Tonkatsu by Terazawa: Not all tonkatsus are created equal

MANILA, Philippines -How many ways can you get excited over a piece of breaded pork cutlet dipped in a tiny bowl of sweet sauce? At the media launch of Tonkatsu by Terazawa in Greenbelt 2, Makati City, we learned that not all tonkatsus are created equal.

Some 20 years ago, Japanese chef and restaurant owner Akinori Terazawa made it his mission “to make the best tonkatsu in town.” That was in his hometown, Nagoya in Japan. Today, his restaurants can be found not only in Japan but also in Singapore, Malaysia and now, the Philippines.

Tonkatsu by Terazawa is the first Philippine franchise of the Japan-based chain brought to the country by the Bistro Group (the same successful company behind other popular restaurants such as Italianni’s, TGI Friday’s, Bulgogi Brothers, Krazy Garlik and Modern Shanghai). Chef Terazawa was in the country briefly (less than 48 hours) for the sole purpose of launching this latest addition to his expanding chain.

“Filipinos love anything fried,” Bistro’s AVP for marketing, Lisa Ronquillo, observes. “Also, tonkatsu is served with rice, which is the traditional way. So it is easier for the local market to embrace. Try it and taste the difference.”

It was Tonkatsu 101 at the media launch, where chef Terazawa shared tales, tips and trivia, even some trade secrets, as guests sampled a variety of katsus and other Japanese dishes.

It all starts with aging the meat, which is wrapped in white cloth and kept in the chiller for a number of days. Five to eight days gives the best result — meat that is tender and flavorful, says chef Terazawa. 

There are two cuts of meat that are used, either rosu (pork loin, with fat) or hire (lean pork fillet, without fat). Chef Terazawa shares that salt imported from Germany is used to season the pork, which is imported from the US. After all, we must remember that this dish was inspired by Western fare that, through the centuries, the Japanese have made distinctly their own.

Chef Terazawa uses nama panko, a kind of breading that has coarse, large flakes, producing a light, crunchy coating that is crispier to the bite. Canola oil is used for deep-frying. The good news is that panko does not absorb oil as readily as regular bread crumbs so the katsu you get on your plate is less greasy, if at all. And there’s a secret ingredient in the mix that chef Terazawa reveals: honey, and that’s all he’ll say. Well, it’s not a secret anymore.

Did you know that there is a prescribed way to enjoy your tonkatsu?  First, grind rock salt into the sauce bowl. Salt helps bring out the flavor of the meat. Pour about two to three spoonsful of tonkatsu sauce. Second, to enhance the fragrance, grind roasted sesame seeds, either into the sauce bowl or directly into your rice. Third, dip the meat into the sauce to add extra taste; this is also the traditional way of eating tonkatsu.  

Instead of tonkatsu sauce, it may also come with grated daikon and ponzu sauce, which is poured over it when served. All katsu sets are accompanied by refillable servings of Japanese rice and a bowl of hot tonjiru, a special miso soup flavored with pork. A generous serving of fresh, crunchy shredded cabbage helps cleanse the palate, while a side dish of tsukemono or pickled vegetables helps to stimulate the taste buds. And for those who like it hot, a dab of Japanese hot mustard can go a long way. 

For starters, you can have the Chasoba Salad, a refreshing green tea soba noodle salad.

Other dishes we were able to sample were the Jumbo Ebifurai, simply deep-fried imperial prawns, and the Kakifurai, deep-fried fresh oysters imported from Japan, which was easily the favorite around the table.

If you cannot make up your mind, try a little of everything with the Iroiro Katsu, a deluxe set of assorted katsu dishes (prawn, pork loin and pork fillet set; prawn, pork loin and chicken roll set; mixed katsu of prawn pork fillet and white fish; prawn and hire katsu set; and prawn and rosu katsu set.)

“We take pride in our Kurobuta  Katsu, which is packed with juiciness and is rich in flavor from the meat’s excellent marbling,” Ronquillo explains. “Kurobuta is said to be the Angus of pork. It comes from a special breed from Japan known as Black Berkshire. Our Kurobuta Katsu is 100 percent pure Berkshire pork.”

While the Japanese are not too well known for their desserts, the slice of Frozen Green Tea topped with a layer of meringue, which we had to cap our delightful introduction to Tonkatsu by Terazawa, did not disappoint.

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Tonkatsu by Terazawa is located in Greenbelt 2, Makati City. For more information, check https://www.facebook.com/TonkatsuByTerazawa. Follow on Twitter and Instagram @tonkatsuph.