Singapore: City of the future with its soul in the past
August 10, 2003 | 12:00am
Early Malay history records state that Singapura was founded in the 11th century by a mighty Sri Vijavan ruler, Sri Tri Buana, Prince of Pelambang. The prince chanced upon the sight of a great lion guarding the mouth of a river. To the Sri Vijayans, the lion was a powerful omen and a symbol of royalty. Sri Tri Buana gave his new capital Singapura the monicker "city of the lion" and moved his royal court to the island. In February 1819, Sir Stamford Raffles rowed into the Singapore River passing the promontory which formed the entrance to the river. He wondered if this was, indeed, a mythical lion standing guard over the ancient city. At the tip of the promontory lay a large stone monument, inscribed with an ancient script. Raffles was certain he found the lost city of Singapura. He raised the British flag and restored to the island the name Singapore. In 1919, Singapore passed its first centenary with jubilant celebrations. The year was dotted with a rush of public festivities and exciting projects. The biggest and most ambitious was the Fullerton Building, the most outstanding structure ever built in Singapore. Located on the entire peninsula of Fort Fullerton with commanding views of the river and the harbor, the Fullerton was the epitome of the new wealth and power of Singapore, and the enterprise and industry of its people. Indeed, it was a monument worthy of the city.
Over 70 years have passed since the first stone was laid for a building that was to become both a monument to an age, an icon of Singapore’s spirit and ingenuity. With its restoration into a landmark hotel, the historical significance and classic architecture made the building eminently suited for a grand hotel. Capturing the personality of a boutique hotel, views from the 400 rooms and suites are unrivalled. I could only imagine, as I stood in its monumental lobby, that in its early years this structure housed the General Post Office, the Exchange, the Chamber of Commerce and the Singapore Town Club, all of which played important economic roles in ensuring that Singapore remained the trading hub in South East Asia. With its imposing and intricately-designed columns and porte cocheres, the Fullerton represents the height of Palladian architecture with only two other buildings sharing this grandeur – the City Hall and the Supreme Court.
Fullerton’s dashing GM Gerhard Kropp welcomed my friends – CNBC anchor Rico Hizon with wife Melanie, Wiggy Funtanilla, Celeste Soliven, Dave Fabros and Noel Ferrer – and I as we graced the launching of the new menu at the Town Restaurant. Four chefs par excellence exquisitely prepared delicacies of Asia Pacific – Japanese and local flavors – as well as Italian. The ambiance was splendid with its clean, cool interior, finished in teak and leather to its waterside terrace with scenic views of the river promenade and historic civic district.
I overheard a businessman saying, "Did you know that according to a group of international bankers, Asia has replaced Europe as having the finest hotels today and Asian hotels today are the bastion of hotel excellence? The bankers went to the limit and voted several Asian hotels as the best in the world, outranking such fine hotels as the Ritz in Paris, the Savoy in London and the Astoria in New York." As our champagne glasses clinked away, we rekindled friendships in this grand hotel.
Truly, Singapore is a city of the future with its soul in the past. True to form, when I visited the Chinatown Heritage Centre (CHC), I was moved by the secrets and stories of impoverished migrants who made the perilous journey to Singapore. Housed in three beautifully restored shop houses along Pagoda St., the CHC showcases the rich cultural heritage of the early Chinatown settlers. This unique center is a joint effort by the Singapore Tourism Board and the National Heritage Board. From steep and narrow staircases to a charcoal-stained kitchen, everything here is a collection of memories from its former residents. It was eerie to experience walking down a dark, musty corridor and viewing the cramped cubicles that housed many families in the past. These migrants from China who came to work here were sojourners once before. Today, they are no longer sojourners but part of Chinatown. The Asian Civilizations Museum, named after Queen Victoria, Empress of India, is another historical and cultural site worth visiting.
