One
If the term “seasonless” is a word to go by in fashion circles, then anything that blurs lines and stereotypes has got to be the trend then. By becoming desensitized with the hectic pace of fashion and the aggressiveness of fast vertical brands, neatly positioned shows twice a year—that dictate what you need to wear now—becomes background noise. And the voice that we all hear in our heads is disciplined dressing. Restrained editing and buying of pieces that would enhance wardrobes and could transcend seasonal directions. That favorite look last summer is bound to transition into holiday anyway, albeit maybe with a different coat of paint.
This new, pared-down minimalism has clothing reduced to absolute pure lines and functionality. And this is where the “One” concept comes in. In the mid-1990s, the millennial generation sprayed on the Calvin Klein scent that’s shared. No boxes to tick off here. It was just one. The genderless notion was born. Fashion though, has long been a fan. Gender-bending had the ladies incorporating masculine tailoring and men with romantic frills and pretty pastel colorings. But never has it been more pronounced than now. Designer Rad Hourani—him of the super slick, dark knight, uberchic architecturally lean trappings—explains it perfectly: “When I say unisex, it’s really about looking at the lines. They’re straight, there are no curves, they don’t have a feminine or masculine edge. It is completely genderless, something that has no reference.”
And if something has no reference, think about the possibilities. Like a blank canvass that you can work on and add on to, a clean slate is a platform for everything else. Rad Hourani’s aesthetic is one that’s direct and simple. His clothes will always work for both sexes and is precision-balanced in a way that everything is symmetrical-transformable too in the flexible form of zippers. Jacket into a vest or interchangeable sleeves in totally different finishes. It’s like that 100-way dress, but way, way cooler.
The Asexual Boat
Acne Jeans, though not in the same asexual boat, has their own take with their “cross-dress” collection. Created to have some playful role displacements, classic masculine western button-downs come with exaggerated bows and ruffle trims. Acne founder Jonny Johansson says: “This collection touches on ideas I have played with when designing for Acne, the tension between male and female and what happens when you shift things around a bit.”
Locally, we have Eairth. The 101 percent sustainable luxury line of designer Melissa Dizon. With a roll in, roll out concept of love-worn clothes meant to be completely genderless, it’s a collection of easy, slouchy, seamless pieces that you can sleep in and even wear out. Literally. And with her notion of creating “new classics,” these anti-fashion ensembles—from roomy, hand-screen graphic tees to cozy, washed, drop-crotch trousers—can exchange hands from boy to girl to boy and more importantly, weather the oftentimes brutal cycle of fast fashion. And if you’ve lived under a rock and not know Eairth, well, you can either go to her showroom in Makati (Soumak, 101 Bormaheco Condominium Metropolitan Avenue, Zapote St. Makati), or go online and buy her stuff on Barney’s. Starting September, the luxury department store carries her Autumn/Winter 2010 line. Sweet.
I like androgyny. (As if that wasn’t obvious enough). There’s untold freedom in between the zones that promise unrestrained sartorial creativity. But in the end though, even if the “One” style utopia is a scenario where all the ducks in the pond are happy, asexual dressing is not meant for all. Maybe in the future it could be. But right now, it’s a utopia shared by only a few. One really is a lonely number.