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Antulang: Paradise found | Philstar.com
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Travel and Tourism

Antulang: Paradise found

RENDEZVOUS  - Christine S. Dayrit -
Was it divine intervention or man’s proclivity for perfection? I am not sure. Either way, the fact that seashore and resort share the same breath is sheer temptation. Enough to entice any saint to a communion of cliff-edge villas, lush greenery and the clear blue waters of the sea, the wanderlust in me could not resist when Dumaguete once again beckoned.

A holiday in the south must include Dumaguete, which is conveniently an hour’s flight via Air Philippines from Manila. My senses demand it: my eyes want to feast in the old colonial charm, my nose longs to breath the scent of jungle flowers, my mouth has requested a bevy of fruits, seafood and other culinary delights, while fine pearly sand from a hidden beach will slip through my fingers and my ears will perk up at the sound of surf lapping against an outrigger canoe.

Driving away from the city, I noted that Dumaguete’s suburbia brims with natural wonders waiting to be discovered. With ambient music playing in the background, it created a perfect and naturally grounding effect – the picturesque vistas had entranced me.

As we approached our destination, the coach stops at a ridge and our guide, Shabs, encourages us to take a good look at the scenic Tambobo Bay. Below us, the view is pure tropical idyll: coconut trees mixed with lush vegetation endemic to the place, the bay dotted with yachts from all over the world, and the sea water beyond with too many blues to count! Instead of dwelling on the picture-postcard scenery, I am suddenly hit by the fact that our destination would struggle to fill up a postcard.

Nestled 40 kilometers south of Dumaguete City, Antulang Beach Resort is a paradise found. During my previous visit to Dumaguete during their Buglasan Festival, affable Governor George Arnaiz enthused a visit to Antulang is a must.

Perched on 10 sprawling hectares of limestone cliffs peppered with an eclectic fusion of bougainvilleas and antulang (gumamela or hibiscus) from which the resort takes its name, Antulang is one of the premium resorts in the Philippines where private pool villas, premium rooms, swimming pools and other facilities are positioned right at the cliff’s edge. This ensures guests a commanding view of an endless sea while winding staircases lead directly to a kilometer stretch of private white sand beach.

Antulang’s resident manager Bernice Gantalao meets us as we step off the coach and the resort’s gracious proprietors Annabelle Lee and Edo Adriano greet us at the Farola Restaurant (named after the lighthouse strategically located beside the restaurant) where an advance team of friends from the media are ecstatically savoring an al fresco Pinoy breakfast fare. As if to welcome us, a shoal of spinner dolphins suddenly makes a surprise appearance and performs playful antics in the blue waters of Mindanao Sea. We did not have to seek them; they found us.

I have always had a penchant for history and ancient lore. After an interesting, mid-afternoon photo shoot, the group drove out of the resort to explore Dumaguete, the City of Gentle People. Despite creeping modernization and abstract architecture, this haven has retained its tranquil colonial charm.

Today, Rizal Boulevard is a promenade that stretches 800 meters along the seawall from the wharf to Colon Street and home to cozy restaurants like Don Atilano Steak House, Mamia’s (owned by the family of Dumaguete City Mayor Agustin Perdices), deli shops, Internet cafés and Sans Rival, the bakeshop that makes that delightful buttery pastry.

A stroll on the boardwalk will not be complete without sampling an interesting delicacy called "tempura," which my foodie interior designer pal and travel companion Mike Mina pointed out as a you-haven’t-been-to-Dumaguete kind of thing if you didn’t try it. Despite its floury taste, the dip, a concoction of sweet vinegar and other spices, proved that street food can be as delectable as fine cuisine.

The Protestant-run Silliman University, also known as the Campus by the Sea, sprawls over 56 hectares with its central quadrangle bordered by centuries-old towering acacia trees planted by the American missionaries. The institution was a gift from Dr. Horace Brinsmade Silliman, a philanthropist from Cohoes, New York, who founded the university barely five months after the end of the Fil-American War.

Despite the façade and charm of its old American-style architecture, Silliman’s campus remains technology-savvy. When my pal Mike Mina excused himself to look for an Internet café to attend to an urgent message in his mobile phone, our host, an alumnus of the university, proudly informed us that the entire campus was WiFi-ready. In an instant, Mike and his laptop were connected to the web. He was in elements once again.

