Simple food fit for the People’s Pope
What will His Holiness Pope Francis be feasting on when he visits the Philippines January 15-19?
“Feast” is a word you probably won’t find in the culinary vocabulary of the man who brought humility and humanity to the papacy, also known as Jorge Mario Bergoglio of Buenos Aires, Argentina, whose utterly Spartan lifestyle extends to his austere meals. The eldest of five children born to Italian immigrants, Jorge grew up on Bagna Cauda, classical farmer’s fare from the Piedmont region north of Italy, which consists of roasted vegetables and onions dipped into a piping-hot broth made of garlic and olive oil, and served in a terra-cotta bowl kept nice and warm by a candle underneath. But whatever simple fare was served on the Bergoglio table, it was surely shared with a lot of love.
If his lifestyle changed when he became archbishop of Buenos Aires, it is that it became even simpler. He shunned eating in restaurants, preferring to cook his own meals and eat by himself in his humble apartment. A typical meal would consist of baked skinless chicken, salad, fruit, and a glass of simple wine (but of course, ’coz he’s Italian!). He took public transport to and from work like an ordinary employee, enjoyed mingling with people, loved the opera, and loved to dance the tango! See, he was (and still is) a regular guy, like you and me.
A Vatican cookbook by 24-year-old chef David Geisser from the Vatican’s elite Swiss Guards (yes, they don’t only protect the Pope, they also cook) reveals Pope Francis’s favorite dishes. Of course, as a true-blue Argentinian, Jorge loves spicy empanadas, popular street food in South America made of crescent-shaped pastry stuffed with various fillings (meat, seafood, fruit or virtually anything you want to fill it up with) and baked or fried. Occasionally, he’d enjoy a colita de cuadril (roast sirloin, a leaner cut of beef that’s tender and full of flavor). Known for his sweet tooth, he would give in to the temptation of dulce de leche, Argentina’s legendary dessert made of sticky, sweet, caramelized milk and sugar sauce — drizzle it over ice cream or Starbucks Frappuccino or slather it on toast or a waffle or, better yet, eat it straight from the jar. Mamma mia! Super yummy! When he drinks, he’d probably have a Malbec, a full-bodied red wine from Argentina.
For the faithful legions of coffee drinkers out there, yes, Pope Francis loves a good espresso, as almost everyone living in Italy does. Make that a ristretto, a short shot of espresso (the first half of a full-length extraction, which means it’s more concentrated, less bitter, and a more tame espresso). So it won’t really give the Pope insomnia (he’s asleep by 10 p.m. and is up by 4 a.m.).
Needless to say, when Jorge Mario Bergoglio was elected the 266th head of the Roman Catholic Church, he brought a refreshing change to the hallowed halls of the Vatican. After making his appearance before a massive crowd at St. Peter’s Square as the new pope, he ate dinner with the College of Cardinals, where he was served a pasta dish that seemed extravagant by the Pope’s humble standards. The story goes that when the cardinals offered a toast to the new prince of the church, Pope Francis looked at the opulent food and responded with another toast, saying, “May God forgive you.” Known for his sense of humor, Pope Francis was probably not joking when he said that.
Pope Francis took the name of St. Francis of Assisi, who abandoned a life of luxury to spread Christianity. As a devotee of St. Francis, the first Jesuit pope, Pope Francis has always lived by the simple Jesuit rule: to fill up on bread to avoid the “disorder that comes from being tempted by other foods.” So expect a lot of bread on the papal table.
For Pope Francis, wasting food is a crime — it’s like stealing from the poor. He talks of the scandal of starvation, of one human family, and food for all.
What would you feed the Holy Father when he comes knocking on your door? A foodie friend says in jest that we should welcome the Pope with a lot of Pope corn, Pope-sicles, Pope tarts, Pope-y seed rolls with Papa ketchup!
If she would have the honor and privilege to cook for the Pope, chef Jessie Sincioco would prepare this simple dish: Chicken Supreme Chimichurri with Kesong Puti Gratin (served with herbed couscous). “The Pope loves skinless chicken,” says chef Jessie, “so I’m serving him something that would remind him of home (chimichurri is an Argentinian green sauce for grilled meat) and something that’s native to the Philippines (kesong puti from carabao’s milk). And because he loves sweets, I will make him an ube (local yam) special dessert.”
She adds, “The Pope is a big salad eater so, on the side, I have prepared a salad with a local twist, made of our very own alugbati (a lowly leafy plant) in tamarind vinaigrette.”
Welcome to our humble Filipino kitchen, Pope Francis!
