Collagen banking beauty trend: Dermatologist weighs pros, cons

One of doctor Chesca Sy-Alvarado's slide presentations about aging

MANILA, Philippines — In the first two decades of life, people produce more collagen, which “gives structure, strength and elasticity to our external appearance,” said dermatologist and TikTok sensation, doctor Chesca Sy-Alvarado at a recent Makati City talk.

But by the mid-20s, collagen production starts to decline, prompting the new generation to jump into a new craze: Collagen banking. 

On social media platforms like TikTok, Dr. Sy-Alvarado noticed how many people follow cosmetic procedures and products with potent ingredients just to store collagen reserves. But how effective are these?

“What kind of collagen should I take? How much of that collagen? Well, yeah, there are actually conflicting use by experts,” she noted.

“So, the exact mechanism of action of oral collagen is not yet been established. So in short, there are a few changes that you might see (from oral collagen). For example, if you've tried it, the changes that you might see might not be visible or noticeable to other people. So there's a difference (depending on) who's doing the evaluation. So yeah, the changes might not be universally visible… Like your friend can see it, but your family members, your partner might not… You have to go to the lab to quantify (the changes through) spectral imaging.”

For Alvarado, collagen supplements should undergo regulatory testing to be proven effective. Although their effectiveness have not been established, she, however, did not discourage their use: “It wouldn't hurt to try” as long as it comes “from a reputable source.”

“So the best way to make collagen in the skin, in terms of skincare ingredients, would be to have products or ingredients that support new collagen for lesion like Protinol and to also help prevent loss of collagen. So that's why we have antioxidants,” she said.

Cesar Tadashi, Executive Director for Global Research and Development for beauty brand Avon, expressed his excitement over the latest addition to the brand’s Anew skincare range, the Skin Renewal Power Cream, with the brand’s exclusive Protinol technology and 10 times Protinol ”to help restore years of lost collagen in just seven days.” 

“The result is visibly stronger, healthier-feeling skin and an instantly brightened, blurred eye area,” he affirmed in a statement.

“Basically, we are becoming more educated that at some point, the collagen starts to plummet,” Dr. Alvarado said. “Now, you start banking your collagen prior to that decline… But essentially, what (collagen banking) says is that it's a holistic regimen because it has to be a whole lifestyle, not just on topical creams, not just in clinic procedures, but also how you eat, how you sleep, things like that. So altogether with your products and with your lifestyle, (they have) to all go together.”

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