sightseeing were open and that was something that we all looked forward to.
1.The Ben Youssef Medrasa. The Medrasa is a 16th-century Koranic learning school that is right next to a mosque with the same name. Islam is the predominant religion here in Morocco and, of course, we had to observe customs. We were lucky to be able to enter the school and admire the central courtyard that was open to the sky. Particularly interesting were the zellij mosaic tiles and carvings of Koranic inscriptions in the Moorish style.
2.Koubba Ba’Adiyn. Marrakech has several historical monuments that have survived the wars and changes throughout the centuries. One of these is the Koubba Ba’Adiyn, which is located in the outer courtyard of the Ben Youssef Mosque. This small, two-story pavilion has a shallow pool used for ritual purification and is made up of a series of arches supporting a dome. Inside the dome are intricate carvings. Having an ear for chismis, enterprising me overheard a few tourists saying that this was one of the early monuments to incorporate the Moorish style, which then spread to North Africa and Spain. You can learn something from gossip, too!
3.Majorelle Gardens and Museum of Islamic Art. What a discovery! This particular tourist spot is privately owned by the famous fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent. The botanical garden was created in the 1920s by French artist Louis Majorelle and his son Jacques. I loved the perfectly manicured gardens! The reflecting pools inside the garden perfectly set off the cacti, bamboo, coconut and banana trees. All those green shades were really refreshing to the eye. Inside, all the noise of Marrakech was reduced to a murmur. It was very Zen, indeed.
4.Bahia Palace. The word bahia means "brilliance" and this was exactly the goal of grand vizier Ba Ahmed who was regent of Morocco from 1894 to 1900. The palace seemed more like a family compound, just like the ones back home. So true, since the Palace is actually an ensemble of houses and annexes all linked together. There were courtyards, gardens, reception rooms, stables, a bath or hammam and even a mosque.
5.El Badi Palace. In contrast to the Bahia Palace, El Badi Palace is now in ruins. Too bad, since "El Badi" means "incomparable." I guess they should change it to "No Badi." Just kidding! It used to have 360 rooms (why not make it 365, one for each day of the year?) outfitted in marble, onyx and gold! But the riches are gone and now, it is used as the venue for the National Festival of Popular Arts.
6.Djemaa el Fna. From indoors, we ventured outdoors into the great square of Djemaa-el-Fna, the center of medina life day and night. The medina is what they call the old city. During the day, this square serves as the bus station and market. In the early evening, it’s full of food and performers such as snake charmers, storytellers, medicine men and musicians trying to outdo each other to attract the tourists. Quite ironic that everything here is full of action when, years before, this was where they displayed the heads of executed criminals and rebels. The name Djemaa El Fna translates as "The Assembly of the Dead." Ugh. Far from being dead, it’s full of life with never-ending action. It’s like being in a carnival!
7.Koutoubia Mosque. This is the best-known landmark in the whole of Marrakech. Built in the 12th century, it is still the main place of worship in the area today. The mosque used to be surrounded by the book market or the kutubiyyin where it got its name. The 70-meter-high minaret is Marrakech’s tallest building and is visible for miles from any direction. After all, it calls the Muslim faithful come prayer time. Too bad we could not enter the mosque or the minaret since we are non-Muslims. In the gardens and orange groves, where we were allowed, we found the traces of an older mosque that had been demolished because it was not correctly aligned with Mecca. How OC.
8.Saadian Tombs. As a rule, I really don’t like visiting tombs. I prefer life and being alive, thank you. But I was persuaded to go because these mosques are really beautifully decorated. Beauty being my weakness, I came along. The two mausoleums in the Saadian Tombs were decorated with over 100 mosaic-decorated graves. The living art of the dead nga naman! Or should that be art of the living dead? Whatever!