The sentimental journey down memory lane in these museums was a touching experience that gave me a better appreciation of this ultra-progressive and antiseptically clean city. I realized that this tropical forest that thrives in a city of skyscrapers has emerged with flying colors from her beleaguered past. Today, it is a microcosm of the best the world has to offer. It was a real treat to go shopping at Suntec City Mall and Mustafa, a 24-hour shopping haven where you can get anything you want – luggage, electronics, watches and more at the most affordable prices. For nature lovers, imagine having a close encounter with different animals that can be found just a few minutes from cosmopolitan buildings in the city. Check out the world’s first and only Night Safari, a new and exciting adventure combining the comfort of a zoo environment and the vastness of a national wildlife park. Under the magical night sky, we explored the beautiful and unusual wildlife in their natural jungle setting as they roam freely through the safari’s lush vegetation. Since 90 percent of animals are nocturnal, the best time to see them is at night when they are most active. In fact, you’ll find that the animals come alive at night and behave completely different from their customs at the daytime zoo. A tour of the Night Safari’s twilight world begins by tram. The airy, open-sided vehicles glide slowly, sometimes gently bumping over cattle grids into large drive-through areas where animals graze freely. On occasion, the tram stops, giving right-of-way to an herd of samba or hog deer as they crisscross the loop roads on their own nightly outing around the park. It is not uncommon for the usually timid thamin or tapir to approach the tram, barely out of reach of the passengers, staring curiously for a few moments before retreating into the shadows. The Night Safari is home to more than 1,200 animals of over 110 exotic species, many of whom are making their debut in Singapore. Like the Cape buffalo, African bongo, blue sheep, striped hyena, golden jackal, and the rare and magnificent greater one-horned rhinoceros, to name a few of the zoo’s distinguished residents. We hope they’ll be here to stay as many are dangerously close to extinction. Naturally, the Night Safari also serves as an important conservation center for the breeding of rare and endangered species, especially from this region. What makes the Night Safari experience different from any zoo is that for the first time, you’ll see the animals engaging in their active night lives – prowling, hunting, feeding, and playing.
Next morning was spent at the Sentosa Island resort. This sprawling 390-hectare recreational playground was a former fishing village. Today, one can soak in the rays under swaying palm trees, dive into a shark-infested tank, hit the designer courses for a round of golf, or gyrate the night away at one of the island’s legendary beach parties. When it comes to romance, amor is definitely in the Sentosa air. Say "I do" on the southermost point of Continental Asia as the sun sets behind you. Come over to the all-new Musical Fountain show, "Magical Sentosa," and be acquainted with a whole cast of characters in this S$4-million sound, light and laser extravaganza. There’s the adorable monkey, Kiki, who will lead you into a secret Sentosa populated by his wonderful friends. Take a walk through the lush surrounds of the Butterfly Park and allow 1,500 live butterflies – from over 50 species – to flutter about you as you linger in the cool outdoor conservatory. At the Live Pupae house, witness the miracle of life as young butterflies spread their wings for the first time.
The Sentosa has just opened Spa Botanica, Singapore’s first destination spa and one of the biggest spas in the region. It is a 6,000-square-meter facility with 20 treatment rooms including private VIP pavilions with their own gardens, and extensive and unique indoor and outdoor treatment facilities.
From the island resort, we sampled their delightful local food which you can find literally anytime and anywhere, from central downtown locations to easily accessible dining destinations outside the city center. To fully experience the gastronomic gems Singapore has to offer, do as the locals do. Grab a quick, cheap bite at colorful hawker food stalls and find yourself entering a new culinary realm. Must-tries include Hainanese chicken rice, bak kuh teh, fishhead curry and chili crab.
For dinner, our ever-so-bubbly and affable tour guide, Wee Tee, brought us to the gorgeous My Humble House Restaurant at the newly built Esplanade. We had a sumptuous meal of braised cod fish, tofu, squid, and pandan and coconut ice cream served in a bowl of dry ice. The lights were dimmed and the misty effect from the ice was so dramatic. Besides the shopping and dining arcade, Esplanade theaters on the bay sit on six hectares of prime waterfront land at Marina Bay, which is part of Singapore’s civic district that comprises other heritage, arts and entertainment facilities. The S$600-million development cost of Esplanade was contributed by the Singapore Pools and Singapore Totalisator Board. The architecture of Esplanade is so conspicuous that it resembles two giant durian fruits. If you are viewing it from the top, however, Esplanade looks like giant microphones.
As my friends and I had a taste of the world’s only sky dining – aboard a cable car amid an ever-changing 360° breathtaking view, I chanced upon the gigantic Merlion statue. Perhaps this mythical lion, which symbolizes royalty and power, is truly the guardian of this dynamic city. Indeed, Singapore roars to soaring heights!
E-mail author at miladay@pacific.net.ph.
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