Oriang: Redesigning Filipino dishes

MANILA, Philippines - From its appetizers to desserts, a new dining destination at the Bonifacio Global City exhibits a fine rediscovery in Filipino flavors and dishes by combining tasty details and gastronomic artistry with affordability.

Located in the busy Fiesta Market foodie haven outside Market! Market! mall at the Bonifacio Global City, Oriang is the latest venture of restaurateurs Vic and Freddie Wenceslao, who earlier opened a more upscale Cafe de Bonifacio at the Podium in Ortigas.

"Oriang is a lower priced--not lower end--version of Cafe de Bonifacio," Vic explained, adding that the place is named after revered Filipino hero Andres Bonifacio's wife Gregoria de Jesus, whose nickname was Oriang.

The Wenceslao brothers, who also own most of Figaro Coffee's franchises at the BGC, tapped executive chef John Cu-Unjieng to put together and experiment on a casual dining menu of classic native dishes following the restaurant's Philippine Revolution theme.

This collaboration resulted in an extensive selection of meals and snacks that would favor all types of diners. Perhaps the variety is reflective of the Wenceslaos' preferences--with Vic having a predominantly vegetable-and-fish diet and the younger Freddie calling himself a "meat lover."

Oriang's main men (from left) Chef John Cu-Unjieng, owners/siblings Vic and Freddie Wenceslao and Vic's son Jael Wenceslao.

"We wanted to step up the level of Filipino casual dining which is comparable to upscale restaurants but that which our guests can enjoy at affordable costs," as Chef John said.

Once a guest is presented with the menu, a complimentary snack of fried hofan (noodles) with cilantro pesto is served. While it could have been a bit tastier, the gesture is nonetheless easy to appreciate.

Diners would then be torn choosing from an array of long-time favorites, all having a signature "spin" to them--a presentation that goes beyond effect or appearance, but plays along to bring together flavors and textures even the most particular of customers can readily love.

These are some of the offerings:

Appetizers. The flavorful, shrimps in Gambas al Ajillio (P275) are of a generous size and their lumpiang hubad (P135) is presented in a surprising way that it's almost unrecognizable. Such entrées alone can already make a light, satisfying lunch (or brunch).

Main dishes. The pork slices in its binagoongang bagnet (P185) were mostly fatty, but the sauce is too enjoyable that you would not mind the extra calories, while the addicting chicken binakol (P265) can be your side dish or soup, but good enough to be taken as a single viand.

The butterfly tilapia in tamarind sauce (P265) and crispy hito (P265) are Wenceslaos' favorites and are preferred by many guests. Balance these well-presented and tasty fish servings with the Original Oriang Orange Chicken (P235) that kids would like or Embotido con Ampalaya (p185) which is of two dishes in one.

Rice. Oriang has three specialty rice recipes that should not be missed. You can take either the Oriang Super Fried Rice (in crab fat, P215), Pinakbet rice (P195) or Tuyo fried rice (P155) on each of your visits as all are gratifying that you would not mind taking them without viand to match. Characteristically, the rice dishes tend to be a bit oily so take them in moderation.

Salads. A food experts says that the overall quality of a restaurant can be judged from its salad as it is prepared without much frills or show. Oriang's mix (P185) of squid, turnips and other vegetables is then a testament to its earnestness in making the overall dining experience one-of-a-kind.

Oriang's Turon de Gregoria. Photo by SanDMan.

Desserts. To expect delectable desserts on top of such well-prepared, heavyweight dishes is somehow too much to ask. But Oriang is too dedicated to food to just serve typical endings to a meal. Instead, Chef John and the Wenceslaos dare customers to stop by the venue just for dessert.

Try the layered, cup-like Turon de Gregoria (P85) with ice cream and the Mango Latik (P85) of fried roti and coconut sauce and you would want to dine again there tomorrow. (P.S. The brewed coffee is good, too!)

"What sets Oriang apart from other Pinoy-themed restaurants is how we put a fresh spin on what we serve," Chef John said. True enough, the resto is just among the many in the area--most of which offer cheaper Filipino lutong bahay fares--but the quality of its food and the youthful, patriotic ambience make it an ideal place for after-office gatherings over dinner without having to strain budgets.