TOKYO — Subscribing to the same trend websites, look books and color forecasts, it is expected that designers from around the world get into a similar frame of mind each season.
This is also true in Japan, where designers showed youthful softness (as seen at Chanel and Marc Jacobs) as well as rugged casual ensembles (à la Balenciaga).
While the collections of Japan Fashion Week held parallels to the global design scene, Japanese designers made it their own by infusing unexpected elements — like using ropes as scarves at Fur Fur — and contradicting their usual selves.
Loose silhouettes and unisex designs are the common thread among Japanese designers. This time, however, the Spring/Summer 2010 collections showed their general inclination towards a more feminine route.
An abundance of ruffles appeared on every part of a garment and even accessories. Designers like everlasting sprout and Suzuki Takayuki liberally used ruffles on skirts, hemlines and circular collars.
Although young favorite Aguri Sagimori presented a tailored collection, she also included a messenger bag with layers of ruffles.
Old school femininity shone through softly draped maxi dresses by Theatre Products and The Dress & Co. by Hideaki Sakaguchi.
Junya Tashiro and Everlasting Sprout took this a bit further by adding girly accents of eyelet and crochet on headpieces.
On the other end of the spectrum were touches of deconstruction, seen on knee-length sporty shorts at G.V.G.V. and paper bag accents at Tiny Dinosaur and Suzuki Takayuki.
Unfinished hems were a staple at Fur Fur where Aya Furuhashi did a collection of pieced together “retazos.”
Another underlying theme was transparency — shown through a widespread use of see-through fabrics like tulle. Takumi Hatakeyama used it to add volume to pouf skirts while Mintdesigns used a striped version as the main ingredient of their dresses and tunics.
Designer Sara Arai of Araisara used see-through materials as an accent to her clean silhouettes. The prevalence of sheer fabrics — plus the occasional corseted top — is a continuation of the boudoir trend dominant last season.
This year’s Japan Fashion Week proves that while many designers seem to cater to the peculiarities of the domestic market, they are also in tune with global design direction.
As some brands make their move worldwide — G.V.G.V. is now available at Opening Ceremony — it may not be long till the tenants of La Foret make its way globally.
For now, however, the only way to get a hold of this talented bunch is to find your way to Tokyo.