In December 1995, the World Heritage List of UNESCO listed the Ifugao Rice Terraces – covering 20,000 hectares that span the towns of Banaue, Hungduan, Mayoyao and Kiangan – as the first living cultural landscape. In the Philippines, the other tourist sights proudly include in the World Heritage List are the Tubattaha Reef Marine Park, Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park, the Baroque churches of the Philippines and the historic town of Vigan in Ilocos Sur.
Together with Rep. Alfredo Marañon of Negros Occidental who chairs the Committee on Agriculture, Food and Fisheries; soil erosion consultant Noah Manarang; OIC director Virgie Agcopra and executive assistant Lia Anonas (from the Congressional Oversight Committee on Agriculture and Fisheries Modernization), we took the 10-hour drive to Banaue to find immediate solutions to save the rice terraces from soil erosion, the proliferation of giant worms, as well as prevent it from completely drying up. We were welcomed by Ifugao Rep. Solomon Chungalao at the well-appointed Banaue Hotel operated by the Philippine Tourism Authority. At the Imbayah festival held at the town plaza, we watched Ifugao men garbed in traditional wear running after a big black greased pig. While watching the games, my sister Michelle Soliven delightfully sampled their tapuey (rice wine) for the wine-tasting contest.
The next day, we proceeded to the Mayoyao rice terraces located 41 kilometers from Banaue. Joining us were Rep. Jesli Lapuz of Tarlac, Albay Rep. Krisel Lagman-Luistro, and former Manila Rep. Sandy Ocampo. At some point during our trip, we encountered a roadblock – a rock the size of a 10-wheeler truck blocked our way. But thanks to dynamite, the road was cleared in 40 minutes! Stand-up comedian Bum Tenorio entertained us with his song and dance numbers while we waited. After the road was cleared, we had a blast of a time the rest of the way.
Just a two-hour drive via a winding road is the municipality of Mayoyao, where the world’s most majestic, yet still undiscovered, rice terraces await the more adventurous traveler. Cozily snuggled in the bosom of the Central Cordillera mountain ranges, it has earned the monicker of the "Land of Eternal Spring." It has a land area of 360 sq. km. and is one of the 11 towns in Ifugao Province. Spellbound, we trekked to Mayoyao’s foremost attraction – stone-walled rice terraces stretching from the mountain-perched barangay of Chaya to the banks of the legendary Penangah River downstream. Each terrace wall is carefully paved with stones, some so huge that it was a wonder how ordinary mortals without modern equipment were able to transport the stones from the river below. With bare hands and crude wooden tools, the Ifugaos had built an enduring marvel that baffles even modern-day engineers.
Other tourist attractions here are Mt. Amuyao being the 8th highest mountain in the country, the glorious Mahencha and Tenogtog waterfalls, A ‘Fo-Or which is a large mausoleum containing the bodies of the town’s native warriors and Mt. Nagchayan, a town where Japanese troops under Gen. Yamashita fought fierce battles during WWII.
In Mayoyao, we attended the indigenous annual town fiesta called "Igkhumtad Ad Majawjaw," a colorful tapestry of tradition meant to relive the revered cultural customs of their ancestors.
We checked out the Philippine Tourism Authority (PTA) property – a cozy log cabin in the mountains which just needs P3.5 million to be completed. With the structure operational, more people can enjoy the Eighth Wonder of the Natural World. This dream for the terraces to be accessible to the world will be easily realized with the servicing of commercial airlines to Bagabag Airport in Nueva Vizcaya, about 90 minutes away from Banaue.
After a sumptuous dinner of taro with ginger, succulent lengua, beef with cheese, mountain rice and leche flan, we huddled around a bonfire to keep us warm on that chilly night. As we sipped piping hot mountain coffee, we discussed the beauty of the rice terraces and what action to take to save it.
Earlier that day, Rep. Marañon and Noah held a dialogue with local agriculture officials and farmers affected by soil erosion. It was alarming to find out that in Mayoyao alone, 20 percent of the rice terraces have been destroyed by erosion while another 50 percent are already deteriorating. The giant worms, on the other hand, have created holes on the terraces and dried up the soil. The commercial pesticides they used also killed the fishes thriving within the terraces. With proven effectiveness in controlling and preventing soil erosion, Vetiver grass technology will be utilized in the terraces. Noah, who we fondly call the Vetiver Queen, is one of the 13 individuals from around the world cited by the Vetiver Network for outstanding work in this field. Formerly with the Department of Environment and Natural Resources, she learned this technology from a study grant project of His Majesty, King Bhumibol Adulyadej of Thailand in 1994.
"One of the special characteristics of the Vetiver grass, also called the miracle grass, is its three-meter roots that grow vertically at the rate of one foot every month. It can thrive in extreme conditions such as drought, submergence in water, toxic and acidic soil," Noah enthused. Being very affordable, the farmers were very receptive and eager to try it. Apart from being organic, the grass blends aesthetically with the terraces having the same appearance as the rice.
Hedgerows of the grass could be planted on the edge of the terraces for the roots to bind the stonewall with the soil. With its fibrous roots and its natural insect repelling properties, the worms may be deterred from digging their way through the walls of the terraces. A program is being drawn out to train local agricultural officers to propagate the grass with proper applications in planting them on the terraces. The team hopes to source enough funding to implement the program. For now, select pilot sites are being planned. Vetiver can also be used as roofing materials for the native huts which have since given way to galvanized iron sheets because of the depletion of cogon grass. The Lonely Planet travel book even wrote that "it’s a pity to see these iron roofs that glisten under the sun." Vetiver grass for the roofs will bring back the rustic charm of the huts as they sit nestled at the heart of the terraces. Vetiver leaves can be made into baskets, mats and souvenir items as well.
We were exhausted by midnight but had the best sleep ever in our authentic Ifugao hut perched on a hill. As we watched the sunrise over the majestic terraces the following day, we realized there truly is splendor in the grass. We should get our act together before it’s too late for this kind of beauty and grandeur comes but once in a lifetime.
For more info, contact Banaue Hotel & Youth Hostel at (074) 386-4087; telefax (074) 386-4088; Cordillera Administrative Region Tourism Office, (074) 442-8848
E-mail the author at miladay@pacific.net.ph