Beauty blockbusters

I never thought I’d come to dread looking at the mirror. Just recently, I discovered a spider web of very fine lines on one side of my face. I panicked. I just celebrated my birthday a month ago and this discovery downplayed the celebratory aspect, as if the lines were taunting reminders that I was slowly slinking into the late twenties category and was not exempted from anything being in this age group signifies.

Now, I have nothing against aging gracefully — if I had crow’s feet when I turn 50, I’d refer to them as laugh lines and the true marks of life full of experiences. But neither grace nor age had anything to do with the fine lines that now criss-cross my face a few years shy of 30 years old. Rather, it was old-fashioned irresponsibility and delusions of invincibility that did me in — coming into my 20s I stayed out in the sun too much and too long with barely any sun protection on, thinking that a spate of heat rashes and a too vivid tan was the worst thing that could happen to me. On hindsight, I also realize that, beach person that I am, I didn’t know enough about sun protection and how damaging the sun can actually be.

It’s not enough to just slather on sunscreen with the highest SPF at the beach and think that you had no more cause to worry about skin cancer and sun-caused premature skin aging. As skincare brand Dermalogica’s Solar Defense line shows, sun protection goes beyond choosing the highest SPF. We have been trained to think that an SPF50 gives better protection than a sunscreen with SPF30. While it may seem that a product with an SPF higher than 30 would offer a dramatically increased protection rate from UVB rays (those pesky rays which cause premature aging), it is mostly comprised of an increased level of sunscreen chemicals, which cause a higher rate of irritation in skin, and provide little increase in the amount of UVB protection. The SPF of a sunscreen begins to level off as the number goes higher: for example, an SPF15 blocks 93.3 percent of UVB rays, while an SPF30 blocks 96.6 percent.

Neither is sunscreen particular to just sunny locations such as the beach. UV rays are present everywhere and can penetrate your skin anytime, whether you’re frolicking at the sea shore, or walking down the street, sitting in traffic in your car (remember: the glass windows of your car attract light, and the heat of the sun). We should value sun protection as a mandatory step in the at-home skin care regimen, and should not only prioritize it during hot summer days or when taking a beach trip.

The one thing sunscreen can be specific on is skin type. Some chemicals found in sunscreen, especially those with a high SPF, can cause skin irritation, especially on sensitive or oily skin.

Dermalogica’s Solar Defense system takes into account the generalities and idiosyncrasies that are actually involved when wearing sun protection. Six products in this line combine the latest in sunscreen technology with sophisticated ingredients to provide maximum UV protection while treating each skin’s specific condition. Four of  these products provide triple defense with UVA-blocking sunscreens, UVB-blocking sunscreens and an exclusive UV Smart Booster Technology.

Researchers have discovered that antioxidant vitamins are as important as sunscreens when defending skin from the aging and burning effects of damaging UV light and free radicals. Dermalogica’s UV Smart Booster technology involves customized microcapsules containing active vitamins that burst open upon contact with UV rays, releasing an active ingredient complex of Vitamin C and Vitamin E for maximum free radical protection. This technology provides complete sun protection without the necessity of a high SPF and the higher concentrations of potentially irritating sunscreen ingredients, such as artificial color and synthetic fragrances that come with SPFs beyond 30.

While other brands offer broad-spectrum sunscreen protection, Dermalogica’s updated Solar Defense line contains products formulated specifically for the needs of blemish-prone, prematurely aging, chronically dry and sensitized skin. “The one-size-fits-all approach doesn’t work in any aspect of skin care formulation,” says Dermalogica founder Jane Wurwand, “yet many manufacturers treat sun protection products as though one formulation will be suitable for every skin. We are dedicated to the idea of highly personalized, prescriptive products in every aspect of skin care, including sun protection.”

For skin prone to excess oil production or breakouts, Dermalogica’s Solar Defense line has the Oil Free Matte Block with SPF 20. This moisturizer/sunscreen shields skin from damaging UV rays as well as controls oil and sebum production. A microsponge technology absorbs oil, and helps maintain an all-day matte finish. It also contains soothing green tea to help calm inflammations caused by breakouts.

Chronically dry and prematurely-aging skin will greatly benefit from the Extra Rich Faceblock. This ultra-emollient formula acts as a nourishing moisturizer, and with SPF 30, also makes for a superior sunscreen against UVA and UVB rays. Powerful peptides help stimulate collagen renewal while the brand’s Skin Smoothing Complex helps retexturize skin. Evening primrose and other plant oils replenish and increase skin’s natural defense barrier.

I have sensitive skin and eyeing two products from the Solar Defense line: the Super Sensitive Faceblock with SPF 30 for beach trips and the Ultra Sensitive Faceblock with SPF 25 for everyday, city living use. The former is a chemical-free sunscreen and treatment designed for skin commonly irritated by sun protection ingredients (I usually break out when I apply sunscreen by other brands onto my face). The combined mix of lavender, green tea and licorice help soothe and prevent these irritations while mineral UV-blockers such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide invisibly defend against UV rays.

The Ultra Sensitive Faceblock is also a chemical-free sunscreen but has a light wash of color, making it perfect as a tinted moisturizer. Titanium dioxide reflects both UVA and UVB rays while vitamins A.C. and E create a shield against environmental drying and irritation. Grape seed and green tea extracts help to further soothe the skin.

The skin on our body are also deserving of the protection from the damaging UV rays of the sun. If you are observant enough, you’ll notice that the body also manifests signs of  premature aging through blemishes, spots, and fine lines (when was the last time you took a real good look at your hands?).

The Multivitamin Bodyblock with SPF 20 is especially recommended for prematurely-aging skin. Its fast-absorbing formula contains hyaluronic acid, which instantly hydrates minus the non-sticky, non-greasy after-feel (even sand won’t stick to your skin after applying this lotion). ProVitamin B5 helps skin recover from previous sun damage while vitamins A,C and E help fight off environmental assaults that contribute to visible signs of aging.

If you’re one of those who actually go to the beach to indulge in water activities, than the Waterblock Solar Spray with SPF 30 is a perfect choice. This very water-resistant alcohol-free spray is one of the products formulated with the UV Smart Booster technology, acting as an invisible shield against damaging UV rays. Vitamins C and E protect against environmental assaults while Vitamin A and organic silicones condition skin.

All these face and body blocks also protect against the most common complaint about sun protection: that they are usually thick, white, pasty and leaves an after-feel that evokes images of one simmering in a tub of lard. Dermalogica’s Solar Defense products  all have lightweight and non-greasy formulas, such that the sun protection seems almost invisible.

Had I known about Dermalogica’s new line of suncare products, maybe I wouldn’t have been as hesitant to go on beach trips as I was this summer. And knowing that I now have more of a chance against premature aging, I can go back to looking at the mirror without trepidation.

* * *

Dermalogica Solar Defense products are available at Essenses at Rustan’s Makati, Shangri-La Plaza, Alabang Town Center and Ayala Center Cebu.