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Food and Leisure

Bang Bang Pie, Fat Rice & other Chicago faves

THE BACONMAN COMETH - Sharwin Tee - The Philippine Star
Bang Bang Pie, Fat Rice & other Chicago faves
The Cherry Pie from Bang Bang Pie is a must-order.

Every year since 2016, I’ve been flying to Chicago to participate in the Kultura Festival produced by Filipino Kitchen. While that is a reward in itself, I also get to do my favorite thing, which is to eat around. In Chicago, that means great food at every meal of the day.

Breakfast at Bang Bang Pie

Right near the Airbnb we were staying at is a small, hip place called Bang Bang Pie. I wasn’t sure why it was named that, but I wouldn’t be surprised if it were named so because their food is dynamite. The place opens at 9 a.m. daily, but there’s a line out the door as early as 8:30 a.m.! If there is ever a universal sign for a place that serves great food, it’s a line before the place even opens.

First on the agenda must be their biscuits. It is a minor frustration for me that it is extremely difficult to find well-made American biscuits here in Manila, and in Bang Bang Pie, it is a must-order. The biscuits are perfectly salted with a slight crunch on the top and bottom, and the insides are lovingly tender and fluffy. They are definitely great by themselves or with some jam and butter, but I went all-in and had them with egg and sausage gravy. The baked egg was perfectly done, with the white soft but fully cooked and the yolk appropriately runny. The sausage gravy was rich, creamy and dotted with salty and spicy bits of breakfast sausage. When you get the runny yolk, the gravy and the crisp biscuit together in a bite, you are instantly transported to a good place where the rest of your day is sure to be awesome.

While that is enough to be regarded as the breakfast of champions, save room for their pie. They have a host of different flavors, but I knew I had to get their cherry pie. The tart cherry filling contrasted well with the slightly sweet crumble on top and the thin bottom crust was nicely done as well. If I made pies this good, I would never sell them. I would just eat them all by myself. 

Brunch at Café Marie Jeanne

Brunch at Cafe Marie Jeanne is well executed.

The best thing about brunch is you get to eat breakfast food and you don’t necessarily have to wake up early. Early on, I learned that Chicago takes its brunch very seriously and this place fits the bill. On the menu are a lot of breakfast fare, French brasserie classics and pastries. I opted for classic and simple flavors. On my plate were soft scrambled eggs, salmon gravlax and sautéed mushrooms. Everything was delicious.

The eggs were cooked runny, meaning they were moist, warmed through and very creamy. I added a touch of hot sauce for spice, and they were perfect. It is my sincere hope that more people enjoy scrambled eggs like this: runny, soft and spicy. Meanwhile, the gravlax was at the perfect salt level and paired with crème fraiche and dill, a nice complement to the eggs. The mushrooms may be labeled as a side, but they were certainly stars — button mushrooms sautéed for just a few minutes and then seasoned at the very end with balsamic, they are salty and slightly sour and very competently cooked.

Lunch at Fat Rice

I’ve eaten at Fat Rice every time I visit Chicago and why not? There’s a reason behind the success of owners Adrienne Lo and Abe Conlon, who just won a James Beard Award. As the name suggests, make sure to get their specialty, which is rice. Order the Fat Rice, which is Macanese rice with lots of toppings, a la paella. This time, it was the Spam Fried Rice, which is cooked with the proper wok hei (the smoky flavor distinct in Chinese cuisine).

I also made sure to check out one of the lunch specials, which was the Octopus with Sambal, tentacles cooked perfectly tender and then flavored with a sour and spicy chili sauce made in house. To finish the meal, I ordered the Pork and Ginger Dumplings, making sure to order the extra house XO sauce, which, in my opinion, is the highlight of the dish.

Afternoon snack at Portillos

The beef sandwich at Portillo’s is a delicious monster.

Ok, I feel like I should write a disclaimer and say the size of the meals here would probably be more of a full meal than a snack. Other than that, though, this Chicago classic is a must-visit. I got the lowdown from a chef friend on what to order and it’s the Italian beef, dipped, with sweet and spicy pickles. That’s all you have to say and you will get the iconic Chicago sandwich in a matter of minutes.

One bite and I understand why this place has withstood the test of time. The beef, sliced thin, is the salty protein counterbalanced by the sour giardiniera (pickled vegetables) and then adding the sweet-and-sour pickles gives the sandwich a perfect balance of four flavors. Ordering the sandwich dipped means the entire sandwich is dunked in the beef jus, giving your bread all the meaty goodness while keeping the bread moist. My pro tip is to make sure to get lots of table napkins to enjoy this messy, absolutely tasty hulk of a sandwich. Oh, it probably helps not to wear a white shirt, too.

Dinner at Honey Butter Fried chicken

Honey Butter Fried Chicken is one of my Chicago favorites.

Another Chicago favorite of mine, I made sure to visit (not once but twice) this time around. I got two pieces of fried chicken, fried crisp with a not-too-thick dredge of nicely seasoned flour. Then I slather a thick layer of the sweet honey butter all over the chicken. No need for gravy here! Fried chicken sides are equally important and as much as their Mac and Cheese is heaven, I opted for lighter alternatives this time. The Kale Slaw is crisp and flavorful without being overdressed and their house-made Cam’s Kimchi is appropriately sour and spicy.

Meanwhile, the staff was friendly enough (and probably because they know I eat there often) to send over one of their specials, which is a monster of a delicious dish. Fluffy mashed potatoes, topped with kimchi and huge chunks of their fried chicken, and then finished with Sriracha mayo and spring onions, it is everything you will ever want if you’re drunk late at night. Actually, you’ll want it even if you aren’t drunk. It’s that good.

*   *   *

Sharwin’s new book So, You Want to be a Chef? is now available in bookstores. Follow Sharwin’s food adventures on Instagram @chefsharwin and for questions, reactions, recipe and column suggestions, you can contact him on www.sharwintee.com.

BANG BANG PIE

CAFé MARIE JEANNE

FAT RICE

HONEY BUTTER FRIED CHICKEN

KULTURA FESTIVAL

PORTILLOS

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