Hello, Delhi
March 25, 2007 | 12:00am
Coming to India was like touching the tip of an iceberg. We got to know about this sleeping giant that is fast emerging as a country to watch.
For most of us first-timers, the visit brought us into a new culture and thought, and we learned about a people’s rich historical past. Our thirst for knowledge about India has not been satisfied; we want to know more and see more of this big country of one billion people. What our visit did was to correct misimpressions and misconceptions about Indians. For, in our childhood, when adults wanted to scare us, they warned us that the Bombays were coming if we did not behave. And because they looked different from us, wearing their turbans, we were deathly afraid.
So for nine days, we traveled to India’s capital towns of New Delhi and Agra, and Jaipur and Udaipur, foremost Rajasthan cities.
Delhi was built by the British in the 1920s and turned over to the Indians when the country gained its independence in 1947. In New Delhi, we saw remnants of its rich and varied past. It is a city of wide tree-lined boulevards, impressive government structures and gardens. The town has dignified buildings and palatial structures, Mughal-style gardens, fountains and pools. Delhi is a mingling of Old and New India, the modern and the ancient, having been the seat of the rise and fall of many empires, leaving a plethora of monuments and architectural styles.
We started out by paying homage to the father of the nation, Mahatma Gandhi, at his memorial, which is commemorated with an eternal flame. The Qutab Minar is an Indo-Islamic architectural wonder of ancient India. This sandstone tower testifies to the defeat of the last Hindu Kingdom. Also interesting is the recently built Akshardham Temple built without steel, only with pink stone and white marble. It has 234 ornately carved pillars, nine domes, 20 quadrangle shikhars, a plinth of stone elephants and 20,000 statues of India’s divine personalities.
Driving around Delhi, we saw the men hanging out, which is their favorite pastime according to our guide. Women in their colorful saris work harder, carrying heavy gravel and sand while the men sit and watch. The contrast was sharply evident between the rich and the poor here: despite quite a number of billionaires in this country, the minimum wage is 150 rupees a day  about P170. Tour bus drivers, for example, have no salaries; they rely mainly on tips.
Yet, we noticed almost everything sold was "made in India" and we never saw a supermarket, grocery or a foreign shop. There are some McDonald’s outlets, but no hamburgers or meat dishes  just chicken or vegetarian burgers. Medicines and books are good buys at 50 percent less than what they would cost here in the Philippines.
Shopping was wonderful with so many beautiful things at affordable prices. Next time, we agreed, we would need extra days just to visit the shops and have clothes made.
In Delhi, the Khan and Jan Path markets are ideal for walking around and appreciating local produce. Best buys are cottons and pashminas, arts and crafts. We noticed that most of the shopkeepers are men.
After Delhi, we proceeded to Agra to see what most of us came to India for  a glimpse of the Taj Mahal. This majestic monument stands in all its magnificence, manifesting the love of Mughal Emperor Shahjahan for his Empress Mumtaz Mahal. The Taj was built with white macarana marble inlaid with precious stones like jade, crystal, turquoise, lapis lazuli, sapphire, coral and diamonds imported from distant lands. It took 22 years to complete with a workforce of 20,000 craftsmen and builders who came from all over Asia. The Taj is a fusion of Indian and Persian architecture, with the exterior Persian, while the soul within is Indian. Throughout the day, the Taj changes colors and hues  at dawn, at midday and under the moon. It was foggy when we visited, bringing to mind the era of Avalon.
From Agra, we took a six-hour coach ride to Jaipur, the capital of Rajasthan. Along the way we passed wheat, mustard and sugar cane fields and sandstone brick-making ovens. We noticed that Indians drive just like Pinoys, perhaps even worse  no discipline, they don’t follow rules and they love to blow their horns. Our guide kidded us that while in other countries cars run either on the left or right side, in India they run on both lanes, regardless of which direction they are headed. We also saw school buses that looked like tricycles with covers, packed with kids.
Jaipur is known as the "Pink City" because its palaces and buildings are colored a dark, deep pink. The city is encircled by hills with the desert and blue sky serving as a background and its fortified walls following the contour of the land.
We were thrilled to ride atop an elephant on our climb to Amber Fort, in the style of the Maharajas and Maharanis. The interiors of the fort have royal halls decorated with intricate ivory, mirror, glasswork and wall paintings. As we walked through the rooms, we could visualize the grandeur of the kingdoms past.
The City Palace Museum in the heart of the city displayed traditional Rajasthani and Mughal Art and a collection of robes of royal princes, carpets and an armory of old weapons, and paintings portraying court scenes, battle scenes and possessions.
