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Holidazed in New York | Philstar.com
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Food and Leisure

Holidazed in New York

A TASTE OF LIFE - Heny Sison - The Philippine Star

New York’s Central Park in the fall is just an oh-so-romantic, tug-at-the-heart vision of beauty and splendor. I have, of course, seen it more than once. It’s just that one late November afternoon, I got to walk through it and was privileged again to have appreciated its beauty. Getting ready for winter, the leaves have left the trees, and even in the nakedness of the once green and verdant foliage, now barren in colors of brown, burnt orange and autumn gray, it still held its charm. The sight just made me kind of emotional and gave me goose bumps. Maybe I realized that I should take more time to stop and smell the flowers.

Jimbo, my lifetime friend, had a more pragmatic view of Central Park, having resided in New York for almost 24 years now. He told me that Central Park is a rectangular park right in the center of Manhattan. The long sides of the Central Park rectangle are Fifth Avenue on the east and Central Park West (which is an extension of Eighth Avenue) on the west. The short sides are 110th Street on the north and 59th street on the south (also called Central Park South). When in Central Park, one can see the skyline of tall buildings on the east, west and south sides. There are really no tall buildings on the north side. For him, it serves as a reliable compass to point him towards wherever he wants to go. So I assumed, if you look at it this way, from the vantage point of Central Park, you will never get lost in the “wilds” of the Big Apple.

Lady M Confections prides itself with creating the freshest and finest cakes and confectionery delights.


This is but one of my numerous wonderful experiences. Of course, a big part of it is gustatory in nature. During my latest trip to New York last November I was mainly there to visit my daughters Denise and Carmela, who are both studying there. It had been quite a while since I had seen them, and losing my dear mom recently has made me more anxious to see them and smother them with big hugs.

Arriving at a time when the girls were on holiday break gave us the opportunity to bond and catch up on stuff. Of course, I wanted them around me as long as I was there, so they happily hung out with me when I went to the famous Dean & DeLuca gourmet food store. I was looking for something to bring to a Thanksgiving dinner we were invited to that night (Nov. 22, Thursday) And I was sure I would find it in this enchanted emporium known for setting culinary trends with its vast array of gourmet items. Something caught my eye while browsing: a pig wooden carving that was designed to be a serving platter for paté or sausages. Would you believe it was made in the Philippines? No wonder it looked so familiar.  I ended up buying an assortment of breads to be paired with what I believe is Switzerland’s best export product, Tête de Moine cheese. Unlike many traditional Swiss cheeses, Tête de Moine — which means “monk’s head” — is a small, cylindrical-shaped cheese that weighs around two pounds. It has a gorgeous alpine milky taste I adore and its texture is semi-firm to firm. Along with it, I purchased a nifty gadget called the Girolle Cheese Scraper solely for use with the Tête de Moine cheese. You turn its lever to shape cheese into beautiful rosettes, which make beautiful and delicious appetizer or platter accents.

Star of the holiday spread: Daphne’s perfectly roasted turkey


Of course, every time I am in NY, I always look forward to visiting my personal Disneyland, Williams–Sonoma! Every time I step into this foodies’ paradise I feel like a seven year old exploring a Toys “R” Us store, checking out their latest wares and gadgets. The iconic establishment was dressed for their Christmas collection and the display of old and new kitchen gadgets was a dazzling sight to behold.

We celebrated Thanksgiving with my good friend Daphne Kuok in her cozy place in the Lincoln Center Area. For an intimate affair of direct family and close friends, we were actually a big group that night. My daughters easily found company among their age group with Daphne’s daughters.

One thing that is inseparable from Thanksgiving dinner is the traditional roasted turkey. But to Daphne’s dismay, the turkey was still cooking when the guests arrived. I learned that she had set the temperature to 200° F, which she thought would keep the meat tender and juicy, but because she was roasting over 15 lbs. it would surely take time to cook. She asked me what to do. I said she must increase the oven temperature  because generally speaking, the temp should not be lower than 325° F. Some turkey recipes use an initial temperature of 450° F, at which a 15-lb. turkey is roasted for 30 minutes and then cooked at 350° F for another 2 to 2.5 hours.

So we started with pasta with mushroom sauce and salad. Conversation flowed with good food and wine. Nevertheless, the turkey was not to be upstaged. It was served at the perfect time, just like the diva making a splashy grand entrance at the height of the party. The turkey was the star of the holiday spread, as it was the last of the main dishes to be served. And judging from the raves it received, it was indeed worth the wait, I had to say! Daphne did a good job. The turkey was roasted to perfection — moist, perfectly seasoned and not crumbly.

If I was running low on inspiration and ideas, my trip to the Big Apple refilled my tank to the brim. Everywhere I turned, every corner, nook and cranny was bursting with creativity and genius! Just imagine, the luxe Italian label of fashion accessories, Bottega Veneta, had just displayed their elegant fall collection. What is so innovative about that, you may ask. Well, their entire line is made of edible gum paste and fondant. And the attention to detail is simply amazing.

Oh, and Lady M had me at first bite! It took me the utmost restraint to be composed and cool as I dropped by the famous Lady M, known for its signature cake, the Lady M Mille Crepes. This divine creation features no less than 20 paper-thin handmade crepes layered with ethereal light pastry cream. Delicate and irresistible, the top is gently caramelized till golden.  Upon first bite, my defenses all broke down and I became more like a Lady Gaga, hooked and crazy over the sweet sensation that took hold of me. With each mouthful, the alternating crepe and cream layers literally melt in one’s mouth, leaving a subtle, sweet finish that lingers like a dream.

Lady M Confections prides itself on creating the freshest and finest cakes and confectionery delights. My personal favorite is the Green Tea Mille Crepes, 20 delicate, light-as-a-cloud thin crepes layered with pastry cream infused with green tea flavor. Dusted with fine green tea powder, it is a beautiful sight to behold as well as indulge in. Of French origin but married with the subtle sensibilities of Japanese taste, that for me is what makes Lady M’s sweet hits alluring. It is art, truly beautiful to look at; it is tradition, paying homage to the French’s revered recipe for crepes; it has the perfect taste, veering away from the sometimes-cloying sweetness of French pastries; and leans more towards the light and subtly sweet finish of Japanese confections. It’s a sugar rush without the coma! Of course, since I came in the season of fall, from Lady M’s lab comes Pumpkin Nuage crepes, their signature cake for the season that evokes images of blazing sugar maples, copper moons, jack-o’-lanterns and honeyed sunsets. Spectacular.

I will share with you more of my New York adventures next week.

 

 

vuukle comment

BIG APPLE

CENTRAL

CENTRAL PARK

LADY

LADY M

LADY M CONFECTIONS

MOINE

NEW YORK

PARK

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