Guling Guling of Paoay: Truly a galing galing festivity!
MANILA, Philippines - Rio in Brazil is famous for the samba orgy that is Mardi Gras. New Orleans celebrates Fat Tuesday with much revelry and drinking. Paoay, Ilocos Norte, in keeping with its deep Catholic roots, has a much more somber festivity called Guling Guling.
It is a day of dancing and drinking too (of the native basi, made from sugar cane juice), with native rice cakes called dudol and impaltao (both are made with sugarcane juice and ground rice flour) prepared and consumed by the community. Interestingly, the British call the day before Ash Wednesday Shrove Tuesday when they would clean up the flour and oil in their cupboards—and make all the pancakes they can. It is the last day prior to the 40 days of fasting in Lent, hence people would use up the eggs and flour, cleaning up the larder, as well as cleaning up “spiritually.”
In Ilocano, guling refers to the cross on the forehead of the inhabitants that is marked using white rice flour. The ritual marking, a prelude to the ashen cross made on Ash Wednesday, is an indication of cleansing in preparation for the coming Cuaresma.
Being one of the centers of abel loon weaving, the Paoayenos don native costumes made from hand- woven fabric, and dance to the tune of a graceful kumintang. Everyone brings out their Sunday finery, with some of the older ladies showing off their gold tambourines and crosses. The town’s 31 barangays were divided into 10 groups that danced through the streets, culminating with a “showdown” in front of the picturesque San Agustin church, a UNESCO Heritage Site. While the town has become a bastion of the Philippine Independent Church (whose co-founder Bishop Gregorio Aglipay hails from Batac, next door to Paoay), it retains this unique centuries-old Lenten tradition of ritual purification.
All in the community: Guling Guling is a day of dancing and drinking. Native rice cakes called dudol and impaltao are prepared and consumed by the community. There are those who conjecture that there is probably a pagan underpinning to the practice similar to Valentine’s Day; the tradition that places the birth of Jesus in late December, the darkest time of the year; and the timing for Easter right after the vernal equinox. Even if it were so, this does not detract from the fervent faith of a simple people.
While Guling Guling has a long history, it is only recently that the citizens of Paoay have decided to highlight the practice through an annual festival, with food preparations, parades, street dancing, and fireworks. Many people are still not aware of this quaint local festival, but the TV networks and other media have been increasing their coverage in recent years. It is hoped that a bigger mass audience will be able to experience this rich Ilocos tradition in the coming years.
Guling Guling is one of the cultural offerings of Sitio Remedios. For reservations, call Josue Raymund C. Baroña at 0917-3320217.
