Daniel Palillo designs for no one but himself. He marches to the beat of his own drum. His clothes don’t rely on any ideology. Whatever he creates is a result of spontaneity and an open mind.
Case in point: LA-based creative agency, Triple-Major, invited him to be one of the 31 designers from 13 countries for this year’s Project White T-Shirt. All were asked to transform and redefine the wardrobe staple, in line with the endeavor’s premise — “It’s not just fashion, it’s a (R)evolution.”
The video that documents the making of his version begins with Daniel going to, of all places, a gasoline station in his hometown of Helsinki, Finland. He fills up a flask with petrol, and then — with Wagner’s Ride of the Valkyries playing in the background — proceeds to burn his issued white shirt in a steel bucket. He has no idea how he will put out the flame, but clearly, he is pleased.
His take on the white shirt is its transformation from something into nothing. “Rest in peace,” he says, to the shirt that is now reduced to ashes.
As the video progresses into a short interview, you’ll notice that there’s a little reluctance on his part. Not because of some attitude. He’s just so unpretentious and humble, he mumbles. Cigarette in hand, answers short and to the point, there is just no room for posturing in Daniel’s world.
You can say he’s anti-Establishment. But really, he’s simply all about self-expression.
Dubbed “Helsinki’s own Raf-Simons-Helmut Lang meets death-metal-goth-rave-smurf,” Daniel’s designs are often androgynous, oversized and monochromatic. They also feature his own darkly humorous prints. They’re not exactly for the timid, but more for the quirky, arcane lot.
At this point, it might be hyperbole and a little too soon to call him a “fashion rock star.” But one thing’s for sure, he’s one designer we should follow.
“On The Radar” played 20 Questions with Daniel hoping to get a better idea of what makes this designer tick.
ON THE RADAR: How did your career in fashion begin?
Daniel Palillo: I first studied fine arts. After that, I went on to study fashion. I studied for a couple of years and then sold my first collection.
When did you launch your first collection?
My first real collection was for Spring/Summer 2008. But I have done mini collections since 2006.
Where are your clothes made?
Everything is made here in Europe.
Were you always a buyer for the Helsinki-based store, Wunder?
I was buying both women’s and menswear for Wunder, for the store’s first three seasons.
What were you doing prior to Wunder?
Doing my collection and hanging out with my friends.
What drew you to the world of fashion?
The illusion.
Can you imagine yourself doing anything other than fashion? If so, what profession/industry would it be?
Right now I feel weird working for fashion. I just do what I like to do. I have no need to work in the “fashion world.” I want to do things that make me happy and right now, it’s my collection.
Who do you design for? What type of person/persona do you design for?
I never had a target customer. I design only for myself.
Aside from music and random Google searches, what/where else do you draw inspiration from?
Things around me. Things I can feel and touch.
What kind of music do you listen to?
Anything goes. I am not that picky.
Whose work has influenced you?
I like the work of Aki Kaurismäki, Emir Kusturica, Philippe Galand, Jean-Michel Basquiat and my girlfriend, Laura Laine.
Why are you drawn to oversized designs?
I like the silhouette.
Will you be sticking to your signature, oversized designs or will you be designing fitted looks in the future?
I have no idea. I will do what I feel is right to do at any given time.
Would you say that your designs — which are known to be darkly humorous, funny and melancholy — are a representation of yourself, your personality and/or current state of mind?
Maybe, yes. But it is very typical of people from Finland to have dark humor, be funny and melancholy, all at the same time. I guess it is just something that organically comes from here.
What was the concept/inspiration for your Fall/Winter 2010 collection, “Helsinki All Night Long”? I know the name is quite self-explanatory, but what was your idea behind it?
It’s a combination of a lot of things. Most importantly, how I see Helsinki. The Bikers, the Goths, stuff from the ‘90s and some futuristic stuff… tragicomic … something like that.
Do you still collaborate with jeweler, Lauri Johansson? Will you be collaborating with anyone else soon?
Lauri is my close friend and I am sure we will collaborate some way still. As for others, hopefully yes.
Any plans of having your own jewelry/accessories/shoe line?
Maybe some shoes and jewelry, but not my own line.
Congratulations on last year’s Lady Gaga feature! How did that happen? Any chance of a repeat? Your designs seem to be the perfect look for her.
Haha. Thank you. I am happy when anybody wears my clothes.
Where can people buy your items?
Good online shops are Fatal (http://www.shopfatal.com)
Welcome Hunters LA (http://www.welcomehuntersla.com)
Wunder (http://www.wundershop.fi)
and Doshaburi (http:www.doshaburi.com)
In Japan, you can check Freestyle (Gunma), Remedy (Niigata), Centie (Hokkaido), Antagonist & Agonist (Kyoto) and Deity’s Watchdog (Nagoya).
In Tokyo, they carry my collections at Blxxkk, Dog and Wall.
What’s next for Daniel Palillo?
No idea. I live day by day.
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To know more, go to http://danielpalillo.blogspot.com.