Make way for the King’s royal fleet
May 28, 2006 | 12:00am
On June 12, 2549, the grandeur of Thailand’s Royal Barge Procession will once again dazzle millions of spectators all over the world. His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej’s whole fleet of 52 royal barges will ply the Chao Phraya River in a one-hour procession beginning at 7:30 p.m.
But before you start scratching your head in bewilderment, yes, you read the date right. This most-awaited event will happen on June 12, 2549, according to Thailand’s lunar calendar. That’s 2006 for you, Gregorian calendar users.
The King, the world’s longest reigning monarch, will be celebrating the 60th year of his accession to the throne on June 9. To commemorate this happy occasion, the Royal Thai Navy was tasked to organize the Royal Barge Procession which will begin at the Wasukri Landing Place and end at the Wat Arun, or Temple of Dawn.
"We are expecting anywhere from 900,000 to one million visitors on June 12 to witness the procession as well as the light and sound show," says Tourism Authority of Thailand Gov. Juthamas Siriwan during a press conference that launched the Royal Barge Procession rehearsals. The governor hopes that the royal event will help increase their goal of attracting 13.8 million foreign tourists for 2006.
Twenty-nine heads of states and royal guests are expected to grace the special occasion and will watch the procession from the new building of the Royal Thai Navy Institute. For 1,000 baht inclusive of meals and refreshments, visitors can watch the procession from various points, particularly the Bank of Thailand riverside lawn. Those who won’t be able to see the actual event can go to the rehearsals slated on June 2, 6 and 9. Their best view? The lawns of the Bank of Thailand and the Riverside III Cruise.
Expectedly, security will be very tight. According to the Tourism Governor, about a million uniformed and plainclothes police forces will be deployed to protect the peace. The last time the century-old barges were taken out of the Royal Barge Museum was three years ago during the APEC Summit held in Bangkok.
Just what is so special about these royal barges, you might be asking now. Well, it’s one of the things that define Thailand’s unique and colorful culture. In times past, boats played an important role in Siam’s history and traditions. For one, the river was the more common way for the King to go from one place to another. It was from these barges that lighted candles were sent forth during Jong Priang ceremonies, and were also the venues from where fireworks were launched on lunar new year festivities. In times of war, barges floating in formation ably protected the land from harm and plunder. According to historians, the best time for the soldiers to practice barge battle formation was during rainy seasons when rivers would swell.
If you’ve seen Anna and the King, the Hollywood movie starring Chow Yun Fat and Jodie Foster, you probably have noticed some scenes showing the King aboard the royal barge. See, barge processions in the old days weren’t only used for official functions, such as the Crowning Ceremony, Buddhist relics worship or welcoming foreign dignitaries, but also for when the King wanted to have a leisurely cruise.
If you’re going to watch this particular Royal Barge Procession this June, there are four barges to watch out for, not only for its antiquity but for its exquisite craftsmanship. Built during King Rama IX’s (King Mongkutklao) reign in the early 1900s, the Royal Barge Suphannahongse has the head of the Royal Swan – in gold lacquer and decorated with mirrors – for the prow. It has a crew of 50 rowers, two steersmen and two officers. With gilded paddles, the oarsmen row in a manner that suggests a flying motion.
The Royal Barge Anantanagaraj, meanwhile, also built during Rama VI’s time, replaced the barge constructed during Rama IV’s reign. Its attraction is the head of the seven-headed serpent, called Naga, in gold lacquer and studded with mirrors. It has 54 rowers and two steersmen.
Built during the reign of Rama V, otherwise known as King Chulalongkorn, was the Royal Barge Anekchatbhuchongse, which is said to be the oldest of the Royal Barges. With the outside hull looking very pretty in pink, the prow has exquisitely intricate serpent designs. With 61 rowers, two steersmen and two officers fore and aft, this is one of the most impressive of barges.
Considered a secondary royal barge equivalent to the royal barges Anatanagaraj and Anekchatbhuchongse, the Royal Barge Narai Song Suban H.M. Rama IX was built during the reign of the present King, Rama IX. The barge’s figurehead is said to be the exact replica of the Royal Barge Narai Song Suban built around King Rama III and IV’s time, in the 1700s and the 1800s. It was constructed to celebrate King Rama IX’s 50th anniversary of his accession to the throne. Its outside hull painted red, the barge has 50 rowers and two steersmen.
According to the Tourism Governor, the barges are made out of one whole teak tree and are almost 50 meters long. A total of 2,082 navy men are expected to man the 52 barges come procession time. The main barges are traditionally located in the middle and the smaller barges surround – and protect – the main boats, where the members of the Royal Family are seated.
Giving an interesting twist to the procession are the boat chants, which impressed guests during one of the evening rehearsals early this month. Imagine a drone of male voices emerging from the shadowy Chao Phraya accompanied by the beating of a drum. Like the soft rumble of thunder from afar, the sound grows into a chorus of baritone voices singing of hymns of praise to their beloved King for his great works, which result in the peace and prosperity of the whole kingdom. Another song proudly proclaims the fine features of each barge, while the other talks about the kingdom as a city of heaven. Unfortunately, while the boat song used for ceremonial and special occasions are still as popular as ever, the other song is getting heard less and less with the passing of time.
The song which will be used during the June 12 procession was composed by retired Capt. Thongyoi Saengsinchai and sung by Lt. Natswat Aremklue, who is presently the acting head of the Royal Ceremonial Barge Section of the Small Craft Division, Naval Transportation Department. So far, the Royal Thai Navy has organized 15 royal barge processions during King Bhumibol Adulyadej’s reign.
The Royal Barge Procession is probably one of the events worth seeing in one’s lifetime. While we only got a glimpse via the rehearsals one warm and moonless night, we stood all throughout the hour-long procession mesmerized by the majesty of it all.
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