Deliriously happy at the 2013 Penfolds

Earlier this month, I flew to Singapore literally just to eat — and drink. This May was a very hectic month for me, but when Singapore-based Treasury Wine Estates regional business manager Yodi Mootoosamy extended the invitation to the Penfolds Gala Dinner at the Capella Resort in Sentosa, I jumped at the chance — even if my schedule permitted me only 24 hours out of Manila.

It was the first preview of their 2013 releases in Asia to “experience the new release of our iconic Penfolds Bins and our Grange 2008, which recently got 100 points from Robert Parker.” Each of these new releases scored between 90+ to 100 points. Basically, if we were in school, these wines would be part of the star section, sitting high on the honor roll with the 2008 Grange proclaimed valedictorian even before graduation. I would be banging my head against the wall forever if I had missed out on this opportunity!

The first Asian preview

The ballroom of the five-star resort on Sentosa Island was bedecked in the Penfolds color, with red roses and runners as centerpieces for each table. Even Peter Gago himself, chief winemaker since 2002, voted Winemaker of the Year by Wine Enthusiast magazine in 2005, and recipient of the Winemakers’ Winemaker Award by the Institute of Masters of Wine and international trade publication The Drinks Business in 2012, remarked, “We do events around the planet but it’s been a long time since I’ve been in a room like this. It’s a beautiful space.” Apart from Gago, winemakers Andrew Baldwin, Adam Clay, Jamie Sachs and Ben Mehrtens also flew in from their native Australia for the special occasion.

“This, in my 19 years, is the strongest lineup of wines I have seen,” declared Andrew O’ Brien, Treasury Wine Estates general manager for Southeast Asia, India and Korea. “And you are the first in Asia to taste it.” 

The white wines of Penfolds

The 2012 Penfolds Bin 51 Riesling (91 points) paired with pass-around hors d’oeuvres prefaced dinner. The dry, Eden Valley-style Riesling (which has similar conditions to classical Riesling regions of Alsace and Austria) was floral, and had nuances of lime (a regional characteristic) and a natural acidity. “You cannot over-chill a Riesling,” said Gago. “It’s a great alternative to sparkling wine or Champagne.”

The smoked beetroot salmon topped with crème fraiche and salmon caviar was paired with the 2010 Yattarna Chardonnay (95 points). This one I was extremely excited about, first because I prefer whites to reds, and second, because Penfolds has always been so known for their reds that I was curious about this famous white wine that had been created to one day rival the standards of the Grange. The white gold chardonnay exceeded all expectations — lemon and white peach with nuances of nougat, a bit of acid, with a very subtle oak spice — 96 percent from Tasmania (“you go south for the linear texture in white wine) — 100 percent chardonnay and matured in French oaks. It is also one of the most expensive chardonnays I have had at SG$186 (around P6,137) a bottle.

The highly awaited reds

Earthy and mocha-like, the St. Henri Shiraz (93+ points) added a touch of spice to the muted consommé of supreme of chicken, foie gras, black truffle and porcini ravioli. The 2010 Bin 150 Marananga Shiraz (91+ points), a contemporary alternative to shiraz framed by a mix of oaks, and the “baby grange” 2010 Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz (92+), a beautiful blend of cabernet and shiraz fruits from seven regions throughout South Australia, were served with an oven-roasted spiced rack of lamb.

Australia’s most celebrated wine

The Penfolds Grange is arguably Australia’s most celebrated wine, which demonstrates the synergy between the shiraz grape and country’s soils and climates. It is officially listed as a heritage icon, and often purchased for investment. “The 2008 Grange is a wine we have been waiting to release; it’s usually released as a five-year-old,” explained Gago. “Tonight, we look at the 1998 Grange and look how these two go side by side.”

While all the wines were poured before us free-flowingly, the 1998 Grange was already portioned in the glass before it was set before the oven-roasted Wagyu tenderloin with sautéed foie gras. Why? Its availability is unfortunately limited to the Penfolds Museum and a few auction houses today. Leathery, structured, mature and hinting of apricots and plums, spice and soil, I was swooning.

It seemed like a bold move to pair it alongside a Grange 10 years younger. But the star of the night served in a carafe per guest by a parade of waiters, the 2008 Grange, had already received a perfect score even before its release, and was predicted to be one of the most in-demand wines of the year. Gago had the answer to my question: “The 2008 Grange offers an immediate familial link to the 1998 Grange, convincingly transcends both a decade and the transitional closure of a millennium.”

And it proved to be quite a match; it seemed like no time had passed. The complex nose of mulberries, spices, cloves, cinnamon, anise, and potpourri, framed by grainy tannins and acid, rounded off by a lingering opulent finish, was the reason Lisa Perrotti-Brown, MW gave it 100 points.

I was stuffed and ready to pop but could not resist the selection of compote, parmesan and Manchego served with orange chutney and paired with the 2010 Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon (95+), which revealed blueberries, mulberries, boysenberries and blackberries; and the aromatic and fine textured 2010 RWT Barossa Valley Shiraz (93+). The petite baked Pur Caraibe ganache tart was served with the Great Grandfather Rare Tawny, what my seatmate Tanya Netto described as “love at first taste.” It was the perfect way to call it a night.

By this time I was pretty sure I had put on a few pounds, but I didn’t care because I was deliriously happy. It was one of those rare dinners where every single wine served was excellent. Penfolds has been around since 1844, and part of the reason it’s become a household name with a multitude of awards is the passion that goes into making it. As my seatmate, winemaker Andrew Baldwin, best explained, “If you are looking for a career in money, you can’t be a winemaker. You need to enjoy what you’re doing. It’s a little bit of creativity — it’s not a (standard) recipe like making bread. For us, it’s about passion and believing in who you work for — source the right fit and the vineyards, and we can create 100-point wines.” Amen.

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In the Philippines, Penfolds is distributed by Future Trade Inc. Among the new releases, they currently have the 2008 Grange, 2010 Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz, and the 2010 Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon on hand. For more information, visit <http://www.futuretradeinc.com>. For more information on Penfolds wines, visit <http://www.penfolds.com>. More on Penfolds and their one of a kind re-corking clinic in the August issue of Lifestyle Asia magazine.

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You can reach me at http://www.twitter.com/cheryltiu or e-mail inbetweendeadlines@gmail.com.