For dinner, we were treated to one of Dumaguete’s pride, inato at Jo’s House of Chicken Inato, followed by a dessert of frozen cappuccino at Mamia’s. Before heading back to the resort, the group further explored other foodie places along Rizal Boulevard.

Back at the resort, a soothing and relaxing massage by the pool caps the day amid a natural background symphony of the sounds of geckoes and waves lapping against the limestone gorge 20 meters below. At Antulang, activities, such as diving, snorkeling, kayaking, horseback riding, ATV trailing and rappelling, are offered along with scheduled cruises to famed Apo Island and nearby Tambobo Bay. On our second day, we sailed to Apo Island on board the fully-furnished and fitted M/B Annabelle Lee. Antulang is proud to be the only resort in Dumaguete to have its own trimaran. Jonathan Alerre, the resort’s in-house PADI-certified dive instructor, was on board to share his expertise.

Apo Island is a 72-hectare lump of volcanic rock and probably the Philippines’ best case of how local communities can best manage their coastal resources. In 1985, with the assistance of Silliman University’s Marine Center, the island turned into a marine reserve and is now one of the top dive spots in Asia. In Apo, there’s as much to see beneath the waves as above them. We snorkeled and plunged deeper into the inviting waters with a veritable rainbow of exotic fish, and gardens of reefs where each stand of coral blooms like precious orchids.

After the sun, sea and surf, we were back at the resort to engage in yet another fun-filled activity – rappelling. While each of us waited for our turn to descend 20 meters down a limestone cliff, we feasted on tropical fruits like santol, duhat, and Dumaguete’s very own deep-fried Panda Ice Cream. Here, we also discover Mike Mina’s yet unseen element – far from his glamorous all-black corporate look at Brunei’s Empire Hotel, as he rappels effortlessly down the ravine, while our tour leader and photographer Yvette Lee captures the moment.

At dinner that night, spirits were high as we enjoyed an al fresco treat at Waldo’s Bar. Among the array of delectable seafood and other Filipino dishes, halang-halang Chicken was the instant hit. This famed spicy Dumaguete dish is a cross between our very own tinola and Thailand’s tom kar gai.

On our last day, we visited the Forest Camp in the nearby town of Valencia, where we took control of six all-terrain vehicles (ATVs) for an exhilarating adventure. We wandered through rough terrains passing by quaint villages set against a backdrop of verdant forests, green grass-swathed rolling hills and volcanic rocks to reach the Japanese Shrine located at the foot of the dormant Mount Talinis. On the way back, the Casaroro Falls was a refreshing sight to behold. We indulged on a hearty lunch of yet another version of the halang-halang, grilled native chicken, pako (fiddlehead fern) salad, sotanghon guisado, and tropical fruits, lovingly prepared by Florante and Melba Vicuna.

Prior to our flight back to Manila, we were once again treated to a sumptuous merienda of the local bread fruit smothered with latik or caramelized coconut cream. At Sans Rival Bakeshop, we collected our horde of pre-ordered sans rival, silvanas, and cassava cake.

A wish fulfilled. Waking up to a new day, I experience: a tranquil blue sea, so azure it dazzles the senses; glorious morning light dances over colorful boats in motion; mist lingers along the bougainvillea-lined ridge as soulful jazz music serenades the senses. Such romance with nature must be a miracle. If it isn’t, I don’t know what is.
* * *
For more information and reservations, call Antulang Beach Resort at +63-35-427-0338 and 427-0339; e-mail: info@antulang.com; or visit its website at www.antulang.com. Air Philippines flies direct from Manila to Dumaguete. Call Edna Patricio at +632-8559000 for details or visit its website at www.airphils.com.
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E-mail the author at miladay_star@yahoo.com

AIR PHILIPPINES

ANTULANG

ANTULANG BEACH RESORT

APO ISLAND

DUMAGUETE

MIKE MINA

RESORT

RIZAL BOULEVARD

SILLIMAN UNIVERSITY

TAMBOBO BAY

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