One area was set aside to house the Friends of the Museum, where artists and craftsmen work, exhibit and sell their work. Outside the palace were colorful bazaars with gems, Rajasthani handlooms, trinkets, camel leather, cafés and even a snake charmer! When we went, it was wedding season and we saw a groom on his camel with his entourage walking beside him on the way to his bride’s home. We also saw a newlyweds being smeared with henna paint on their feet before they entered the reception venue.
Everyone enjoyed Indian food, and never tired of trying new dishes at the different restaurants. We were surprised at ourselves: we were able to eat and enjoy Indian food every day that we were there.
Indian cuisine is distinguished by its use of spices and herbs such as chili pepper, black mustard, cumin, turmeric, ginger, mint, bay leaves, clove, coriander and curry leaves. Cardamom, nutmeg, cinnamon, saffron and rose petal essence are used in sweet dishes. While Indian food is influenced by the practice of vegetarianism in Indian society, through time, traders such as the Arabs and Chinese and other invaders brought tomato, squash, chili and potato and non-vegetarian fare such as pilafs and kebabs, introduced by Islamic rule.
Our group had an excellent meal and a unique cultural and food experience in Surabhi, a heritage restaurant in a 300-year-old haveli in Jaipur. There we had thali, an Indian meal comprised of a selection of different dishes served in small bowls on a round tray, made of steel with multiple compartments. It is a complete meal similar to the Japanese bento box, which includes a portion of different curries and other hot dishes. The thali consists of delicacies like pooris and chappattis made within eyesight, different vegetarian curries, rice, dal, curd, chutney, pickles, paneer and dairy products both sour and sweet. There is the chicken, lamb and fish roasted in a tandoor, a cylindrical coal-fired oven. Next door to the restaurant was the Turban Museum where they gamely showed us how to put on the headwear.
Dinner at the Rambagh Palace offered us a peek into royal living, a taste of luxury and extravagance. Its elegant dining rooms, marbled corridors and majestic gardens have been witness to the legendary tales of love and valor among polo-playing princes and princesses. For nearly two centuries, the Rambagh Palace was home to generations of royals. It was built in 1835 as a royal guesthouse and hunting lodge. In 1925 it was converted into a palace and became the residence of the Maharaja of Jaipur and Maharani Gayatri Devi.
In the Maharani’s memoir, A Princess Remembers, she wrote about her experience in a princely state from the height of its power to its being de-recognized. The book gave me deeper insights into India’s history and is a must-read for interested travelers to India.
We flew from Jaipur to Udaipur, known as the Venice of the East because it is situated near Lake Pichhola. This picturesque lake is surrounded by hills, palaces and temples, bathing ghats and embankments. Two island palaces  the Jag Mandir and Jag Niwas, also known as Lake Palace  are on the lake. At the Lake Palace we had a royal dinner of roast lamb with all its trimmings and preliminary courses, lasting until midnight.
The next day, we had a half-day excursion to Nagda, the old capital of Mewar and Ekingi. The ancient site of Nagda dates back to the 6th century and is renowned for the Sas-Bahu temples with interesting architecture and carvings. On the other hand, Ekingji is a beautifully sculpted temple complex with 108 temples within its high walls. The temples are dedicated to Lord Shiva, the presiding deity of the Mewar rulers. The walled complex has an elaborately pillared hall under a pyramidal roof and a four-faced image of Lord Shiva in dark marble.
The City Palace in Udaipur towers over Pichola Lake and is now preserved as a museum displaying a large and diverse array of artifacts. There is a restaurant where one can enjoy a meal looking out onto a lake. When we visited, they had a light and sound show and a Shakespeare poetry reading event. From the window of the palace, we caught a glimpse of the Maharaja of Udaipur, sitting with his son in an outdoor restaurant below. Just outside the gate of the City Palace are shops, including one where we found a variety of gemstones. Many of us stayed there until late at night, with the shopkeeper we called "Sweetheart" who came at dawn before we left the next day to deliver orders.
One thing we learned is that the three most important animals in India are the elephant, the horse and the camel. Elephants stand for good luck and are considered most beloved and important creatures, intelligent and sensitive animals. Elephants are said to live for 60 years, and can cost as much as $15,000. The horse symbolizes power, as polo was the sport of the royals. On the other hand, camels are symbols of love. They are beasts of burden that can fetch as much as 200,000 rupees, depending on how well trained they are. Some of them are taught to cross the desert by themselves to deliver goods and return to where they originated; they have also been used by drug dealers
For nine of us, it was our first time to India. The trip was beyond our expectations. The visit has made us very much interested in learning more about India and its history and mythology. To return is a must.
