Summer heat, Asian eats

These past few weeks have seen me throw all semblance of poise and decorum out the window. The heat has become so unbearable, especially for my 35-weeks-pregnant self, that my latest modus operandi has been to lie on my bed dressed in my husband’s boxer shorts paired with a sando pulled up, exposing my belly, reminiscent of those jeepney drivers and carpenters taking a break roadside, with the aircon full blast and fanning myself with a paypay. I had never understood this practice of exposing their stomachs until now. It’s, in fact, such a fabulous idea.

I had also thought that pregnancy would bring me an insatiable hunger. That I would go crazy stuffing my face with all my favorite food, but in fact these dizzyingly hot summer months have had me shunning things that are too rich or saucy or soupy. When your skin is perpetually moist from the large beads of sweat rolling down your forehead, and even cold showers are warm because the pipes are hot, a big hearty bowl of stew is just not what you are looking for.

The nice thing about being pregnant is people always want to feed you, and the other day, a good friend of mine in the industry called me up just for that purpose. Chef Him Uy de Baron of Nomama Artisanal Ramen invited me over to try a few new dishes he’s cooked up. Truth be told, I was in no mood for a big bowl of soupy ramen, but thankfully, neither was he! “These dishes are bright and fresh,” he shares. “We’re a ramen restaurant and I know that it’s really not the first thought that comes to mind for summer!”

The traditional Asian kitchen with all its spices, curries and sauces can be a bit heavy for this intense heat, but there are definitely ways to incorporate our much-loved Asian flavors into a menu that’s summery and refreshing. Taking cues from cuisines that are traditionally more apt for the sunny months, like Mediterranean or Southern, plus focusing on lighter and brighter flavors and bringing in the influence of the sea, makes for an interesting lineup of new dishes.

He started me off with some edamame hummus, which I devoured in seconds, nice and citrusy plus packed with good protein. Then brought out a couple of crab sliders. One was made with blue swimmer crabmeat and avocado, and the other soft-shell crab with a pickled watermelon salsa. I loved both and happily chowed down on the sliders in their entirety, but I have to say the crisp soft-shell crab with the pickled watermelon and kimchi mayo was genius. First off it was a crisp “real” soft-shell crab, not those small crablets that are fried to death. The inside had that fluffy white meat. And while I love the idea of watermelon in savory food, I often don’t like it in practice because its sweetness can be too overpowering. In this sandwich it was pickled, so it was tart and a little savory, offsetting the richness of the fried crab and the spice of the kimchi mayo.

Crab is definitely one of those ingredients that scream “summer” for me. It reminds me of the seaside, a nice crab and avocado salad, or crab cakes with remoulade, relished on the terrace on a cliff off the coast of some stunning Mediterranean fishing port: warm sun, cool breeze and an even cooler glass of crisp rosé. Crab can be tricky, though, because if the quality is not there, the smell can be downright unpleasant. The crab used in these dishes are not only a good-quality local product but sustainable as well.

“I found this canned blue swimmer crab product from Bacolod at a trade fair that was destined mostly for export,” chef Him explains. “The quality is always there and they have a sustainable practice where they take a break from harvesting them so they can recover. They also employ the handicapped in the process to give back to the local community.”

If you’re not one for sliders you could try the fresh crab roll tossed with miso butter, corn and Japanese vinaigrette — rolled like a temaki but taking a nod from the Louisiana south with this fun combination of crab and corn — briny and sweet.

Other interesting menu items? A crisp little ball of fried sushi rice stuffed with braised pork. These bite-sized morsels are coated in a tangy sauce and served with a sambal aioli and remind me of an Asian arancini — an Italian risotto ball. Perfect for those looking for a little signature richness, the full flavors of a stew with rice but not wanting that heavy feeling. Yes, you can have your braise and eat it too.

What about ramen? We are in a ramen restaurant after all! “I was looking for ways to serve ramen without the soup, so we came up with a few mezeme,” the chef says. Hand-cut noodles similar to a pappardelle pasta with a homemade umami powder concoction created out of dried shiitake mushrooms and katsuboshi. And he promises no MSG, in a light dressing with pickled shimeiji mushrooms and nori.

It’s most definitely not your usual Japanese or Asian fare, but then again in this heat everything is happily distorted with the rose-colored glasses of summer. I really enjoyed the sunny flavors, the tartness, the small bites, the use of crab and pickles. It’s a great inspiration to work with for those of you cooking at home. Try your hand at something easy for summer with this crab kamameshi rice recipe he’s shared with us. Also please do visit my new travel lifestyle website I’ve recently launched with a friend —www.thegypsetters.net — where chef Him shares in the Food section his secret tips and favorite ingredients for the Asian summer kitchen. Stay hydrated, don’t overheat and if all else fails, lift up your shirt and expose your belly. I won’t judge; I promise.

Kamameshi rice with fresh crab,

kabocha, shiso and lemon oil

(Serves 4)

Ingredients:

2 cups Japanese white rice

1 cup diced Kabocha or pumpkin, about an inch dice

2 cups dashi

2 tbsps mirin

3 tbsps sake

1/3 cup light soy sauce

1/4 cup white sugar

1 cup picked fresh crabmeat

1 cup steamed edamame (take bean out from the pod)

3 tbsps shiso oil (optional)

Procedure:

Mix dashi, mirin, sake, sugar and soy sauce together. Wash the rice at least 3 times. Place rice, Kabocha and dashi mix in the rice cooker and let it come to a simmer.

In a bowl toss the crab with shiso oil and the cooked edamame. Five minutes before the rice is fully cooked, place on top of the rice and cover to finish cooking. Serve.

For the shiso oil:

1 cup shiso leaf

1/2 cup canola oil

2 tbsps. lemon juice

Blanch the shiso leaf in boiling water for 30 seconds. Shock in ice water and dry with a towel. Place in a blender and slowly pour over the oil with the lemon juice while it blends. Add a pinch of salt.