Luscious Langkawi

Christopher Columbus once talked of "following the light of the sun." As travelers, this is our mission.
We create our own personal odyssey to explore terra incognito, uncharted grounds where we make a connection with other cultures and gain a deeper understanding of their sensitivities.

Mist-enshrouded towering peaks, lush jungles and gently billowing streams reminded me of a scene from

The Lost World. Nowhere else in Malaysia can one find a place steeped in myths and legends than in Langkawi. For the uninitiated, Langkawi seems to be shrouded in mystery, which you immediately feel upon disembarking in the main town of Kuah at the southeastern portion of the tropical island. There’s something ethereal about the place and it is aching to be unveiled. Truly beguiling are its treasures – attractive white beaches, enticing aquamarine waters, spellbinding sunsets, intriguing caves, lovely lakes. They take the visitor’s breath away.

After a comfortable cruise aboard the state-of-the art Superstar Virgo, we went to Langkawi. We were welcomed by the majestic statue of a reddish brown eagle at Datan Lang (Eagle Square). As if in flight, the eagle, the centerpiece structure of the square, conveys a feeling of excitement as visitors discover what the island has in store.

The habitués of Langkawi with their arresting smiles extended us their hospitality. They willingly told us how Langkawi got its name. Langkawi, according to the locals, literally means reddish-brown eagle. Helang, or eagles, one legend says, used to patrol the 99 islands of Langkawi. In olden Malay, kawi means reddish brown, the color of the eagles. Hence, the reddish brown eagle became the symbol of Langkawi. In Sanskrit, "langka" translates to mean beauty and "wi" denotes many, aptly describing its collective splendor. Since only three of its islands are populated, the other uninhabited glorious isles provide privacy and serenity amid nature’s finest bounties.

Even Kuah, where the square is located, got its name after a legend. Kuah is a Malay word meaning "gravy." Local residents say that long ago, there were two rivaling giants. In one of their duels, they overturned a gigantic pot of curry at the spot where the town now stands. Once a rural town, Kuah is now a flourishing center of modernity complete with hotels, shopping and business complexes. For shopaholics, Kuah is a duty-free shopping paradise with a wide variety of goods sold at reasonable prices. The restaurants here, which offer exemplary culinary delights, especially fresh seafood, are all tops.

Twelve kilometers from Kuah lies the repository of culture and history of Langkawi: Makam Mahsuri or Mahsuri’s Museum. This institution, which is also ripe in legendary tales, was erected in honor of a maiden who lived on the island 200 years ago. This lovely maiden was wrongly accused of adultery and was sentenced to death. On the day of her execution, she cursed the place, saying it would experience famine and drought for seven generations. Shortly after she gasped her last breath, white blood flowed out of her body to symbolize that she was not guilty of the accusations against her. The curse unfolded shortly after her death. Siamese soldiers invaded the island and the villagers were forced to burn their rice fields. To this day, some folk say traces of burnt rice can be seen in the sands at Padang Matsirat, especially after a heavy rain.

With its modern international airport, opulent resorts and facilities, it’s hard to imagine that 15 years ago, this was an undiscovered haven situated between the Straits of Malacca and the Andaman Sea. Suffice to say, it was perhaps just recently that the princess’ curse expired. Langkawi is a prospering tourist destination today.

The legend of Tasik Dayang Bunting has become famous among childless locals and foreigners. Also known as the Lake of the Pregnant Maiden, the lake, snuggled amid thickly forested hills, is the largest in Langkawi. For many an island hopper, the lake may seem ordinary, but an old story makes it interesting for visitors. From the other side of the lake peacefully rests a mountain whose curves and contours resemble a pregnant woman in supine position. For many, the lake is a testament to the union of a fairy princess and an earthly prince. The fairy’s firstborn died and caused her immense sadness. Not wanting to remember the death of her child, she chose to leave the lake. Before she returned to her celestial home, the fairy blessed the lake so that any childless maiden who bathed in it would conceive a child thereafter.

The many pristine beaches of Langkawi are also not without a romantic tale. Many legends surround the coming to life of these beaches, but all tales lead to one synopsis: They are made out of love. An experience not to be missed by lovers is a trip or two to the idyllic beaches of Pantai Kok, Pantai Cenang, Pantai Tengah, Datai, and Burau Bay. In these pristine beaches, be ready to be kissed and caressed by the sea and sand, sun and stars.

For the more adventurous, spelunking and diving also abound. The Gua Cherita or Cave of Legends is a popular destination among those who seek the company of bats and other creatures of the crevices. As its name suggests, the cave is steeped in tales of mystery and romance. On the walls of the cave can be seen ancient calligraphy that has yet to be deciphered.

The Pulau Payar Marine Park, in the northern part of Straits of Malacca and 19 nautical miles south of Langkawi, is a favorite destination among divers. The marine park, encompassing the islands of Pulau Payar, Pulau Lembu, Pulau Segantang, and Pulau Kaca, pulsates with marine life. The most famous dive site is called Coral Garden, an enchanting spot covered with bright, luminous, multi-colored corals. Check the site and don’t be surprised if your diving guide tells you that this underwater garden holds the secret of a romantic tryst between a sea goddess and a mortal.

The islands of Langkawi are truly blessed with an intriguing and interesting legacy of amazing myths and legends of giants and gigantic birds, of warriors and fairy princesses, of battles and romance, of suffering and deliverance, of anguish and love. The legends that strike the imaginations of tourists attract many to its tropical shores because the locals are sincerely convinced of their authenticity with their evidence scattered all over the island. These and more make up the attraction that is Langkawi – an intriguing juxtaposition of its many timeless fables of ancient eras and sophisticated architecture of its posh resorts.

Between the starry sky and the day’s crimson end, the perfume of jungle flowers pervades my senses as I rest in my villa with a stream running underneath at the Datai, one of the very first grand deluxe resorts situated between the majestic Mat Cincang and the azure Andaman Sea. Centuries-old trees with giant buttress roots and forest twines embrace the resort to create a sheltered haven, a secret world away from modern civilizations of appointments, timepieces and calendars.

The Spa at the Datai is surrounded by virginal foliage that has imbibed the soul of the ancient forest with its innovative interpretation of Asian ritualistic treatments. This rainforest setting is a treasure trove of natural wellness and beckons with the promise of inner healing and rejuvenation.

Rain begins to gently fall and the forest temperature drops even further. The cloak of darkness unfolds as dozens of fireflies illumine the night sky. I celebrate with them. Columbus knew it from the start. As long as we follow where the light leads us, we will ultimately find what we wish to discover. The beginning and end of a journey are simply points of arrival and departure. At the core of each sojourn lies the unfathomable passion to discover life and the many divine treasures it offers.

For bookings on Star Cruise’s Superstar Virgo, call Pan Pacific Travel at 523-1990 and 536-1265 to 67, and Pacer Travel at 521-8880 and 525-3688. Contact the Malaysia Tourism Board at 817-4581. Malaysian Air flies to Langkawi via Kuala Lumpur daily.

E-mail the author at miladay_star@yahoo.com.