9.Souks. I consider the souks to be the soul of Marrakech and the lifeblood of the city. After all, where else can you find everything and anything you need at the right price? From carpets to candles, herbs and spices, to jewelry, furniture, food, clothes and even camels  everything is here! It’s just like Rustan’s, except with camels! Whatever! Having been to a souk in Egypt on one of my Famous travels, this was familiar territory. Of course, this was where my PR and tawad skills were tested to the max! Divided into different areas with specialties such as food, clothing, crafts and medicines, my favorite part of the souk, however, were the stalls that featured babouches or slippers. Covering over a square kilometer of sprawling alleyways, the souk is actually divided into distinct markets, each with their own specialties.
10.City Walls. We just had to see what the medina looked like from the outside so we hired a calèche (pronounced kalesh), which is very similar to our own kalesa, to take us around. The city walls of the medina are huge (took us an hour to go around) and had about 200 towers and 20 gates. And yes, even in those days, there was a "no ID, no entry" policy! First constructed in the 12th century, these form a neat circuit of six miles punctuated by about 200 towers and 20 gates. Made of pisé or rammed earth, the fortress takes on a pinkish tinge and glow in the setting sun, the reason Marrakech is known as the "Red City." I couldn’t wait to see it glow!
Marrakech was unlike any other city I have visited. There are no huge skyscrapers or impressive sculptures. This place is really rich in history and tradition. And the old ways are still kept alive. More noticeable was how their places of worship are not just mere museums but are really used for that purpose. As soon as the call from the minaret had sounded, the square was empty and bare.
Places like Marrakech  with its people, colorful customs and way of life  are the spice of life in my travels!
Imagine what a thrill it was for me to learn that we were off to another city in Morocco that was just as exotic as Casablanca: Marrakech! An even bigger thrill was finding out that no visa was needed. Hurray! Located in North Africa, Marrakech is hot, humid and bustling with life. Nothing shy about the people or the culture here and everything is just full of color. Could I have been Moroccan in a previous life? My good friend Ben Chan could have been a souk trader, with his flair for business (just look at his Bench empire!).
Since this was my first time to visit, I had to make sure I at least knew something about my destination. And I also practiced saying a few basic French phrases to get by since French is understood by most people in Marrakech and Morocco. So I kept saying "Bonjour" and "Merci" and trying to get the right French accent over and over until Ben decided to change seats in the airplane. Sorry, Ben!
Marrakech or Marakesh is known as Al-Hamra or the Red City. Why it’s red was something I was bound to discover later. The best time to visit this city is from late March to mid-June when it’s springtime. However, our arrival here was in late September, which I think is so much better since the weather was more pleasant and the evenings were a lot cooler. It was a good thing that I was here right before the beginning of Ramadan or else there would have been nothing to see. Sayang ang miles!
The city seemed more alive, probably because, with Ramadan around the corner, their everyday enjoyment would soon be forbidden. Also, the great spots for sightseeing were open and that was something that we all looked forward to.
1.The Ben Youssef Medrasa. The Medrasa is a 16th-century Koranic learning school that is right next to a mosque with the same name. Islam is the predominant religion here in Morocco and, of course, we had to observe customs. We were lucky to be able to enter the school and admire the central courtyard that was open to the sky. Particularly interesting were the zellij mosaic tiles and carvings of Koranic inscriptions in the Moorish style.
2.Koubba Ba’Adiyn. Marrakech has several historical monuments that have survived the wars and changes throughout the centuries. One of these is the Koubba Ba’Adiyn, which is located in the outer courtyard of the Ben Youssef Mosque. This small, two-story pavilion has a shallow pool used for ritual purification and is made up of a series of arches supporting a dome. Inside the dome are intricate carvings. Having an ear for chismis, enterprising me overheard a few tourists saying that this was one of the early monuments to incorporate the Moorish style, which then spread to North Africa and Spain. You can learn something from gossip, too!
3.Majorelle Gardens and Museum of Islamic Art. What a discovery! This particular tourist spot is privately owned by the famous fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent. The botanical garden was created in the 1920s by French artist Louis Majorelle and his son Jacques. I loved the perfectly manicured gardens! The reflecting pools inside the garden perfectly set off the cacti, bamboo, coconut and banana trees. All those green shades were really refreshing to the eye. Inside, all the noise of Marrakech was reduced to a murmur. It was very Zen, indeed.
