MANILA, Philippines - Where should we eat now?” So many times I have been asked this question, and yet, even after trying almost every new restaurant in town, I still find it difficult to give an answer. Qualifiers help filter the possibilities, so I ask: “Which area do you prefer? What’s your budget? What cuisine do you want to try? Are you going with a date or a group of friends?” And still, the answer I usually get is “Any. I’ll try anything!” Thanks, but not really.
I can always pick from my trusty list of favorite restaurants and ask you to head there. Off the top of my head, I have choices in Makati, BGC, and some unassuming off-the-grid alleys; for Filipino, Vietnamese, Italian, and every permutation of the term “fusion”; and for days of splurging (on yourself, hopefully!) and days of frugality. But the deal is, they’re not exactly brand-new and you’ve probably eaten there already.
Despite having an overly saturated restaurant scene, Manila seems to be lagging behind on making food exciting and appealing for its discerning eaters. Sure, we’re quick to jump on the latest trends: salted-egg everything, black food, Korean cheese fondue, smoothie bowls, rainbow bagels, avocado toast, and cotton candy-crowned, marshmallow-studded, glitter-sprinkled shakes. And don’t forget about food parks that are slowly beating all things truffled for the number one trendiest spot. Yet these restaurants serving food du jour are serving only that — food that’s good to try because you’ve seen it on someone’s social media feed or because an #influencer posted about it. What has become of our outlook on the essence of food? It’s turned out to be an obsession, especially for millennials, to chase after photogenic food. But after sinking your teeth into it and post-editing your hundredth photo with layers of filters, does the high live on and keep you excited enough to try it over and over again? A restaurant being labeled good-to-try rarely translates to good-to-come-back-to, which is unfortunate for both the business owner and the eater.
For a time, the trend was foreign franchises opening on our shores. Most of them got us excited, curtailing the need to fly out to satisfy cravings for that authentic bowl of ramen, pork bun, or juicy burger. But that excitement dwindled just as quickly as they opened up shop. Past their hype, many have shut their doors permanently and many are still struggling to survive. You’ll notice things aren’t going too well once restaurants introduce something like a binagoongan ramen on their menu. Fun, creative up to some point, and hype-worthy, but are they sustainable?
Comic by GABY SERRANO
Look to our neighbors like Hong Kong, Singapore and Bangkok, who all have exciting food scenes. What are they doing right? They all have a good number of locally developed concepts that don’t rely on trends, but actually keep their markets excited. How? By having a strong sense of their own food cultures based on traditions; and from there, both restaurateurs and eaters share the responsibility of producing really good, imaginative, unabashed food. In these locales, all parties know and hanker only for the food they deserve.
So, here’s my suggestion — and challenge — to those who believe they also deserve better food: Start at home. We can’t deny that good food comes from our own kitchens, where we can hone our taste buds to appreciate valuable grub, and where we can get a grasp of our own food culture. Eat whatever’s on the dinner table; ask what the older generations enjoyed; grab your mom’s food magazine and cook up a storm if you have to. It was at home, through the creations of my beloved grandmother, where I first rooted my love for really good food, and not through eating out constantly. It was at home that I discovered the true flavors of adobo, the complexities of paella Valenciana, and the satisfaction provided by the classic pamplina. I still check out new restaurants, but my liking for them is contrasted with the level of comfort provided by home-cooked meals. It’s the food barometer that helps me see beyond trends and appreciate a well-crafted dish.
We’ve placed so much premium on eating out these past several years that we sometimes set aside cravings for homecooked dishes. I suggest we surrender to these homier desires first before venturing out to find that “next big food trend.” This way, we develop our palates and demand even more from food entrepreneurs. It’s a simple initiative to push them to become more ingenious and generous in their kitchens. Our tummies deserve only the best, and nothing satisfies a hungry soul more than a homecooked meal. So, where should eat for now? At home!