16 Years of Chalayan on exhibit

ISTANBUL — Having been selected as this year’s European Capital of Culture, now is a great time to visit Istanbul and explore Turkey’s cultural luxury and historical richness.

I’ve been invited to witness the Hussein Chalayan: 1994-2010 Exhibition presented by Istanbul Modern Museum.

The project is a joint effort of the Istanbul Textile and Apparel Exporters’ Association, 2010 European Capital of Culture Agency, Istanbul Fashion 2010, Istanbul Fashion Academy and Design Museum London.

Hussein Chalayan is probably the world’s most famous Turkish-born fashion designer.

Born in the town of Nicosia in 1970, he moved with his family to NK England in 1978, where he obtained British citizenship and studied fashion design at Central Saint Martins in London.

“Temporal Meditations, SS ‘04”: This letterpress printed dress features the historical of Cyprus, the birthplace of Chalayan. The wallpaper used as a backdrop is the same print as the dress.

The special exhibition features a most comprehensive selection of Chalayan’s works throughout 16 years of his career — from fashion collections, art installations, and short films.

It also explores Chalayan’s creative and narrative approach, as well as inspirations and unique concepts drawn from different disciplines that subsequently influenced his work — such as human genetics, technological progression, displacement and migration, and cultural identity.

The touring exhibition was previously displayed at the Design Museum London and Museum Contemporary Art in Tokyo.

The Istanbul Modern exhibition was unveiled to the public last July 15, 2010 and will run until October 24, 2010.

“Airborne, AW ’07”: These lightweight patch-worked silk dresses reflect a human sense of empowerment and mortality linked to weather cycles. The mannequins are mounted on a platform with a fan underneath to create a weightless billowing effect on the clothes.

Donna Loveday, curator of the exhibit, included Chalayan’s signature pieces like “Repose” (an aircraft art installation commissioned by Swarovski Crystals), and two videos: the “Aeroplane Dress” (a fiberglass and resin dress casted in the form of an aircraft) and “After Words” (the theatrical show of his Autumn/Winter 2000 collection featuring wooden furniture pieces transformed into wearable clothes and suitcases).

Bespoke mannequins were specially made for the exhibition — featuring facial expressions ranging from eerie to lively, depending on the theme of the clothes.

Some of the pieces are stunningly framed and mounted on the wall, such as the “Airmail Dress,” made of high-grade paper marked with folding instructions, that can be mailed by post.

One of the highlights of the exhibition is the original piece from his graduate collection in Central Saint Martins — “The Tangent Flows.” This decomposed dress was covered with iron filings, buried in the ground and unearthed after six months to achieve a rustic aged effect.

“Inertia, SS ‘09”: This collection envisions the sequential movement of the garment in a high-speed car. The clothes bear images of wrecked cars and number plates.

Chalayan’s artistic trademark — fashion and technology — can be seen on monumental pieces like the Geotropics’ hi-tech chair dress, and the Swarovski-encrusted shift dress with 15,600 LED lights.

Another major highlight are the two short films directed by Chalayan, best displayed in a spacious dark rooms with multi screens.

Place to Passage is the story of an androgynous female who embarks on a journey from London to Istanbul. It suggests a level of displacement that ultimately binds her to a cocoon-like high-tech vehicle.

Absent Present is a direct response of Chalayan to the harsh regulations on immigration. The film narrates a story of a biologist, played by British actress Tilda Swinton, who conducts a DNA experiment from garments donated by non-British females. Here, Chalayan recreated a scenario on how recognized institutions monitor individuals based on their genetic make-up, examining the neurosis and paranoia in the face of terrorism.

He represented Turkey for this film at the 51st Venice Biennale in 2005.

Istanbul Modern Museum is located at Meclis-i Mebusan Caddessi Liman Isletmeleri Sahasi Antrepo No: 434433 Karakoy, Istanbul. Tramway Station: Tophane

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Special thanks to Asli Ergenc and Lora Sariaslan of Istanbul Modern; Tuna Atala of Turkish Embassy Manila; director Huseyin Ceyhan; Serdak Citlak; and Christina Villarin of Turkish Airlines.