4.Bahia Palace. The word bahia means "brilliance" and this was exactly the goal of grand vizier Ba Ahmed who was regent of Morocco from 1894 to 1900. The palace seemed more like a family compound, just like the ones back home. So true, since the Palace is actually an ensemble of houses and annexes all linked together. There were courtyards, gardens, reception rooms, stables, a bath or hammam and even a mosque.
5.El Badi Palace. In contrast to the Bahia Palace, El Badi Palace is now in ruins. Too bad, since "El Badi" means "incomparable." I guess they should change it to "No Badi." Just kidding! It used to have 360 rooms (why not make it 365, one for each day of the year?) outfitted in marble, onyx and gold! But the riches are gone and now, it is used as the venue for the National Festival of Popular Arts.
6.Djemaa el Fna. From indoors, we ventured outdoors into the great square of Djemaa-el-Fna, the center of medina life day and night. The medina is what they call the old city. During the day, this square serves as the bus station and market. In the early evening, it’s full of food and performers such as snake charmers, storytellers, medicine men and musicians trying to outdo each other to attract the tourists. Quite ironic that everything here is full of action when, years before, this was where they displayed the heads of executed criminals and rebels. The name Djemaa El Fna translates as "The Assembly of the Dead." Ugh. Far from being dead, it’s full of life with never-ending action. It’s like being in a carnival!
7.Koutoubia Mosque. This is the best-known landmark in the whole of Marrakech. Built in the 12th century, it is still the main place of worship in the area today. The mosque used to be surrounded by the book market or the kutubiyyin where it got its name. The 70-meter-high minaret is Marrakech’s tallest building and is visible for miles from any direction. After all, it calls the Muslim faithful come prayer time. Too bad we could not enter the mosque or the minaret since we are non-Muslims. In the gardens and orange groves, where we were allowed, we found the traces of an older mosque that had been demolished because it was not correctly aligned with Mecca. How OC.
8.Saadian Tombs. As a rule, I really don’t like visiting tombs. I prefer life and being alive, thank you. But I was persuaded to go because these mosques are really beautifully decorated. Beauty being my weakness, I came along. The two mausoleums in the Saadian Tombs were decorated with over 100 mosaic-decorated graves. The living art of the dead nga naman! Or should that be art of the living dead? Whatever!
9.Souks. I consider the souks to be the soul of Marrakech and the lifeblood of the city. After all, where else can you find everything and anything you need at the right price? From carpets to candles, herbs and spices, to jewelry, furniture, food, clothes and even camels  everything is here! It’s just like Rustan’s, except with camels! Whatever! Having been to a souk in Egypt on one of my Famous travels, this was familiar territory. Of course, this was where my PR and tawad skills were tested to the max! Divided into different areas with specialties such as food, clothing, crafts and medicines, my favorite part of the souk, however, were the stalls that featured babouches or slippers. Covering over a square kilometer of sprawling alleyways, the souk is actually divided into distinct markets, each with their own specialties.
10.City Walls. We just had to see what the medina looked like from the outside so we hired a calèche (pronounced kalesh), which is very similar to our own kalesa, to take us around. The city walls of the medina are huge (took us an hour to go around) and had about 200 towers and 20 gates. And yes, even in those days, there was a "no ID, no entry" policy! First constructed in the 12th century, these form a neat circuit of six miles punctuated by about 200 towers and 20 gates. Made of pisé or rammed earth, the fortress takes on a pinkish tinge and glow in the setting sun, the reason Marrakech is known as the "Red City." I couldn’t wait to see it glow!
Marrakech was unlike any other city I have visited. There are no huge skyscrapers or impressive sculptures. This place is really rich in history and tradition. And the old ways are still kept alive. More noticeable was how their places of worship are not just mere museums but are really used for that purpose. As soon as the call from the minaret had sounded, the square was empty and bare.
Places like Marrakech  with its people, colorful customs and way of life  are the spice of life in my travels!
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