Food that makes you feel like dancing
The Bistro Group must be having runaway success with its Spanish restaurants Las Flores, Rambla, Tomatito and BCN by Las Flores, because last Friday they opened another one: Rumba, a Spanish-Mediterranean concept at The Shops at Ayala Triangle Gardens in Makati.
“Get ready to make your taste buds dance,” reads the press-kit copy. “Taking inspiration from the term ‘rumba,’ which was introduced in Spain in the early 20th century as rumba flamenco, the restaurant’s dishes flirt, tease and sway on the palate.”
As a flamenco dancer myself I can attest that rumba is indeed a happy, flirtatious dance done to a catchy, four-count beat. But did Rumba’s food make me feel like dancing? Read on to find out.
The extensive menu is comprised of Spanish dishes infused with Mediterranean flavors from Italy, Greece and France. For example, I started with Sopa Bullabesa, the seafood soup known as bouillabaisse in France.
“Since I am Spanish, the biggest influence is Spain,” notes chef Alfredo Rodriguez, a native of Madrid who made the Philippines his home eight years ago. The 40-year-old loves that Spain and the Philippines share many similarities in culture, language, and cuisine.
Rodriguez is the head chef of Bistronomia, managing the aforementioned concepts Las Flores Rambla, Tomatito, BCN by Las Flores and now Rumba. “I chose to live in Asia because I wanted to learn more,” he says. “It was already quite boring in Spain.”
Rumba focuses on cooking over charcoal, a method that’s become quite trendy lately because it infuses more flavor and aroma into food than cooking over gas. Rodriguez cooks his paella in a cast-iron casserole placed inside a Mibrasa charcoal oven using 100% charcoal imported from Spain, and not only does it make some stellar tutong, it’s also smokier and richer, thanks to that fancy charcoal.
“We don't call our charcoal rice ‘paella’ because we don't use a paellera,” the chef points out. “Ninety percent of our dishes are cooked in the said oven, including French-style free-range chicken, lamb chops, duck confit, octopus, shrimp, cheeses and cochinillo (suckling pig).
My charcoal-grilled dish was the flavorful Calamar, a large local squid (lumot) served over French beans, cherry tomatoes and onion puree.
To start a meal that will make you feel like dancing, I recommend getting a bebida like the Pepino Limon, a mocktail with fresh cucumber, lemon juice, sugar syrup and soda water; and the Tataki De Atun, slices of lightly seared tuna served with an avocado emulsion and aji Amarillo mayo.
Another must-try is Salmon Ahumado, an air baguette shaped like a croissant filled with honey-truffle sour cream, wrapped with smoked salmon and topped by a dollop of caviar — unique and delicious.
Rumba serves family-style, with dishes meant to be shared by two to four people. You have to share the Camembert, a whole wheel of the cheese melted in the oven that spreads like velvet on Melba toast — sheer heaven for cheese lovers.
The piece de resistance was the charcoal rice (Arroces al Carbon), which is served with some tableside drama. The server brings the cast-iron casserole to your table on a wooden tray before scooping your toppings of choice over the hot rice. I had the Del Señorito with shrimp, squid, mussels and clams al ajillo, though I’d love to come back for the Bogavante, which highlights Canadian lobster. Other variants feature crispy pork belly, chicken and scallops, and Butifarra sausage and pork ribs.
My sweet ending was the Tarta Fina de Manzana, finely sliced green apples in puff pastry with a truly excellent vanilla ice cream.
I have to mention Rumba’s interiors as well, which are, quite frankly, stunning. The ambiance of the restaurant was supposedly designed to match the “rhythm” of the dishes, with an eclectic patchwork of textures that somehow achieve visual harmony, from the floor tiles to the riveted wood ceiling. Spanish manton shawls and white floral blooms adorn the walls, while wicker furniture accents and colors carry the characteristics of the Mediterranean landscape.
The open kitchen where you can see chef Rodriguez working the grill is another point of interest, providing a connection between the guests and the chefs.
For Makati’s lunch and brunch crowd Rumba serves Prime Lunch Sets from Monday to Sunday that include two dishes for one fixed price (P695): Pescado — hummus with nachos and grilled salmon with vegetables; Pollo — Mediterranean Green Salad and Gyros de Pollo; and Pasta — grilled vegetables with Vongole pasta.
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So, did Rumba make me feel like dancing? Considering it’s a feast for all the senses, it did. Even if I was stuffed to the gills, I managed to do a little rumba step out the door.
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Rumba is located at The Shops at Ayala Triangle (entrance is along Makati Avenue). To inquire, call 0915-856-4264. Follow them at “Rumba” on Facebook and @rumba_ph on Instagram.
Follow the author at IG @theresejamoragarceau.
