The golden age of H. Stern
The story of H.Stern jewelry began in the 1940s when Hans Stern was a 23-year-old typist for a trading company. Some workdays begin ordinarily enough, with no hint of any life-changing consequences laid out in the day’s agenda. One day at the office, Stern spotted a small mound of gemstones on someone’s desk. As he held the glittering rocks and carefully transferred them from one hand to another, he made a decision that would alter not only his future, but an entire industry’s.
As Stern grew his business, he focused on creating and promoting an international interest in precious colored stones. If it weren’t for him, the dazzling aquamarine, tourmaline, amethyst and topaz would not be so valued today. Before Stern, the market and the fine jewelry industry focused solely on diamonds and the so-called oriental stones — rubies, sapphires, and emeralds. Through Hans’ efforts, the “other colored gemstones” became desirable, and were ultimately called “Brazilian colored stones” whether they were actually found in Brazil or not.
In 1995, when Roberto, Stern’s oldest son took over as president and chief designer, he decided that he wanted the jewelry’s design to be valued more highly than the stones used in its manufacture, and for each piece to reflect the customer’s lifestyle and desires. Under his guidance, H.Stern went through an extensive restructuring process. In the product development area, the company started to observe and interpret behavioral, style and fashion trends, and continued to launch collections inspired by various personalities, with the most recent collection inspired by fashion designer and cultural icon Diane von Furstenberg, which was first launched in New York in 2004.
Recently, three collections from H.Stern appeared in the glass cases of the Adora department store, namely the Oscar Niemeyer collection, the Celtic Dunes collection, and the Grupo Corpo collection. Together, they are the top three collections from H.Stern’s yellow gold and noble gold lines. Noble gold is a special innovation of H.Stern; the alloy and proportions of each metal of the mixture are “H.Stern Secret.” It took more than two years of studies and more than 180 metallic combinations in order to achieve the unique alloy of metals that resulted in a new color of 18k gold: it is neither white nor yellow, yet retains the refinement of white gold and warmth of yellow gold. Its neutral tone is flattering to all skin types and can easily be paired with white or yellow gold.
H.Stern has always sought design inspiration in nature, architecture, cultural identity, and history. Last year, the brand decided to collaborate with famed Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer, considered one of the most influential names in international modern architecture. The H.Stern by Oscar Niemeyer is the initiative of Roberto Stern, who always gave special emphasis to organic and sinuous forms in jewelry. The collection, in 18k gold and diamonds, is composed of six different lines, which are named after some of his most famous projects: Copan (after the Copan building in Sao Paulo), Brasilia (Niemeyer designed the futuristic city of Brasilia in the ‘50s), Pampulha (from the sinuous roof design of the Sao Francisco de Assis church in Pampulha), Sketch (inspired by the sketches hanging in his office), Curves (his architectural signature), and Flower (created in reference to his appreciation for open spaces).
The Celtic Dunes collection, originally launched in 2008, is one of H.Stern’s most famous and successful collections. It was inspired by the disseminated adornments and drawings full of repetitive symbols through many countries of the Celtic tribes of medieval Europe. These interconnected symbols are the main references for the collection, primed with exquisite texture and finishing work. Cut-out earrings, large rings, and cuff bracelets create the illusion of continuous, infinite sand dunes, in textured 18k yellow gold. Other pieces in polished 18k noble gold, pave-set with white diamonds, add power and glamour to the interwoven lines of this collection.
The H.Stern + Grupo Corpo collection, launched in 2009, was inspired by Grupo Corpo ballets, specifically the Benguelê ballet (1998), which presents Brazilian music and popular dances influences. The marked rhythm of those dances, punctuated by hip movements that reverberate through the whole body, was translated into long and articulated earrings, bracelets, and necklace in which gold discs were finished with the texture of arid, desert-like soil, revealing the African ancestry that permeate Brazilian culture and history.
These pieces are a departure from the myriad colored gemstones that were H.Stern’s original signature. This time around, the looks are decidedly modern, yet sensuous. More than style, however, they fit the needs of the wearer, which is H.Stern’s foremost concern. Beyond mere adornments, H.Stern jewelry is versatile, comfortable to wear, and built to last for the next generation.
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In the Philippines, H.Stern is exclusively available at Adora in Greenbelt 5, Ayala Center, Makati.