European finds for men
When I was 17, a well-traveled yet very grounded and down-to-earth lady, the late Fe Ayala, told me, “When you travel, shop for something the place is well-know for. Buy perfume from France, shoes and rosaries from Italy, chocolates and watches from Switzerland, leather goods from Spain.” Like many things she taught me, I have kept her words in mind.
While traveling around Europe, I kept my eyes, ears and nose open for men’s stuff that might be of interest to readers who may, sooner or later, visit the continent in search of things to bring home.
I must have gone in and out and back in again to dozens of shops to browse and interview sales staff and random customers who were willing to give me the time of day on their most salable or most coveted items. I spoke at length to friends who live on the continent to catch the pulse of male European consumers. I scouted around for eye-catching merchandise and handled them for a stealth test drive, much to the annoyance of snooty shopkeepers.
Otherwise, I saw fine articles of clothing on friends and strangers, the latter of which I literally stopped on the streets for questioning. Because of my curiosity about men’s fragrance, I made it a point to ask perfume emporium sales staff about best sellers and flagged down passersby after having had a whiff of their enticing scent.
What I learned from this expedition is that the best merchandise — that which caught my fancy, anyway — was not from name brand giants with million-euro advertising campaigns that everybody knows about, but from low-key manufacturers who have been in the business for ages. In this case, longevity has really been determined by track record. Quality products thrive in the market no matter the economic atmosphere and stiff competition.
I found a cubbyhole of a necktie shop in Florence, Italy, right across the Palazzo Medici. AteSeta is a specialty men’s dress shirt and tie shop that has only a handful of branches across Italy and very few scattered throughout European. Their dress shirts are heaven to the touch and although I am unable to attest to the fit because they don’t make shirts for ladies, it looked impeccable on the shopkeeper. The pièce de résistance of this quaint store is their tie line. They have all sorts of ties in a carnival of colors and patterns but the lust objects are their one-of-a-kind ties. Yes, only one piece per hand-woven pattern — most unique in the entire world. The shopkeeper pointed to photos of former President Bill Clinton and former Beatle Paul McCartney, picking up ties from their stores. If you are a regular suit-and-tie kind of guy with a safe selection of big brand-name items in your wardrobe and want that adrenalin shot to perk it up, come to this place and be a fashion renegade.
Another shirt shop that grabbed my attention is 7 Camicie, an Italian chain of mid-priced men’s shirts. I bought a couple of their shirts for pasalubong and the reviews are unanimous — perfection in terms of fit and edgy in terms of style. I hung around that shop long enough to observe men going into fitting rooms looking like rumpled ragamuffins and emerging like billionaires, all because of a shirt. The fit is flawless; the collar and cuffs hug the neck and the wrists immaculately without the discomfort of overly stiff stays and boards. Right now their bestsellers du jour are shirts with contrasting color buttonholes (tangerine shirt with navy buttonhole embroidery or pink shirt with green buttonholes). These items are flying off their shelves.
I have seen one too many shoe stores in my life and yet I keep coming back to my all-time favorite shoe store for men: Fratelli Rossetti or Rossetti Brothers. Italians Renzo and Renat Rossetti opened shop in 1953 and because of the quality and craftsmanship they continue to uphold, their shoes have remained market favorites. Most major European cities have a branch. I have never met a Fratelli Rossetti shoe I didn’t like.
Speaking of socks, Marcoloiani socks of Italy are unparalleled. Guiseppe Gatti opened this sock workshop in Milan in 1952. He has since passed the business down to his son and daughter. They continue to manufacture their socks in Milan from the finest fibers. Their collections for both men and women are an explosion of happy colors with the basics such as black, navy, white and brown as staples. Once you try them you won’t want to have any other pair on your feet. If the price were prohibitive then any Marks and Spencer pair would do your feet justice. Marks and Spencer is readily available here courtesy of SSI.
In terms of underwear, Zimmerli of Switzerland is king. Since 1871, Zimmerli of Switzerland has been creating Swiss underwear of the highest caliber and today is the only company continuing to produce in Switzerland. While most have outsourced production to other countries for cost-effective measures, Zimmerli only entrusts their production line to their own workforce bound by age-load traditions of weaving and looming the best Swiss cotton, silk, cashmere and cashmere-wool blends and turning them into underwear with the most luxurious feel and the longest-lasting life span. They are quite pricy but the cliché “You get what you pay for” more than justifies the price points. For a more affordable line, try the Gunze brand of underwear from Japan. They are not quite the same but are a very close second.
London has as much to offer in menswear. One of the standouts in this city is the John Lobb shoe. John Lobb has been making the finest shoes and boots for gentlemen since 1866 in London and 1902 in Paris. Hermes has since bought it but it continues with its traditional art of bench-made shoes. Its world-renowned bespoke service remains the heartbeat of the company. The process is highly personal: they first make a mold of your feet and then fashion the shoes by hand from there. One pair of John Lobbs is all you need in your lifetime as they retain their fit and durability forever with minimal reconditioning or the rare resoling necessary. A pair will set you back 800 euros at least but one pair is all you’ll ever need. The most famous fan of John Lobb shoes is none other than 007 himself — Mr. James Bond — and they are as indestructible as he is.
One English clothing line that struck me is this newbie, Ted Baker, not so much because of the ladies’ line but the men’s ties. Ray Kelvin in Glasgow, Scotland started Ted Baker in 1988, so it is relatively new. It is known for applying twists to its products, and has become a UK designer label through word of mouth rather than advertising. Their ties are not your standard stuffed-shirt pairings. If you are the pinstriped suit advocate, this is not for you. But if you are of the rock star mind and mold, you definitely want one. Ted Baker London ties are “out there” in terms of colors and patterns. They pop out and grab you. If you want to be the center of attention, this is a must-have.
More on the Brits: if you are a trouser fiend, you must get a pair of Joseph trousers. In 1972, Joseph Ettedgui, a former hairdresser of French Moroccan decent, displayed his fashion line in his salon. As they say, the rest is history. The Joseph style is European minimalist and I find the trousers for both and ladies as the jewel in the Joseph line. The second-skin fit, the impeccable tailoring and the flawless fall all speak of excellence. I picked up my first pair in 1987 and I still wear them.
If you happen to be in Barcelona, pop into the Macson shop. Founded in 1942 with the intention of producing top-quality shirts, it has endured because it has fulfilled its mission. The company now makes a million shirts a year and the quality remains consistent. Macson shirts are the favored workday shirts for Spanish gentlemen. Macson shirts are wash-and-wear so they are the daily workhorses of the Spanish workingman’s wardrobe.
If perfume is your concern, Creed’s Vetiver is reportedly still a favorite among European men, according to sales staff on the floor of perfume emporiums in France, Italy, and the UK at least. Second comes Guerlain’s Imperiale. The more price-conscious men reportedly opt for the unisex 4711 eau de cologne, which originated in Germany at the outset of the 18th century. It has since passed hands from Wella International to Procter and Gamble at present. It has had a long history but the refreshing scent remains the same.
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Thank you for your letters. You may reach me at cecilelilles@yahoo.com.
