Fit to flatter

Personally, the two hardest things to shop for are jeans and shoes – the former because despite their solid claims, there is no singular brand that would cater to all body types (never mind if they have many different styles and cuts), and the latter because, well, my genes simply dictate so. I wear a size 9.5-10, and here in Manila that is quite hard to find. Even if a locally-based shop that sells imported brands carry that size, they would only have, at the most, a couple of pairs. And to add to the mockery of it all, someone always beats me to them.

It is just about impossible for me to buy shoes here. I would hoard my fair share whenever we travel offshore, and with the advent of Internet shopping, my feet have been happier. It is not always foolproof (there still is nothing like trying on the shoes personally), but it definitely is BTN (better than nothing). If at all, my only complaint when it comes to Internet shopping is that, unless you are familiar with the brand and have tried it before, you still risk the chance of a bad fit (that goes for both jeans and shoes).

As you perhaps have already discovered, different shoe brands vary in terms of sizing. If your feet happily fit into a size 9 Stuart Weitzman pump, they may be just as pretty in similar style Sergio Rossi pumps, but this time in a size 10. Sometimes, it is also the style of the shoe that will determine the size you need. Round-toed styles will call for smaller sizes in the same way that their more pointy counterparts will dictate a need for larger pairs. After all, you still have to ensure that toes are comfortable and not squished together in a helpless heap. A perfect example in terms of incongruity in sizing would be Nine West: For high-heeled sandals/open-toed slip-ons, I fit into a 9.5; for their close-toed pointy pumps, my feet are most comfortable in a size 10; but for round-toed ballerina styles, my size goes down to nine. I know of three other people who say the same thing. How strange is that? No, it is not the fault of Nine West, it is just a purely personal thing, simply the way the shoe fits.

As far as jeans are concerned, finding that elusive pair that hugs curves (or lack of) perfectly is already a joy in itself. So, too, does it bring so much confidence that budget constraints is almost always the only factor that stops the happy body from splurging in one go and buying that particular cut in all washes and colors.

Back when I was in college, I found my denim mecca in Levi’s. Even then, I was not particularly fond of the high-waisted cut for ladies, and I instead took a liking to the men’s 501s. Thankfully now, almost all brands have ladies’ jeans in styles and cuts that sit below the natural waist line. That said though, I still do not pass up the chance to check out the men’s section. I remember falling in love with pants from Celio that fit really well. I still have the two pairs I got two years ago hanging in my closet – I don’t think I can let them go.

When I go through the fashion magazines I subscribe to every month, I drool over the many beautiful pieces featured in the glossy pages. I especially look out for features on newer, lesser-known brands or dotcom boutiques that carry items from local designers that have not yet gone mainstream. Somehow, no matter how twisted or shallow it may sound, there is a precious quality to goods that are not mass-produced. But it is almost absurd how much the rich and famous of Hollywood pay for something custom-made.

It is along that line that I point out (more like remind you, actually) how lucky we all are to live in a country forever brimming with talented craftsmen, artists, and designers. Local talent does abound, and the best thing about it is that although they are just as good, they come so much cheaper than their foreign counterparts.

As far as shoes and jeans are concerned, Lila Almario and Ino Caluza have given me lots to smile about. I never thought I would take to wearing flats/skimmers until I chanced upon Delman shoes on a trip to New York. They were so comfortable I could walk in them the whole day and my feet would not hurt. Alas, they only came in one color in Saks, and because we were leaving the following day, there was no time to comb the other New York shops for more styles and colors. I could not shake the shoes off my mind, and upon coming home, I remembered the late Joe Salazar, who would often have shoes made by Lila Almario for his models to use on his shows. I remembered trying on a pair once that was very comfortable.

I sought out Lila, and before our meeting, someone told me that her family was behind Gregg shoes. Now that struck a sentimental note, one that warranted a trip down memory lane. Those were the shoes I wore practically the whole of high school and elementary. So sturdy and durable were they that the only reason you would have to buy a new pair was when your feet would grow out. Knowing that gave me even more reason to go. I already knew the quality would be good and that the shoes would not fall apart on me.

Let me just tell you that with an abundance of options come a truckload of confusion. Lila showed me large swatches of beautiful, soft leather sourced from her travels. There was a panel of earth-colored fabric snaked with golden accents, which I chose for her to make into peep-toe high-heeled sandals. There was also this exquisite material that had images of a Japanese lady – this she designed for pointy skimmers with a sexy, kitten-heels. She also made me metallic thong sandals with chunky, colorful jewel accents that never fail to make strangers come up to me to ask where I had purchased them, especially when I went to Malaysia where they were such a hit. Lila has also made for me ballet flats in pastel colors that are so, so comfortable I can run in them. (Lila’s showroom is at 151 N. Domingo St. San Juan, with tel. nos. 724-4732, 725-2231 and 0917-8910788. Please look for Dory.)

Now, Ino is another story. I first saw a small feature on him in Mega Magazine, and I even clipped it for future reference. Months passed and the night before Valentine’s Day, Richard and I were out at Swiss Inn with some friends when Randy Ortiz pointed out that one of the guys seated on the table behind us was Ino Caluza himself, the man behind Viktor jeans. Turned out Randy had also been meaning to see him. Well, to cut a long story short, off Richard and I went to his shop to be measured. Suffice to say that we are very happy with the finished product. See, Ino does not just make jeans that look good on the hanger. Chances are, they will look even better on your body. Not just any body, specifically your body. He specializes in cuts that hug perfectly. Minimize this, show off that, Ino can and will do it for you. No matter which way your body curves, he will analyze (and yes, troubleshoot) to give you a fit that flatters. He has huge swatchbooks with a dizzying variety of fabrics to choose from. Over and above that, you get to pick out the color of thread you want to be used, the little design details that are exclusively his own, such as the stitching on the back pockets, the finishing on the hemline, the lowness of the cut. You can bring your favorite pair of jeans and he can copy the cut, the basic structure and he will customize it with his own design elements. I tell you this, shopping for pants has never been this much fun. Wearing it and looking good as you do so becomes just icing on the cake. (Ino can be reached at 0917-8504543. Please set an appointment. He needs time to measure you carefully.)

It is great to have cult favorites and branded clothes hanging in our closet. But it is also a wonderful gift to have such talented people in our local shores, whipping up one delightful product after another. The next time you shop, make sure the fit flatters. If not, then why bother?