Wild river run in Cagayan

I just discovered an exhilarating sport called white-water rafting, which was tried recently by President Gloria Macapagal-Arroyo and First Gentleman Mike Arroyo. According to Action Asia Adventure Travel Guide to the Philippines, "It is only in the last few years that paddlers have begun exploring Philippine rivers." Too bad because our geography provides excellent runs: a lot of our mountains are nestled near the ocean and the water pathways head straight to the sea, thus resulting in rivers suitable for rafting and kayaking.

In Mindanao and Luzon, where rivers build up large volumes, rafting is ideal. According to rafting aficionados Yvonne and Pael Romualdez, Cagayan de Oro boasts superb rafting. The Romualdez couple —— together with environmentalist Mary Noah Manarang and teeners Nikki and Christel Boncan —— led a white-water sojourn to two of the Philippines’ most remarkable rivers: Bubunawan River and Cagayan River, both are recent discoveries by white-water enthusiasts.

The Bubunawan River roars out of the forested north slope of Mt. Kitanglad, cuts through the Bukidnon plain, and merges with the Cagayan River just four kilometers from the Cagayan de Oro airport. This makes it the most accessible white-water river in the country, as well as one of the most challenging. The Cagayan River has a somewhat less radical pace than Bubunawan.

The adventure tour is operated by dynamic duo Rupert Domingo and Randy Corrales, whom we met after a 40-minute ride from our meeting place in Chowking, Cagayan de Oro City. First stop was the Macahambus Cave, which was the last stronghold of Filipino revolutionaries who defeated a better-equipped American troop in 1900. Travelers are advised to bring a bright lamp and walk through the cave to a point overlooking the Cagayan River for a breathtaking view.

We navigated steep iron steps about 50 meters down to a part of a river flowing through a gorge and gurgling out through a cave. We were told that long ago the underground roof collapsed, creating this massive hole now filled with lush vegetation. There are also tall trees; one of them poking its way through the top. According to Rupert, people can go rappelling down the walls of the gorge; a short walk through it brings you to a spectacular view of the Cagayan River hundreds of feet below. There’s actually a hut built at the top to serve as a marker to honor the Filipino and American soldiers who lost their lives during the war.

(In these caves, the Filipinos set up bamboo traps and pushed their foes to their death. The streets are named after these courageous Filipino soldiers —— one of them was the grandfather of our guide Randy Corrales.)

Next stop was Cagayan River for our three-and-a-half hour river run. After checking our helmets, life vests and paddles, we were given instructions on how to paddle and what to do if we fell off the raft. As we climbed onto our rafts, Rupert explained that they operate all-year round because the water comes from Lanao River so even in the hot summer months the Cagayan River still offers Level 3 rafting —— which was what we encountered.

We shot 14 rapids, which we have to admit was quite tiring but nonetheless exciting. Some of them were actually quite rough. Nikki fell off – thank God she tumbled into the raft. In between the rapids were calm waters which proved inviting; we jumped off the rafts, swam and basked under the glorious sun. We were awed by the lush vegetation which remains unspoiled and untouched. Overlooking a marvelous view, we rested for lunch. Using the overturned rafts as our dining table, Rupert and Randy shared their concern for the preservation of the river and surrounding areas over a delicious meal of grilled kitang with soy sauce, calamansi and sili, crabs, shrimps, lechong manok, rice wrapped in banana leaves, green mango and refreshing drinks.

As we reached the end of our white-water sojourn, we savored the sight of the last of its rapids. As a graduation rite, we were made to jump of a cliff about 20 feet high and shout "U-S-S-R!"– testament to our guides’ sense of humor.

Our next adventure took place at the Philippine Ostrich and Crocodile Farm. This remarkable farm has over 800 ostriches of all ages and sizes privately bred for their meat (which tastes just like tender beef), feathers, and skin (which is transformed into exotic bags, wallets, exotic oils and cosmetics).

Heinzi Lim gave us a truly enlightening tour around the farm of ostriches and over 200 crocodiles. It made us proud to visit this place which we thought only existed in South Africa and Thailand.

The sun was beginning to set on the horizon as we bid goodbye to our newfound friends. We met up with the rest of the clan and had dinner at the famous Kagay-anon Restaurant in Rosario Arcade, Limketkai center in Cagayan de Oro City. Gracious manager Russel Yee Awat proudly enthused that the restaurant was the recipient of the Kalinisan Award of Excellence and the Healthy Eating Place Award. We sampled the tastiest native delicacies and Filipino cuisine consisting of the restaurant’s famous kinilaw tanigue in a clam shell, pinakbet served inside a fresh squash shell, piping hot bulalo, huge crabs cooked in coconut milk and sili, as well as sinangag served in a bamboo tube. We took home several kilos of the tender marinated ostrich tapa, but then I remembered my new feathered friends at the farm. You know what? I’d rather watch them at play.

For more information on white-water rafting, call Rupert (cell no. 0917-3863195). For information on Kagay-anon restaurant and the Philippine Ostrich and Crocodile Farm, call (08822) 728958/729003.

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E-mail me at miladay@pacific.net.ph.