Amici: Mismatched charm & authentic Italian flavor

The delicious Italian flavors of Amici — without the hefty Euro price tag — continue to make their mark around the metro with the opening of the latest branch at Piazza Venice, McKinley Hill, Taguig.

I still remember the first time my parents introduced me to Amici. We were driving by Don Bosco Church one Sunday afternoon in 2001 when they pointed out that there was a restaurant there run by the church that we should check out. I was intrigued. In school the next day (I was in high school then), I excitedly shared my “new” discovery with my classmates, a kind of “hole-in-the-wall” eatery with Italian food served and prepared by priests, printing-press laborers and former carpenters. It turns out everyone already knew about the place; it had been the talk of the town for quite some time.

Back then

Amici was founded in 1994 when Fr. Gianluigi Colombo, a Salesian Italian priest in charge of overseeing the operations of the Don Bosco Printing Press, was given permission by the Don Bosco management to set up a turo-turo cafeteria to support its employees. In 2001, it was legally established as a business entity, Amici Di Don Bosco, in order to serve the needs of the students studying in school.

This was about the time my family and I came to visit for the first time. You lined up by the counter with your tray and pointed to what you wanted to eat (literally, turo-turo). I remember our parents telling my brothers, sister and I to get our glasses, water and utensils, some of which we noticed were mismatched. But it was part of the charm, like we were dining in a neighborhood cafeteria. It had authentic Italian flavors but not with the expensive price tag. It was always full.

New owners

Fast forward to 2007. Amici was bought by the Moran family, led by Danny and Tessie Moran, and son Philip, previous owners of Red Ribbon. People spoke about how Amici had veered towards a slightly more upscale path with the new ownership. But the increase in price also translated into a broader menu, cozier atmosphere and no more of the self-service factor. It was now a real comfortable restaurant where you could walk in, sit down and have the food served to you.

Last July 28, Amici opened its seventh branch at the new Piazza Venice on McKinley Hill in Taguig City. It’s a comfortable two-story place, designed by architect Popi Laudico to look like an Italian immigrant’s home if he or she were to move to Manila.

“We made sure it wasn’t too organized,” says Philip, general manager and COO of Amici Foodservice Ventures, Inc. (AFVI), which also owns Caramia Gelateria. “Some of the chandeliers aren’t alike and the chairs, too. The furniture is mostly from thrift shops and some from my lola. Family pictures of the owning Moran family (including Philippine STAR’s Kathy Moran) are hung on walls “to give a homier feel,” explains the 33-year-old second-generation restaurateur.

The food, of course, has not lost its touch. Dishes are still reasonably priced and are very much conducive to sharing. While there are soups and salads for those averse to carbs, you really go to Amici for the pastas and pizzas. A personal favorite is the Spaghetti Ai Tesori del Mare, a simple and mildly spicy dish. No frills, no complicated ingredients but scallops and clams tossed in fresh tomatoes and chili oil. It reminded me of my first plate of spaghetti at a trattoria in Rome. The plating was simple, but the flavors spoke volumes.

The wood-fire-baked pizzas are beautiful with an ultra-thin crust that’s crispy on the outside and chewy inside. The Chorizo Portobello (chorizo, sausage and Portobello mushrooms) and Al Quattro Formaggi (mozzarella, ricotta, parmesan and blue cheese) are delicious, hearty and sure to satisfy any cravings. Caramia Gelato, also made by AFVI, is also available here for dessert. The sans rival flavor is a must-try. Bits of cashew meringue are generously mixed in with the smooth and buttery Italian ice cream.

Amici also supports Tuloy Foundation, to give street children a chance to have a better life (food clothing, shelter, basic education and vocational skills training, values and spiritual formation). By selecting special items from the Tuloy special menu, P10 will go directly to the Tuloy Foundation.

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Amici McKinley Hill is open daily from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m., and up to 11 p.m. on weekends. Amici is also located at Don Bosco, Makati; Tomas Morato, Quezon City; Greenhills, San Juan; SM Megamall Atrium; Ayala Triangle Gardens; and Alabang Town Center.

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