A spa for all seasons
September 19, 2004 | 12:00am
Every now and then, we are blessed with moments of real grace. Francis Wanandi, a close friend and business associate of my only brother Mark, extended an invitation to the grand wedding of his only sister Felicia to Thomas Hartono in Ubud, the art capital of Bali in Indonesia. Initially, my group (including my sisters Michelle Soliven, Yvonne Romualdez, brother Mark, my best buddy Büm Tenorio) and I were going to stay at the palace of the Wanandis set in the tropical forests of the majestic highlands. Mark, however, suddenly had this brilliant idea to explore the fabulous spa resorts in the area. Among the first ones we checked out were the Amandari, the Legian and Maya Ubud. As we drove through the breathtaking scenery, Wayan, our precocious driver and guide made a turn up a tree-lined driveway and graciously requested us to walk through what he termed as the "lost paradise." Every step we took was an exercise in awe and wonder. We marveled at the ingenuity of how this out-of-this-world edifice was constructed in a terraced fashion that followed the natural contour of its terrain. Like a lost relic of an ancient civilization, this enigmatic structure seemed to emerge from the mountain mist. The presence of serenity and tranquility were palpable signs that gods and goddesses resided here. The scent of aromatic incense mingled with the sweet smell of frangipani and chempaka flowers. While all of us were savoring this olfactory feast, Mark pointed to the verdant rice terraces and cascading water gardens that shared the jungle with ancient shrines, brilliant heliconias and rugged banyan trees. Amid all this beauty is a private sanctuary that restores inner balance and serenity – welcome to Four Seasons Resort at Sayan, Indonesia.
Mark, being the leader of the group spontaneously decided to treat us for an overnight stay of royal pampering at Four Seasons Sayan. Fortunately for us, they had a villa available on such short notice. We were floored when before our very eyes we were privy to the paddy fields, herb and vegetable gardens, and trees that either blend or disappear into the landscape. Can you imagine sunken villas with lily ponds on the roofs, overflowing water to celebrate the Balinese heritage of nourishing the body and spirit with fresh water, natural and indigenous materials used as well as rustic landscaping combined with the dramatic terrain and the presence on site of two rivers and five sacred temple shrines?
The resort features 60 beautifully appointed suites and villas that extend from the top of the verdant hillside down to the river’s edge with the most impressive views of the sacred Ayung River valley. To enter this enchanting eden, we crossed the dramatic gorge via a solid teak bridge, which leads to an elliptical lotus pond measuring 9,170 square feet. This pond rests on the roof of the resort’s three-level central building. The staircase spiraled down to the reception area, the Jati bar and downwards to the Ayung Terrace restaurant and the Spa – all enjoying stunning, unobscured views. The 18 suites are located in the central building. The 42 villas are all free standing with spacious gardens. Each villa has its own private lounge pool and is spread throughout the resort grounds: some along the river bank, others on the rolling hillside surrounded by rice fields and eight on the crest of the hill. We checked in at the Royal Villa, an impressive three-bedroom residence ideally positioned adjacent to the Ayung River. The prime location afforded a stunning view of the surrounding landscape and river valley. With rice paddies like staircases to heaven as my view, I imagined why couldn’t we have a resort like this in our very own Banaue rice terraces? Entry to this two-level villa is past the rooftop lily-pond and private meditation areas to a first floor verandah with a day bed and chairs, flanked on either side by a king-sized bedroom and twin bedrooms, each with fantastic bathrooms. The stairway descended to an air-conditioned dining room for six guests next to a large comfortable living room and kitchen. There is a rare collection of Indonesian art treasures, each contributing to the lavish, understated elegance of the villa. The third bedroom and bathroom open on to a private screened patio near to the spectacular 470-foot pool and sunbathing terrace.
A stickler for Balinese culture and traditions, each spa pavilion at Four Seasons boasts a tasteful combination of local stone facings, teakwood cabinets and flooring, innovative hand-blown glass wash basins, glass windows discreetly shielded with Japanese rice paper blinds and layered alang-alang (like cogon grass) thatched roofs.
We explored the gorgeous paradise and sampled their exotic Indonesian cuisine like nasi goreng, assorted sates with spicy peanut sauce, gado gado and coconut gelatinous dessert at the Ayung Terrace. Before midnight, we took a refreshing dip in the privacy of our lounge pool as the full moon illuminated everything in its path. We awoke to a spectacular sunrise against a rice-terraced mountainside. After a healthy breakfast of muesli and fruit juices, Mark set out for the gym overlooking the valley while my youngest sister Yvonne and I headed for the Spa. Yvonne and I had our "Four Seasons in One" treatment. It is designed to link evocative fragrances with diverse massage techniques, that will remind you of winter, spring, summer and fall. According to Wolf Hengst, president of worldwide hotel operations: "To experience our signature treatment is to experience an unforgettable journey through the seasons."
The "Four Seasons in One" treatment is 80 minutes long and is given in 20-minute stages, each reflecting a season. Peppermint being the essence of winter, I sipped a cup of peppermint tea to open the session. A peppermint scrub is applied to the back, hands and feet for exfoliation, cleansing and enhanced circulation, then removed with a chilled towel. An application of peppermint shea butter and oil is then applied to the entire body – a cooling feature representing the last of winter before transitioning into spring. A combination of floral and citrus aromas reflects the regeneration of life when winter’s chill subsides into spring. Verviene shea butter and oil is applied to the hands and feet. A warm herbal sheet is wrapped around the body, and hands are enfolded in moist, heated towels. Finally, a rolled hot towel is laced behind the neck while my therapist massaged facial pressure points. The unwrapping of the towel segues into summer. From here, diverse massage techniques from around the globe are experienced. An application of coco vanilla shea butter and oil introduces the scents of summer in a massage medley that includes Thai, lomi-lomi (a technique from Hawaii), reflexology as well as aromatherapy. Ayurvedic herbs from India heralds autumn’s mellow fruitfulness. An herbal scalp treatment incorporates warm water in a luxuriantly soothing massage that cleanses and nourishes the scalp and increases blood flow – which in turn promotes hair growth and health. With my head gently wrapped in a warm towel to enhance the herbal action, I entered the state-of-the-art steam room replete with tiny windows made of eclectic glass for perfect bliss and relaxation. This envigorating treatment was simply a slice of heaven on earth.
My sister Michelle Soliven (a new spa convert since she had her first treatment in Mandala in Boracay last year) and my best buddy Büm Tenorio were the last ones to arrive in our villa after the treatment. They both had three hours of spa treatment. Bum availed of the Tropical Rain which he described as the "ultimate spa experience" because the treatment involved a calming, warm red ginger body polish prior to laying beneath the gentle caress of tropical rainfall. Michelle, on the other hand, looked glorious after her Healing Herbal Blend where her skin was revitalized using a polish which combined black rice, hibiscus blended with basil and rosemary mud wrap. "And yes," Michelle said, "the nurturing herbal bath soak is divine."
From our villa-nest in the Four Seasons at Sayan, we checked in at our royal suites at the Wanandi Palace for what was referred to as the wedding event of the year in Indonesia. After being pampered like kings and queens, we felt brand new. We joined the merrymaking at their sprawling garden with the other guests from all over the world. Deep inside us, there was this feeling of elation derived from that unforgettable, sensuous paradise. Our stay at The Four Seasons at Sayan awakened our senses, enlivened our spirits and healed our souls. Like manna from heaven, it was truly a moment of real grace.
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