A slash of inspiration

It’s somewhat clichéd, but when a person talks about fashion design school, you can’t help but imagine the style and academic radius of the Atlantic —
Paris, London and New York. Toss in other options — maybe Milan, Madrid or Ant-werp — but I guarantee you’ll never think of this place: Dunedin, New Zealand.

“Much like fashion, New Zealand is about new thinking,” counters Lizanne Cua, a 20-something designer about the land that brought us fashion insider faves Karen Walker and Little Brother. “That country embodies the essence of youth, vitality and exuberance.” For her, New Zealand’s combo of postcard-pretty views, smog-free air, and laidback people was another way of seeing the world. It was, after all, her ticket to a degree in clothing and textile sciences from the University of Otago.

She studied for about a year and a half at the Ateneo before packing her bags for the Other Down Under, a decision, she says, that didn’t exactly sit well with her old-school Chinese dad.

“But he was the one who researched on the place and decided on it. He said it was safe and relatively affordable,” Lizanne offers as a disclaimer. Again, her father wasn’t thrilled at the idea of his eldest child turning into a designer — “Too frou-frou for him” — so she had to sign up for something from the more scientific end of her uni’s course catalogue.

Cut And Sew

No regrets, though. “Clothing and Textile Sciences included the psychology of clothing, textile testing, the science of patternmaking, as well as clothing production studies,” explains the proud grad. “It was a very unique experience since it approached fashion from the technical angle and provided me with a different perspective. All in all, studying in NZ was an amazing experience because it encouraged self-expression.”

That strong foundation — twinned with an intensive fashion course at the Istituto di Moda Burgo in Milan and another NZ stint, this time at the Dunedin Fashion Incubator — opened her eyes to the business of fashion, its buying and branding nuts and bolts. Manila-based for a few years now (“Manila is home and I feel a certain Zen when I’m here”), Lizanne wants to focus on one of her many projects: her upstart label, Sabre.

The idea for Sabre was the result of her entry into Mega Magazine’s Young Designer’s Competition in 2002. “What I thought of was a gleaming silver sword of sorts, cutting through illusion and getting through to the heart of the matter,” Lizanne explains. On another level, the brand’s sharp, daring cuts could also refer to the saber-tooth tiger, symbolizing her credo, “Power Dressing in Style,” for both men and women.

Kiwi Culture Plus Pinoy Pride

Since then, glimpses of Lizanne’s fantasies have occasionally found a home in the pages of other Pinoy glossies. In fact, it was a Metro Him article that led me to track her down to ask about her stuff. “That gray cardigan they featured? It’s unlike the other cardigans they sell in the mall. The sleeves are longer on purpose.” Playing with avant-garde detailing and classic structural influences is a huge part of Lizanne’s aesthetic. “But you need to master something before you can turn it on its head.”

Catering to the sartorial needs of “gentlemen who are comfortable enough to push a few boundaries occasionally” and ladies who are “unafraid to make a statement,” Lizanne put her free-flow approach to good use at the recent “Red Hot from New Zealand,” a fashion show and concert highlighting Kiwi culture. “The New Zealand Embassy got in touch with me and asked if I wanted to participate. Of course I said yes!” She had the nerve-jangling opportunity to whip up something for the ambassador, who thankfully took to her concoction. “It was such a relief when he said, ‘Bill me for the suit!’”

She preferred to focus on range instead of presenting a thematic collection at the showcase. “If women can get away with looking masculine — by wearing menswear-inspired suits, for example — why can’t guys be a bit more experimental without people judging them?” Exploring this duality by decking male models in ruffles, Lizanne’s creative daring is also underscored by a stand-out-in-the-crowd philosophy.

Away From The Mainstream Whirlpool

Influenced by a few Brits and Belgians — from Chalayan and Galliano to Margiela and Demeulemeester — this multitasking designer believes that fashion is about constantly reinventing and expressing one’s self. “It’s about pushing boundaries and exploring new thresholds. Each collection delves into something different — and in the process, I discover something new,” she enthuses.

With her imagination in one fired-up piece, Lizanne is all for integrating fashion, jewelry, shoes and bags to come up with a total look. Now, in one of the busiest periods of her life, her career game plan involves not only Sabre, but a jewelry line, Zoie by Lizanne. One of her pieces, “Ani,” was exhibited in the World Trade Center Manila F.A.M.E. Show as well as the Yuchengo Museum in early 2007. Singapore’s Solitaire magazine likewise hailed it as one of the leading jewelry designs in the Philippines in its latest issue.

Away from the mainstream whirlpool to approach things with the light hand of an outsider, Lizanne is certainly not the first Filipina to study in NZ. She is, however, the first to become a fashion designer after hitting the books there. “I’m in the process of setting up my design studio in the Quezon City area,” she concludes. She’s also on the lookout for stores interested in carrying her made-to-measure clothing and accessory designs. Armed with technical smarts and style savvy, this talented designer — who “can’t sleep thinking of a button” — shouldn’t have any problem pulling that off.

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Contact Lizanne Cua at 0910-6968085 or lizanne.designs@gmail.com for made-to-measure clothing and jewelry. Zoie by Lizanne is available exclusively at all Karat Gold stores (second floor, SM Megamall Bldg. A and second floor Mnain building, SM City North Edsa).