For most of us first-timers, the visit brought us into a new culture and thought, and we learned about a people’s rich historical past. Our thirst for knowledge about India has not been satisfied; we want to know more and see more of this big country of one billion people. What our visit did was to correct misimpressions and misconceptions about Indians. For, in our childhood, when adults wanted to scare us, they warned us that the Bombays were coming if we did not behave. And because they looked different from us, wearing their turbans, we were deathly afraid.
So for nine days, we traveled to India’s capital towns of New Delhi and Agra, and Jaipur and Udaipur, foremost Rajasthan cities.
Delhi was built by the British in the 1920s and turned over to the Indians when the country gained its independence in 1947. In New Delhi, we saw remnants of its rich and varied past. It is a city of wide tree-lined boulevards, impressive government structures and gardens. The town has dignified buildings and palatial structures, Mughal-style gardens, fountains and pools. Delhi is a mingling of Old and New India, the modern and the ancient, having been the seat of the rise and fall of many empires, leaving a plethora of monuments and architectural styles.
We started out by paying homage to the father of the nation, Mahatma Gandhi, at his memorial, which is commemorated with an eternal flame. The Qutab Minar is an Indo-Islamic architectural wonder of ancient India. This sandstone tower testifies to the defeat of the last Hindu Kingdom. Also interesting is the recently built Akshardham Temple built without steel, only with pink stone and white marble. It has 234 ornately carved pillars, nine domes, 20 quadrangle shikhars, a plinth of stone elephants and 20,000 statues of India’s divine personalities.
Driving around Delhi, we saw the men hanging out, which is their favorite pastime according to our guide. Women in their colorful saris work harder, carrying heavy gravel and sand while the men sit and watch. The contrast was sharply evident between the rich and the poor here: despite quite a number of billionaires in this country, the minimum wage is 150 rupees a day  about P170. Tour bus drivers, for example, have no salaries; they rely mainly on tips.
Yet, we noticed almost everything sold was "made in India" and we never saw a supermarket, grocery or a foreign shop. There are some McDonald’s outlets, but no hamburgers or meat dishes  just chicken or vegetarian burgers. Medicines and books are good buys at 50 percent less than what they would cost here in the Philippines.
Shopping was wonderful with so many beautiful things at affordable prices. Next time, we agreed, we would need extra days just to visit the shops and have clothes made.
In Delhi, the Khan and Jan Path markets are ideal for walking around and appreciating local produce. Best buys are cottons and pashminas, arts and crafts. We noticed that most of the shopkeepers are men.
After Delhi, we proceeded to Agra to see what most of us came to India for  a glimpse of the Taj Mahal. This majestic monument stands in all its magnificence, manifesting the love of Mughal Emperor Shahjahan for his Empress Mumtaz Mahal. The Taj was built with white macarana marble inlaid with precious stones like jade, crystal, turquoise, lapis lazuli, sapphire, coral and diamonds imported from distant lands. It took 22 years to complete with a workforce of 20,000 craftsmen and builders who came from all over Asia. The Taj is a fusion of Indian and Persian architecture, with the exterior Persian, while the soul within is Indian. Throughout the day, the Taj changes colors and hues  at dawn, at midday and under the moon. It was foggy when we visited, bringing to mind the era of Avalon.
From Agra, we took a six-hour coach ride to Jaipur, the capital of Rajasthan. Along the way we passed wheat, mustard and sugar cane fields and sandstone brick-making ovens. We noticed that Indians drive just like Pinoys, perhaps even worse  no discipline, they don’t follow rules and they love to blow their horns. Our guide kidded us that while in other countries cars run either on the left or right side, in India they run on both lanes, regardless of which direction they are headed. We also saw school buses that looked like tricycles with covers, packed with kids.
Jaipur is known as the "Pink City" because its palaces and buildings are colored a dark, deep pink. The city is encircled by hills with the desert and blue sky serving as a background and its fortified walls following the contour of the land.
We were thrilled to ride atop an elephant on our climb to Amber Fort, in the style of the Maharajas and Maharanis. The interiors of the fort have royal halls decorated with intricate ivory, mirror, glasswork and wall paintings. As we walked through the rooms, we could visualize the grandeur of the kingdoms past.
The City Palace Museum in the heart of the city displayed traditional Rajasthani and Mughal Art and a collection of robes of royal princes, carpets and an armory of old weapons, and paintings portraying court scenes, battle scenes and possessions.
