Seeing (Michelin) stars in Singapore
Waku Ghin’s Tetsuya Wakuda receives his two Michelin stars from Michael Ellis, international director, Michelin guides.
When Michelin guides international director Michael Ellis and his team started working on the Michelin guide Singapore project a few years back, they knew that they would be able to come up with a great guide. What they were unprepared for was the depth and diversity of the dining scene in an island known as a little red dot on the world map.
“We were just so star struck with what we found, from fine-dining to well-loved hawker fare,” Ellis enthuses. “And the fact that two hawker stands — the Hill Street Tai Hwa Pork Noodle and Liao Fan Hong Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice & Noodle — received Michelin stars last year was just incredible.”
The inaugural launch of Michelin guide Singapore in 2016 brings the country’s gastronomic scene to the world, thereby attracting tourists and locals alike.
Well, it’s that time of year again when revered gourmet figures, ardent gastronomes, and food critics gather for one night of glitz, glamour, and culinary honor. Last June 29, Ellis presented the second set of Michelin-starred restaurants in the Lion City at The Fullerton Hotel, Singapore.
The awarding ceremony kicked off with a rousing laser and percussion performance by Urban Drum Crew.
About 500 guests attended the formal event, shelling out $595/person not only to find out first who made it to the prestigious little red book, but also to get up close and personal with the rock-star chefs they idolize and probably stalk on IG.
“Hawker Chan” chef Chan Hon Meng got roaring applause when he was called onstage to receive his award; Tetsuya Wakuda was ecstatic when Waku Ghin was bumped up to two stars; while wheelchair-bound chef Haikal Johari of Alma — who was badly injured in a road accident in Thailand in 2015 — stole the spotlight when he got up and walked onstage to receive the restaurant’s one-Michelin-star award.
Joel Robuchon remains undisputed — the only three-Michelin-star restaurant in Singapore.
Eleven new restaurants — Braci, Cheek by Jowl, Chef Kang’s, Garibaldi, Iggy’s, Imperial Treasure Fine Teochew Cuisine, Labyrinth, Meta Restaurant, Saint Pierre, Summer Palace and Whitegrass — were each given one star.
Hawker stalls Hill Street Tai Hwa Pork Noodle and Liao Fan Hong Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice & Noodle retained their one-star rating, while Forest and Terra Tokyo-Italian were bumped off the list.
While the chefs savored their victories, we enjoyed the five-course wine-pairing dinner prepared by chef Leong Chee Yeng of Jade, Singapore; chef Sandro Falbo of The Fullerton Hotel and The Fullerton Bay Hotel, Singapore; chef Tam Kwok Fung of Jade Dragon, Macau; chef Jason Tan of Corner House, Singapore; chef Curtis Duffy of Grace, Chicago; and chef Cheung Siu Kong of Summer Pavilion, Singapore.
So much skill, love, and passion went into each plate. The Cuttlefish Cheong Fun by chef Sandro Falbo was pleasing to the eye and the palate.
Chef Jason Tan’s Smoked Patagonian Toothfish with celeriac remoulade topped with Manjimup black truffle is a classic French dish with a twist. The roasted celeriac cubes (with a nice nutty flavor) and French bacon gave the silky fish a bit of a kick. The black truffle made it irresistible. The dish went well with a glass of Nautilus Sauvignon Blanc 2016.
And then a gorgeous plate of beef was placed in front of me. Each layer had intense marbling — enough to whet any carnivore’s appetite. Although the presentation was stunning, chef Curtis Duffy’s Miyazaki Beef proved too fancy for my taste buds. I’d go for chef Kang’s crispy prawn paste pork belly anytime!
And, as I was having dessert, I realized that these dishes, coupled with Lah-lah land’s delicious local fare, proved beyond a doubt that Singapore rightfully deserves its position as an international dining destination.
* * *
For the complete list of the Michelin guide Singapore 2017, visit https://guide.michelin.sg.
