MANILA Philippines – Tod's autumn/winter 2014-15 collection sees the spirit of Italy. The women's collection, called the “Italian Set,” includes the designs for the house by Alessandra Facchineti. On the other hand, the men's collection emanates the spirit of Italy through a fusion of artisanal heritage and new technology. This is a collection for a modern gentleman – a man on the move who needs a wardrobe that is stylish and functional.
Ready-to-wear
The Tod's women's ready-to-wear collection for autumn/winter 2014-15 explores the graphic, feminine possibilities of leather for clothing, working it to a high, waxy shine, almost as though it were lacquered. On other occasions, as when accentuating the pleats of a skirt, it can look as glossy as silk duchesse satin. The aesthetic of Italian Set is based on a combination of leather with jacquard, wool, mink or cashmere to create a timeless, luxurious, sophisticated style. A military theme runs throughout, evident in the Montgomery duffle coats, capes, trench coats, half-belted cabans and uniform-style leather skirt. But the effect is decidedly elegant rather than utilitarian.
Checks are applied to technical fabrics and also appear as jacquard in wool and silk. Checks feature in the stitching, in the mink, and also become openwork– resembling a subtle Madras– on the pony skin overcoat. Carpet-style geometry also features in an important pattern, taking the form of an unusual all-over print on a midnight blue, ice or Bordeaux ground. Lozenge-form patterns suggest optical illusions, decorating bags as well as clothing, creating a virtual jacquard. Micro fur is employed to luxurious effect: elasticized two-tone mink cuffs, a long, thin fur scarf and a removable mink neck on a two-tone turtleneck.
Bags
The bags in this season’s collection includes carpet-style geometric patterns feature on the D-Cube models – lozenge-form designs suggesting optical illusions – while color-block fur panels adorn the small D-Cube. The Tod’s Sellas Bag and D-Cube come in Carpet Couture form: designed in carpet fabric, which shows off the craftsmanship of maxi finishes. The D-Cube is also available in the D-Cube Stories collection, a range of bags featuring the leather lozenge-jacquard, with check-pattern saddlery inlays and two-tone mink, thus interweaving many of the key elements of the season. While the striking Bauletto Military has a waxed finish, a saddle patch and stripes.
Shoes
The new Tod’s shoe collection for women places an emphasis on simplicity. The Mocassino is flat but ultra-feminine, with a new metal buckle.
The New Boot apparently features a gaiter, as in a technical riding boot, but is in fact made from one piece of leather – a double layer of leather cut on the front by the line of the zip. This also comes as an ankle boot.
Alessandra brings her love of dancing to the metropolitan atmosphere of the Ballerina Margot. It’s the light of the metal Gommini studs that marks time for the unmistakable Tod’s Ballerina.
The Gommino Spilla features a classic tailoring object. Transformed into an unexpected contemporary fastening, it becomes an unusual accessory that fits in just over the leather tassels: it can be removed and replaced, to personalize the iconic Gommino, as mood dictates.
Men's Wear
The clothing in the collection reflects the Tod's tradition of quality, elegance and refined modernity.
A tweed suit teamed with suede shoes makes a perfect outfit for a day of travel.
A fine, soft, high-quality leather jacket, made with artisanal care, is a useful staple. A velvet blazer, worn over a turtleneck and with dark suede trousers, works for the evening, whatever the occasion, whatever the continent.
The Passport line of jackets, in particular, has been created with the modern urban traveller in mind. Each jacket is constructed using the finest Tod’s leathers: calf, velvet suede processed with expertise that has been passed down from generation to generation. The Border jacket features an innovative protective fabric as sturdy as oilcloth, created, remarkably, by pairing two soft materials: wool flannel and brushed cotton.
In the Philippines, Tod’s is exclusively distributed by Stores Specialists, Inc. (SSI) - a member of The SSI Group - and is available at Greenbelt 4, Ayala Center Makati and Rustan’s Tower, Shangri-La Plaza Mall.
Photos by AJ BOLANDO/PHILSTAR.COM