One area was set aside to house the Friends of the Museum, where artists and craftsmen work, exhibit and sell their work. Outside the palace were colorful bazaars with gems, Rajasthani handlooms, trinkets, camel leather, cafés and even a snake charmer! When we went, it was wedding season and we saw a groom on his camel with his entourage walking beside him on the way to his bride’s home. We also saw a newlyweds being smeared with henna paint on their feet before they entered the reception venue.
Everyone enjoyed Indian food, and never tired of trying new dishes at the different restaurants. We were surprised at ourselves: we were able to eat and enjoy Indian food every day that we were there.
Indian cuisine is distinguished by its use of spices and herbs such as chili pepper, black mustard, cumin, turmeric, ginger, mint, bay leaves, clove, coriander and curry leaves. Cardamom, nutmeg, cinnamon, saffron and rose petal essence are used in sweet dishes. While Indian food is influenced by the practice of vegetarianism in Indian society, through time, traders such as the Arabs and Chinese and other invaders brought tomato, squash, chili and potato and non-vegetarian fare such as pilafs and kebabs, introduced by Islamic rule.
Our group had an excellent meal and a unique cultural and food experience in Surabhi, a heritage restaurant in a 300-year-old haveli in Jaipur. There we had thali, an Indian meal comprised of a selection of different dishes served in small bowls on a round tray, made of steel with multiple compartments. It is a complete meal similar to the Japanese bento box, which includes a portion of different curries and other hot dishes. The thali consists of delicacies like pooris and chappattis made within eyesight, different vegetarian curries, rice, dal, curd, chutney, pickles, paneer and dairy products both sour and sweet. There is the chicken, lamb and fish roasted in a tandoor, a cylindrical coal-fired oven. Next door to the restaurant was the Turban Museum where they gamely showed us how to put on the headwear.
Dinner at the Rambagh Palace offered us a peek into royal living, a taste of luxury and extravagance. Its elegant dining rooms, marbled corridors and majestic gardens have been witness to the legendary tales of love and valor among polo-playing princes and princesses. For nearly two centuries, the Rambagh Palace was home to generations of royals. It was built in 1835 as a royal guesthouse and hunting lodge. In 1925 it was converted into a palace and became the residence of the Maharaja of Jaipur and Maharani Gayatri Devi.
In the Maharani’s memoir, A Princess Remembers, she wrote about her experience in a princely state from the height of its power to its being de-recognized. The book gave me deeper insights into India’s history and is a must-read for interested travelers to India.
We flew from Jaipur to Udaipur, known as the Venice of the East because it is situated near Lake Pichhola. This picturesque lake is surrounded by hills, palaces and temples, bathing ghats and embankments. Two island palaces  the Jag Mandir and Jag Niwas, also known as Lake Palace  are on the lake. At the Lake Palace we had a royal dinner of roast lamb with all its trimmings and preliminary courses, lasting until midnight.
The next day, we had a half-day excursion to Nagda, the old capital of Mewar and Ekingi. The ancient site of Nagda dates back to the 6th century and is renowned for the Sas-Bahu temples with interesting architecture and carvings. On the other hand, Ekingji is a beautifully sculpted temple complex with 108 temples within its high walls. The temples are dedicated to Lord Shiva, the presiding deity of the Mewar rulers. The walled complex has an elaborately pillared hall under a pyramidal roof and a four-faced image of Lord Shiva in dark marble.
The City Palace in Udaipur towers over Pichola Lake and is now preserved as a museum displaying a large and diverse array of artifacts. There is a restaurant where one can enjoy a meal looking out onto a lake. When we visited, they had a light and sound show and a Shakespeare poetry reading event. From the window of the palace, we caught a glimpse of the Maharaja of Udaipur, sitting with his son in an outdoor restaurant below. Just outside the gate of the City Palace are shops, including one where we found a variety of gemstones. Many of us stayed there until late at night, with the shopkeeper we called "Sweetheart" who came at dawn before we left the next day to deliver orders.
One thing we learned is that the three most important animals in India are the elephant, the horse and the camel. Elephants stand for good luck and are considered most beloved and important creatures, intelligent and sensitive animals. Elephants are said to live for 60 years, and can cost as much as $15,000. The horse symbolizes power, as polo was the sport of the royals. On the other hand, camels are symbols of love. They are beasts of burden that can fetch as much as 200,000 rupees, depending on how well trained they are. Some of them are taught to cross the desert by themselves to deliver goods and return to where they originated; they have also been used by drug dealers
For nine of us, it was our first time to India. The trip was beyond our expectations. The visit has made us very much interested in learning more about India and its history and mythology. To return is a must.
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